Uber simple HUD reminder thingy

**crash99** · 25th February 2011, 22:13

Originally Posted by jonbuoy

Red for shift light, green for indicators, yellow for top gear?

Now THAT's a good idea!

**Reckless** · 25th February 2011, 23:56

Originally Posted by jonbuoy

Red for shift light, green for indicators, yellow for top gear?

If you wanna to get really flash you could have six shift lights, one for each gear your in!! LOL!!

Oh Btw my ole 78 Z1R has self canceling indicators I spent so many years on it I can't bloody remember to turn mine off on the modern bike!! DUH!!
Dunno how they work but they work really well too, time delay when stationary and moving.

**bogan** · 26th February 2011, 09:33

Originally Posted by jonbuoy

Red for shift light, green for indicators, yellow for top gear?

I'd stay with yellow for indicators (cos it's yellow anyway), and not sure how difficult it is to find out whether you're in top gear if it doesn't have that from factory... shift light should be doable though, and that light could be multifunction with the oil warning light too.

**jonbuoy** · 27th February 2011, 04:36

Originally Posted by bogan

I'd stay with yellow for indicators (cos it's yellow anyway), and not sure how difficult it is to find out whether you're in top gear if it doesn't have that from factory... shift light should be doable though, and that light could be multifunction with the oil warning light too.

I think the aftermarket gear indicators use a feed from the tacho and speedo to calculate the gear the bikes in.

**Ocean1** · 27th February 2011, 08:25

Originally Posted by bogan

not sure how difficult it is to find out whether you're in top gear if it doesn't have that from factory...

Originally Posted by jonbuoy

I think the aftermarket gear indicators use a feed from the tacho and speedo to calculate the gear the bikes in.

Yup, on most FI bikes the transducders are already there. Bet they've all got the same flavour output too.

Originally Posted by bogan

shift light should be doable though, and that light could be multifunction with the oil warning light too.

Oil pressure needs a signal more likely to get your attention and get the engine shut down immediately. It's a stand-alone output anyway, I think it justifies a seperate remote channel.

**Aristocat** · 2nd March 2011, 19:46

I'm very keen investigating these options. My primary requirement is radar notification; currently I have a Bluetooth transmitter connected to the 3.5 output of the radar detector, and a Bluetooth receiver in my helmet with a 3.5 headphone socket, and some headphones plugged in which are permanently mounted in my helmet. I have my detector set to only detect Ka, so I don't necessarily need to differentiate between different sounds - i.e. one notification light would be sufficient, so long as it was noticeable enough. Reason I say this is your solution might not be capable of transmitting sound?

The Bluetooth transmitter and receiver batteries are rechargeable via USB. They last OK, but not a full long ride, so if I could get better life I'd be happy. Don't care if they're not rechargeable; or if I have to carry a pocket full of spares; just don't want it going flat during riding. Ideally the transmitter would be powered from the bike's 12v. The detector is currently a Beltronics 945.

Secondary requirement: The idea of notifying me about indicators is great; I'm also OCD about pressing the button all the time around town in case I left them on. Don't care about a delay; just something to say they're on is good enough.

If you can provide me with a solution then I'm happy to pay for it; and know of a few others that would as well.

**bogan** · 2nd March 2011, 20:03

I think this is a great idea, don't think it would add much complexity. No extra drain on the helmet unit except when the LED comes on, and the transmitter unit / sound detector would run from the bikes 12v supply so no worries there. May be possible to distinguish between different sounds if they are pretty standard across all radar units, otherwise I don't think it'd be worth it. Standard circuit board, standard code, but slighty user configurable is the way to go here I reckon.

**CookMySock** · 3rd March 2011, 09:54

How to cancel a running indicator? The switch is mechanical and requires a firm push-off from the operator.

It wouldn't be hard to have a picaxxe or similar monitor the clutch and neutral switches and figure out if the bike is moving, stationary in neutral, stationary with clutch in, and decide how to handle each situation.

I'd be keen to replace the entire indicator system with a controller and super-bright LED strobe indicators. The controller can PWM-dim the strobes...cough I mean indicators, when in "normal" use, and then go full-brightness and use a really obnoxious strobe pattern for when the situation, er, requires it. The system would be WOFable but really useful in GTFOTW mode.

**bogan** · 4th March 2011, 19:06

Batteries for the helmet unit are proving difficult, was hoping to use a lithium coin cell, but the max discharge rate of 0.2mA is a bit far from the ideal 20mA. Any ideas? don't really want to go up to a AAA size...

**jonbuoy** · 4th March 2011, 19:16

Originally Posted by bogan

Batteries for the helmet unit are proving difficult, was hoping to use a lithium coin cell, but the max discharge rate of 0.2mA is a bit far from the ideal 20mA. Any ideas? don't really want to go up to a AAA size...

Rechargables? Could have a socket to recharge/power on the move - really not sure why Shoei/Arai haven´t teamed up with a bike manufacturer to come up with something like this - would be easier if you had a compartment to fit it all in, needs to be dimable for night time use as well - either auto/manual dimming.

**bogan** · 4th March 2011, 20:25

Originally Posted by jonbuoy

Rechargables? Could have a socket to recharge/power on the move - really not sure why Shoei/Arai haven´t teamed up with a bike manufacturer to come up with something like this - would be easier if you had a compartment to fit it all in, needs to be dimable for night time use as well - either auto/manual dimming.

starts to get a bit on the bigger side if i go rechargeable, or small enough but needing recharging every day or two. Found some zinc air coin cells which may do the job, need three and it pushes the price up a few bucks, but coin cells mean I should be able to get away with a molded plastic coating, rather than a proper case, so still cheaper than AAA in the long run. Thanks for the dimming tip, good plan.

**jonbuoy** · 4th March 2011, 21:27

Would say Lipo as they come in some small and flexible sizes you could tuck in the lining, but you don´t really want to have a charging or short circuit fault with a Lipo tucked against your cheek.

If you can get the current consumption low enough you could go rechargeable coin cells and a flexible solar panel on the helmet to keep them topped up, you would be pulling the most current when the LEDS are flashing which won´t be often in the cycle.

**bogan** · 6th March 2011, 17:58

drew up a pcb for the reciever, about 30x60x7mm, bout half of it is batteries, included an on-off switch to save power too.

For the transmitter side I'm thinking

red=shift light (rpm adjustment by a trimpot, either trim and use a multimeter to set, or trim while revving the snot out of it)
yellow=indicator warning
blue=noise on 3.5mm jack detected, for radar scanners etc
green=general purpose

and have a second input for all of them too, so 2 active high and 2 active low, so if you don't want a shift light, you can wire in a oil warning light, you could wire in both anyway and figure out that if it wants you to shift at idle, it may be an oil issue!