Wheel bearing loose in hub - suggestions?

[camchain]

Uh-Oh. Replacing front wheel bearings and bearing has slightly flogged out the hub. (Damn KTM girly-soft hubs) It's the left-hand side, looks like brake torque from disc went to town on it once it got loose.

Not that much play - guessing roughly a couple of thou, but still loose enough to be a problem. Easily hooked bearing out with finger and can see/feel a lip where bearing was moving.

Bought some "Fel-Pro" brand 'bearing retainer' (like loctite) but have never used this before. Considering peening(sp?) hub a little for a extra grip for bearing as well. Any other ideas or tricks to deal with this?

[sinfull]

Was gonna say a locktight bearing retainer, recon you should try that for a while and keep checking it, if it starts flogging out again it wouldn't be too pricey to have the hub machined out to fit a steel (or sim) sleeve which could be pressed in or locktight retained

[cheese]

I don't think that any glue product is really ever going to cut it. If it were me, I'd machine it out to the next size that works. Safest way. Bruger engineering probably could do it.

[Katman]

With a centre punch make three lines of indents around the inside of the hub. The indent effectively raises the alloy around the hole. Then coat the surface with Loctite bearing retainer and refit the bearing.




Edit: Works on shity old farm bikes anyway.

[tommorth]

loctite retaining compund is bloody strong stuff I mixed it with normal loctite to stop the cranks on a mountain bike coming loose due to buggered splines too a lot of beating with a large hamer to get it off again to change the sproket... may make it hard to remove the bearing again.....

[barty5]

Old trick we use to do works on old flogged gear levers as well where the spline has been chewed up. Take old beer can (fizzy drink can will work to ) cut strip that is as deep as bearing housing is cut to length so it fits once round refit bearing using loctite well help s well. with gear lever dont worry bout loctite. I told Evan (oldsckool ) bout this a good 6-8 months ago for his cr80 on the rear wheel and i think he still has it in there working fine.

[Crisis management]

What Katman said or if you want to do it better:

http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDu...ediSleeve.aspx

I've used these in serious industrial stuff (high pressure hydraulic aplications) and they do work but the dot punch & Loctite is an excellent first (and probably all you will need) step.

[cheese]

What Katman said or if you want to do it better:

http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDu...ediSleeve.aspx

I've used these in serious industrial stuff (high pressure hydraulic aplications) and they do work but the dot punch & Loctite is an excellent first (and probably all you will need) step.

Thats a brilliant idea that sleeve! I could have used one of those on my old RM!!

[camchain]

Thanks for the ideas gents, much appreciated. Not always best to jump in with first thing that pops into head.

Not much hub meat there for a sleeve but can't rule it out (thanks for link crisis). Would likely be best fix and better one to pass onto next owner too.

Got some shim (and a can!) so can have a play with that.

Just reading this through suddenly had thought of putting some nicks in bearing w die grinder so bearing lock might bite a bit better as well? If shim too thick what about a cigarette paper in there with bearing lock to beef things up?

[oldskool]

Old trick we use to do works on old flogged gear levers as well where the spline has been chewed up. Take old beer can (fizzy drink can will work to ) cut strip that is as deep as bearing housing is cut to length so it fits once round refit bearing using loctite well help s well. with gear lever dont worry bout loctite. I told Evan (oldsckool ) bout this a good 6-8 months ago for his cr80 on the rear wheel and i think he still has it in there working fine.

Yep did the trick, sure beats despoking/machining/respoking the wheel. Only problem was finding a Rheineck can like you recommended. Wall thickness was ideal to fill up the gap. I never tried your suggestion of degassing an impulse spray bottle and cutting out the diameter tho, mainly because I don't use the stuff.

[barty5]

Yep did the trick, sure beats despoking/machining/respoking the wheel. Only problem was finding a Rheineck can like you recommended. Wall thickness was ideal to fill up the gap. I never tried your suggestion of degassing an impulse spray bottle and cutting out the diameter tho, mainly because I don't use the stuff.

haha good one you know i would have used a Jd'S can