Help with KTM clutch binding

**K6K** · 12th January 2011, 17:52

My 2010 clutch has had a clutch binding problem for quite a while now. When I pull the clutch in it does not fully disengage the clutch. When it is in gear you can feel the bike trying to pull slightly, it doesn't start well in gear and it has some trouble idling in gear when stopped. It is very hard to push in gear with the clutch in. The bike has done over 100 hours and I am pretty sure it didn't do this from new but I don't remember when it started or if it started gradually. I do know that many bikes do this, especially when cold but most bikes are fine when heated up. I had an issue during a race last week where the oil cap came off and I lost most of the oil so I had to inspect for any damage. While I had it apart I wanted to try and sort this binding issue. I tried the following to resolve:

1: I pulled the clutch this week and replaced the springs, steels and friction plates (the friction plates and springs were just under minimums but there was no slipping). I suspected the steels or plates might have been slightly warped causing the problem but after putting it back together the binding is still there.

2: The inner and outer clutch hubbs have minimal grooving or notches

3: I replaced and bleed the clutch fluid - no change. I think the clutch is disengaging fully...the pressure plate only moves out a short way ( a couple of mm maybe) but there is no free play in the lever at all. After holding the lever to the bar when I release the clutch starts engaging immediately.

4: The clutch still binds without the pressure plate in place - just placing the steels and fibres in the hubbs without retaining them at all and it is difficult to turn in gear. If I put half the fibres and steels in it still binds (not as bad but still difficult to turn the rear wheel).

The bike is now back together and I think I will have to ride it as is this weekend (desert storm). The bike is fully ridable, it is an annoyance more than anything but I would like to find the cause.
Any other KTM's with similar problems? does your bike free wheel easily when in gear with the clutch in or is there binding (to a greater or lesser degree than my issue)?
Any ideas what to look at next?

**dafydd roberts** · 12th January 2011, 18:34

If you want help from a dealer who has a speciality in KTM clutches give me a pm and I'll give you some info.

**Rupe** · 12th January 2011, 19:10

have you tried another ktm300?

**Jinxycat** · 12th January 2011, 19:27

using OEM oil?

**K6K** · 12th January 2011, 19:30

Originally Posted by Rupe

have you tried another ktm300?

Not really, I last rode Steves '11 a while ago but didn't think about it at the time. I've been compensating for it for a while now so I dont think about it too often. I'll have a look at some others at Desert Storm if I cant find the cause beforehand. My current theory is the inner hub is slightly out of alignment with the outer hub. I've seen some posts saying that the inner hub 'floats' slightly to allow for alignment on the needle bearings. When the clutch was disengaged and I was pushing the rear wheel I noticed a very slight movement in and out in the pressure plate. There is stuff all room for the plates to rotate with the clutch engaged (1 or 2 mm of clutch travel divided between 17 fibres and steels) so if it is slightly out of alignment then that will take all the available room.

**K6K** · 12th January 2011, 19:35

Originally Posted by Jinxycat

using OEM oil?

No, OEM specs 15w/50 4T oil and I am using Motul transoil expert. However I don't think it is the oil as the symptoms don't change between hot and cold oil.

**Rupe** · 12th January 2011, 19:39

have you had the clutch apart before?

**K6K** · 12th January 2011, 19:51

Originally Posted by Rupe

have you had the clutch apart before?

No first time on this bike

**andy 101** · 12th January 2011, 19:51

My 250 does the same thing and it has been getting alot worse over the past year to the point where the plates are now sticking together when i put it in gear,the oil ktm recomends only makes it grab even more, i am using atf fluid that helps a bit,I have changed plates and friction disks bled the clutch every ride and filled the basket as well,there are alot of ktm owners who have the same problem, maybe a new basket may fix it maybe not.

**flyingcr250** · 12th January 2011, 19:57

could the push rod be worn? my '08 did that alot

**D3ALN** · 12th January 2011, 20:19

have heard Doing a trail ride with hy tran oil then going back to reccomended can help

**K6K** · 12th January 2011, 20:22

Originally Posted by flyingcr250

could the push rod be worn? my '08 did that alot

I dont think it is the push rod, to look at it every thing looks mint. You can see minor impressions from the steels on the inner hub and faint marks from the fibres on the outer hub, but no real wear. I have just pulled it down again to check the inner hub again, I was going to pull the basket but I don't have a 27mm here at the moment so I'll have to grab one tomorrow.

**flyingcr250** · 12th January 2011, 20:33

Originally Posted by K6K

I dont think it is the push rod, to look at it every thing looks mint. You can see minor impressions from the steels on the inner hub and faint marks from the fibres on the outer hub, but no real wear. I have just pulled it down again to check the inner hub again, I was going to pull the basket but I don't have a 27mm here at the moment so I'll have to grab one tomorrow.

pick up some petrol and some matches while your at it........just incase

**Brian d marge** · 13th January 2011, 04:15

Theres not a lot that can go wrong on a clutch

are you Sure the plates aren't warped? and the push rods and throw mech aren't worn ? as plates only separate by about 1/2 a mm roughly

How about the handle bar lever , any wear in the pivot ?? if you add up each bit of wear , you may be surprised!
anyway look for the simple things first , warped and those notches , file those back for a start !!!

Also ATF , I use this on all my bikes , you can get about 2, or 3 rides out of it before it needs changing and it does help , ( DONT USE FRICTION MODIFIED )
Flex in the rod , throw mech?

Stephen

**K6K** · 13th January 2011, 16:07

I pulled the basket, checked everything and reassembled and now it is much better. After I warmed it up and did a test ride I cant really notice the binding while it is running (which was the major issue) while it is cold I still get some binding but overall it is much, much better than before.

Now I've found that my kick starter spring has gone, I don't know how the spring can snap or break but I must of taken some sort of hit in the Root 100 race going up the Doc track that knocked off the oil cap and broke the kick starter spring!

good thing I have the estart button...

Cheers for help and suggestions

Kel