Transalp project

[DR650gary]

I would be nervous about riding with that cracked disc. Are you sure that is a break in the fairing, looks like a deep gouge to me. Either way, if you want spotless it will be a repaint whatever you do. You would be wise to get it welded, if it is a break, as any other repair will eventually fail. If suitable for a stripe there, you could put some glass sheet on the back and fill the gouge with a fibreglass filler and then stick the stripe on, but it looks a great bike so will look nice if welded, filled and painted.

Just my thoughts.

[buggsubique]

The other shot shows the crack in the fairing from previous owners adventures. I'm wondering whether just squirting a bit of glue in might stop more cracking.

Anybody tried crash-knobs on a Transalp? Not sure where the best place to attach them would be. Maybe on my knees and elbows? Better still just not fall off I guess

Engine Bars. Get Engine Bars. They're not very heavy.

I've got a few cracks I need to tend to so am about to start frigging around with plastic repairs. The fairings are likely ABS (black under the paint) and while you can get abs "welding" rods to use in a plastic welder, a lot of guys use acetone or plastic model glue (you know the sh*t that melts plastic).

The idea with the acetone is to liquefy ABS offcuts in it to make a runny goo of ABS and use it to backfill a crack or reinforce a crack on the rear side of the fairings. sand yer paint off and prep the area first, spread the gunk in, the acetone evaporates out of the mixture over a few days and the whole lot is bonded...not stuck together, but bonded structurally.

Oops, gotta go, the kids are outside squirting acetone at each other...

[CRM]

I would be nervous about riding with that cracked disc. Are you sure that is a break in the fairing, looks like a deep gouge to me. Either way, if you want spotless it will be a repaint whatever you do. You would be wise to get it welded, if it is a break, as any other repair will eventually fail. If suitable for a stripe there, you could put some glass sheet on the back and fill the gouge with a fibreglass filler and then stick the stripe on, but it looks a great bike so will look nice if welded, filled and painted.

Just my thoughts.

Yeah the fairing is definitely cracked - there's one on the other side too. I'm not too concerned about spotless otherwise I'll be too careful with it. This bike is for fun not pretty. But neither do I want big ugly repair marks. Maybe I'll check out the cost of having it professionally done and repainted but that's not really in the budget

[CRM]

Engine Bars. Get Engine Bars. They're not very heavy.

I've got a few cracks I need to tend to so am about to start frigging around with plastic repairs. The fairings are likely ABS (black under the paint) and while you can get abs "welding" rods to use in a plastic welder, a lot of guys use acetone or plastic model glue (you know the sh*t that melts plastic).

The idea with the acetone is to liquefy ABS offcuts in it to make a runny goo of ABS and use it to backfill a crack or reinforce a crack on the rear side of the fairings. sand yer paint off and prep the area first, spread the gunk in, the acetone evaporates out of the mixture over a few days and the whole lot is bonded...not stuck together, but bonded structurally.

Oops, gotta go, the kids are outside squirting acetone at each other...

Sounds good - I hear it smells good too

[DR650gary]

Yeah the fairing is definitely cracked - there's one on the other side too. I'm not too concerned about spotless otherwise I'll be too careful with it. This bike is for fun not pretty. But neither do I want big ugly repair marks. Maybe I'll check out the cost of having it professionally done and repainted but that's not really in the budget

The repair cost won't be excessive but will leave a black weld line, it's the painting that will cost. If you can score a cheap replacement use that until you can afford the paint cost. Unrepaired they usually grow.

A fractured disc could solve the whole problem.

Cheers

[CRM]

The repair cost won't be excessive but will leave a black weld line, it's the painting that will cost. If you can score a cheap replacement use that until you can afford the paint cost. Unrepaired they usually grow.

A fractured disc could solve the whole problem.

Cheers

Haha. Planning on changing that shortly before I do a ride with the wife in the weekend. Just hoping my dirt-bike stand will fit under the Tranny's big belly

[Skinny_Birdman]

I got the Givi engine bars for both my 650's, they aren't too bad for weight, and I think they improve the appearance of the bike, tho that's pretty subjective. D's Tranny came with an aftermarket centrestand, which rocks but alas the engine bars mount to the centrestand mounting point. After the DB I intend to do some modifying so that it can have both (and if I can make it work I'll get myself one).

[CRM]

I got the Givi engine bars for both my 650's, they aren't too bad for weight, and I think they improve the appearance of the bike, tho that's pretty subjective. D's Tranny came with an aftermarket centrestand, which rocks but alas the engine bars mount to the centrestand mounting point. After the DB I intend to do some modifying so that it can have both (and if I can make it work I'll get myself one).

