Chains again

**twisty** · 22nd February 2011, 08:07

I use chain wax before most rides, I suspect it's not as a good a lubrication as sticky chain oil but at least it doesn't create grinding paste. I give the chain a hosing occasionally if I'm cleaning the bike anyways.

**Howie** · 23rd February 2011, 21:46

Well I just changed the orginal chain and sprockets on my KLR after 31000km, It's had 2 front sprockets in that time, and the orginal back sprocket, and chain. Have used a scott oiler on it since new, and probably 60/40 sealed vs gravel or worse.

I probably could have got a few more thousand km out of it, but was starting to show signs of being near the end of it's life and I have a trip south planned in a couple of days.

**Waihou Thumper** · 26th February 2011, 09:12

I just finished putting on a new chain and front/rear sprocket. That was fun.....
I wondered why my chain wouldn't feed onto the countershaft sprocket. I had put it on the wrong way A lesson learnt, don't do it at 0600, wake up first...
I used the joining link as that is all I have. Do you guys rivet or use joining links?
I have had both, no issues on either. I figured if the manufacturer provides one in the box, it is meant to be used and should be okay....
I hope to see at least 15-20000Km this time as I have steel and a EK Gold X Ring chain, but we will see.
I also put new rear pads on, the original Brembo's - half worn. I put on new red Premiers, they look great, but for how long.

**george formby** · 26th February 2011, 09:23

This thread got me thinking. I am doing a lot more gravel roads now & the chain builds up a hefty coating of grinding paste on a ride. Bearing in mind on an o ring chain the grease sealed on the inside is supposed to do the work is any body using a dry or non adhesive lubricant on their adventure bikes like graphite or silicon?

**dino3310** · 26th February 2011, 09:50

im using the 'Muc-off' chain lube. it goes on wet but dry's very quickly.... no mess. seems to be working well

**Tony W** · 26th February 2011, 18:39

The chain manufacturer's instuctions on my x ring chain packet say " use 80w gear box oil ". 25,000 km and no discernable wear. Trust the packet.

**CookMySock** · 26th February 2011, 18:54

Plastic bottle + bits of nylon 3mm hose = jury-rigged loobman oiler ~~ works okish, certainly miles better than the manual method, and nothing could be worse than the shit in a can that is sold as a useable solution.

**warewolf** · 26th February 2011, 20:02

Lubing road bikes is easy. Any regular application of something of even modest lubricity with anti-rust properties does the job, and you'll get outstanding life from a modern chain. Spray can (chain lube or WD40), "loose" oil, auto- or manual- oiler... whatever.

Dirt & adventure is a whole other kettle of fish. This last chain I've used cooneyr's method of clean/lube with w40/crc556, unless doing extended road miles (ie 100km without dirt) when it gets a squirt with legit chain lube as well. Managed 15,000km from this chain although it's been poked the last thousand or two... which is actually more than acceptable. My satisfaction/value point was 12,000km. That includes quite a few trail rides, cross-country racing, and a generally high proportion of adventure-trail rides... naff all tar touring.

**Woodman** · 26th February 2011, 20:31

I use chanibar lube every now and then, it sorta sticks, but when you go for a ride it cleans the chain somehow.
Between doses of chainbar lube I use crc or wd40. I run a fj series superbike x ring chain which doesn't seem to stretch at all, and its gold coloured

Occaisionally use brakleen to clean it. Brakleen does not harm rubber brake seals/boots etc so shouldn't harm chain o rings. And the pressure is good.