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Thread: tyre dilemma..

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quasievil
    Yes Yes ya beat me by a milli second
    That's alright - you beat me with the profile thing (deleted it from my post).
    I don't think mixing the profiles is that big a deal, but mixing brands and types can get a bit weird. The profile shape does make a big difference though - a triangular-ish profile means the bike tips in quick, but can feel a bit insecure when leaned over, depending on how rounded the shoulders are. I've had three lots of sport-touring rear with sports front profile, and it works well, because the tyres wear out evenly and you get the quicker turn-in and extra grip in the front, with good wear in the rear.

    On my VF500 it never had anything other than mixed tyres. Started off with a Metzeler front and horrible oversized IRC rear, then went to a Avon rear, then Dunlop front (horrible triangular tyre, with bad headshake), then a Metzeler front again (quite round in profile). The Avon was very hard, and was on the bike for about 4 years, still on when I sold it.
    I don't think the mix'n'match thing mattered that much though, as the wheels were too - 16" front, 18" rear.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  2. #17
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    Get BT014s. They're easily as good, if not better than an Diablo.
    Vote David Bain for MNZ president

  3. #18
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Pedantic note, cos I'm a pedantic shit sometimes.

    Dropping/raising the forks in the yokes won't completely compensate for a change in tyre diameter. It will restore the head rake angle, but the fork trail and effective rolling diameter will still be different. Whether you'd notice a difference between 65 and 70 is another matter.

    Also you can't compare two different brands on a sizing basis. One manufacturer's 120/70 might actually have a lower effective rolling diameter than another manufacturers 120/65. You need to check the manufacturers specs and get the actual rolling diameter.

    Pedantic mode off. And I'm probably totally wrong and talking shite anyway. I got really into this stuff decades ago and learned heaps about it, and now I've forgotten it all, cos I figured it was easier just to learn to ride better than mess about with the bike geometry
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
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  4. #19
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    13th January 2005 - 11:00
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    nah, you make sense Ixion, don't worry..
    Just talking to a racing buddy now, he was saying that the 65 to 70 won't be a huge jump (like 60 to 70) so I should be ok and not notice much, so I can deal with it until the summer and I get a decent pair matched. This '70' tyre is the same brand as what I have now, I have an 012 and this is an 011. He said that cos of the extra rotation, it might get a little more twitchy at speed (at which point, I'd be doubling the speed limit and then some, so won't be a problem), but the turn in would be a touch more grippy..

    thanx for the concern tho

  5. #20
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    sorted for now:
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...on-29415821.htm

    That should have enough left on it to last the same as the back tyre, then they can get done together..

    thanks guys

  6. #21
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    A few people have gone from 60 series to 70 on R6's to calm down the steering. I'm not sure that the effect will be the same with Kwakas, but I suspect it will.
    Speed doesn't kill people.
    Stupidity kills people.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lou Girardin
    A few people have gone from 60 series to 70 on R6's to calm down the steering. I'm not sure that the effect will be the same with Kwakas, but I suspect it will.
    huh.. interesting.. I thought it'd be the other way, cos the 60 has/should have a softer curve over 70s..

  8. #23
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    What tyre

    Michelin make good tyres....

    Sorry couldnt resist

    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  9. #24
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    19th November 2003 - 18:45
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    I pretty much only have mismatched tyres as well. The mo i have a diablo corsa i think on the front and a 014(which I got for a bargin, visit CYCLETREADS!) on the back. I find my fronts always wear real triangly and they start to tip in real fast once all the tread on the sides has worn away!

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugjuice
    my front tyre is wearing thin,
    the proof of wheelieinability?

    sorry...sorry....couldn't help it.

    This thread reminds me that my front has no more thread and I need that new 014 too.....pronto
    (or 012SS? )
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marmoot
    the proof of wheelieinability?

    sorry...sorry....couldn't help it.

    This thread reminds me that my front has no more thread and I need that new 014 too.....pronto
    (or 012SS? )
    surely it'd be lack of, wouldn't it...?? keepin the front wheel up..??
    it could be for stoppies, but I can't really get much higher than an inch or two, but I'm not trying for those just yet
    and don't say sorry!!!

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugjuice
    it could be for stoppies
    LOL, nice comeback.
    Elite Fight Club - Proudly promoting common sense and safe riding since 2024
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  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugjuice
    surely it'd be lack of, wouldn't it...?? keepin the front wheel up..??
    ever seen a jumbo land with a big cloud of rubber? Deaths front does similar if the front has been up a while and slowed down a bit, poof of blue smoke when it lands

  14. #29
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    Pilot Power... for ya set tho

  15. #30
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    If you want the real cheap option, wait till after this weekend, and ill sell ya my Supercorsa Pro SC1 120/70 REAL CHEAP!!! Im not joking... i will...
    See Robert Taylor for any Ohlins requirements www.northwest.co.nz
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