What sort of cost are the Givi's? They do look okay. I would like a centerstand too so maybe someone does a combo?

I changed the rear disk yesterday. I managed to get my dirt bike lift stand under it okay without jacking it up - perfect with a little prop under to side-stand to stop it falling over onto the car.

Changing the disk was the easy part but I couldn't get the pins out to change the disk pads with my basic allen key set - need ones you can put on a wrench handle I suspect - really tight . So just running with the existing ones at present as they have plenty of life in them - they do recommend you change both at the same time but not sure if that's just a way to sell more consumables.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Givi bars are ~$220 a set. Conneyr has offered the use of his welder, grinder and eye-ometer to try and re-kajigger the stand and bars - I will let you know how we get on. SW Motech do engine bars, centrestand and bash plate, but make sure you have your wallet handy cos you won;t get much change from $1000AU.

[Skinny_Birdman]

After both Transalps got tired and had a lie down on the Dusty Butt, I have discovered that the Givi bars on both bent over so that they touched the fairings, marking the paint (although not crushing the plastic as I had first feared). They were easily bent back into shape, but it has given me pause for thought, and might make you reconsider their merits. TimG has Touratech bars on his 'Alp, it would be interesting to hear his opinion on those. They look, um, serious, extending up as far as the headlight! He also has lots of other nice bling including an SW-Motech centrestand.
I also made a rather immediate and permanent modification to my 'orrid Givi screen. TimG has kindly offered me his stock jobbie as a replacement.

[CRM]

After both Transalps got tired and had a lie down on the Dusty Butt, I have discovered that the Givi bars on both bent over so that they touched the fairings, marking the paint (although not crushing the plastic as I had first feared). They were easily bent back into shape, but it has given me pause for thought, and might make you reconsider their merits. TimG has Touratech bars on his 'Alp, it would be interesting to hear his opinion on those. They look, um, serious, extending up as far as the headlight! He also has lots of other nice bling including an SW-Motech centrestand.
I also made a rather immediate and permanent modification to my 'orrid Givi screen. TimG has kindly offered me his stock jobbie as a replacement.

Sounds like it was a lot of fun... Mine's been sitting still for the past week and a half apart from a trip to a cafe at the beach with the wife and some friends on their cruiser

Still thinking through my options and doing a bit of research over protection bars.

[warewolf]

Changing the disk was the easy part but I couldn't get the pins out to change the disk pads with my basic allen key set - need ones you can put on a wrench handle I suspect - really tight . So just running with the existing ones at present as they have plenty of life in them - they do recommend you change both at the same time but not sure if that's just a way to sell more consumables.

Pad pins tend to seize especially if they are the screw-in type, so use some copperslip-type lube on them, and the caliper mounts if they bind as well.

Check your pad pins for wear, replace as necessary. I'm due to replace the rear pads in the LC4 for the first time now, the beach racing finished them off! The pad pin looks like a crinkle-cut chip! So it'll be replaced... should've actually done it sooner, but didn't think the pads would last this long.

[Old Grant]

I recently traded a 06 for a new 09 700. I thought I would miss the 21"front on the grave but I hardly notice the differance. I imported a set of Hepco and Becker engine guards for the new bike and a set of pannier frames from the same manufacturer. I have tried several differant tyres on both bikes and now would not use anything other than Mitas EO7. They are cheap, good on and off the road and wear well. The Transalp is a very underrated bike in New Zealand, very comfortable on road and not to be underestimated off it.

[Skinny_Birdman]

I waved Blue'Alp goodbye last week. Its new (old) owner has plans for it (perhaps he will elaborate, hmmmm?), so look out for another Transalp project..... It was great adv bike for me, an awesome first big bike for D and a pretty sweet commuter as well, and it took us everywhere from Cape Reinga to Dunners over the three years. It must have been good, 'cos I owned it longer than any other bike I've had.

[Transalper]

Yee ha... I'm a Transalper again.

It's paint is crap and the crash bars are a bit marked up etc etc but ideally it would look something like this attached pic when I'm done
Pic from the www.twistedthrottle.com/
But it's going to be a long road and I'm not sure if I'll end up with original looking paint or something simpler and easier to touch up.
Centerstand would be nice but how do you tell if you bike was meant for US or Euro market? Seems the centre stand fist one but not the other. Speedo is in miles so I'm thinking US? Twisted throttle talks about a bar underneath one but not the other. I'll look later.

The alloy SW moto bash plate could be on the wish list too, but after the paint I suspect.
Seat re sculpting and a new cover is on the list as well.