Eddieb's DR build thread.

[Eddieb]

Got some garage time today.

As the FCR is running way too rich I dropped the needle 2 notches to see what that would do. It needs completely rejetting but in the meantime anything that leans it out a bit is bound to be an improvement.

Also I recently picked and fitted up a Pro Moto alloy rear rack. The rack I previously had fitted must have been made in a dodgy jig or something as the mounts didn't line up well at all, and the topbox couldn't be mounted far enough back so was overhanging the rear seat which made it awkward to take pillions.
At the time I put the Pro Moto rack on I didn't have the grab rails on the bike or with me so today I pulled everything off and re fitted the grab rails, again so things are more pillion friendly.



Lastly I fitted a Torpedo 7 hour meter/rev counter recently but it hasn't been picking up the revs properly so I rewired that, I'm still not sure it's working though.

[NordieBoy]

I'm going to drop a 150 main in and lower the needle to 1 from top and see what happens...

[Eddieb]

I'm going to drop a 150 main in and lower the needle to 1 from top and see what happens...

Are you running the MX-Rob 155? Mine runs sweet on it but economy is ~16km/l.

[NordieBoy]

Are you running the MX-Rob 155? Mine runs sweet on it but economy is ~16km/l.

As far as I know, it's...
EMP needle 4th clip down + 0.5mm shim.
#40 Leak jet.
40 pilot jet.
155 main jet.

18-20km/l

[pete-blen]

Lastly I fitted a Torpedo 7 hour meter/rev counter recently but it hasn't been picking up the revs properly so I rewired that, I'm still not sure it's working though.

]

I have one of those... The re-fresh rate is to slow for any thing other than
constant rpms... Ok for finding out what rpms yer doing while cruseing
on the road...

[Eddieb]

I have one of those... The re-fresh rate is to slow for any thing other than
constant rpms... Ok for finding out what rpms yer doing while cruseing
on the road...

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

[GSers]

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Hey Eddie what does it use for its pick up for counting the RPM. You could try wrapping a length of wire around the spark plug lead about 15-20mm long as in coiling it around the lead and using that for the pickup maybe worth a try.
GSers

[Eddieb]

Hey Eddie what does it use for its pick up for counting the RPM. You could try wrapping a length of wire around the spark plug lead about 15-20mm long as in coiling it around the lead and using that for the pickup maybe worth a try.
GSers

Funnily enough thats what it uses, though not that long. The instructions said 5 loops around the lead.

[pete-blen]

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Have you got it set right... I think yer need setting 01 ??? for a single that sparks twice..
your bike also sparks on the ex stroke as well as the power stroke..

[pete-blen]

opps... double post

[Eddieb]

Have you got it set right... I think yer need setting S2 ??? for a single that sparks twice..
your bike also sparks on the ex stroke as well as the power stroke..

I'll have to have another look at it, I didnt see any buttons or anything to change settings

[NordieBoy]

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Sounds like it's doing a divide by 2...

4stroke or 2stroke version?

[pete-blen]

mine has 2 buttons on the front.. marked S1 & S2...
Hold S1 for 4 secs..will bring up 3 settings 01 , 02 , 03 , 04
for diffrent fireing pattens...

01 = plug fires twice per revolution..
02 = plug fires once per revolution..
03 = plug fires every other revolution...
04 = hour meter..

Edit...
just had a look at T7 one..diffrent to mine.. no buttons..
think they sent you a 2 stroke one..

[Eddieb]

I'm going to drop a 150 main in and lower the needle to 1 from top and see what happens...

If you're not happy with the 150 FCR jet and want to shift it on I may be interested in it. My airbox was cut open when I got the bike but I opted for a hopefully more maintenance friendly setup where there's a hole about twice the size of the snorkel hole with a slope down over the filter so that dust is directly toward the side wall, so my bike is probably running even richer that others.

Edit...
just had a look at T7 one..diffrent to mine.. no buttons..
think they sent you a 2 stroke one..

Yep looks like it, just looked at their return policy and it'd cost what I paid for it to send it back I think.

[GSers]

If you're not happy with the 150 FCR jet and want to shift it on I may be interested in it. My airbox was cut open when I got the bike but I opted for a hopefully more maintenance friendly setup where there's a hole about twice the size of the snorkel hole with a slope down over the filter so that dust is directly toward the side wall, so my bike is probably running even richer that others.

An opened up air box will make the bike run leaner a standard airbox or restricted will make the mixture richer as will an oil soaked air filter element as apposed to a dryer element. Gearing will also make a big difference to your mixture requirements. Higher road gearing will require a richer mixture and lower off road gearing the mixture can be leaned down.
Sometimes what you are feeling can be deceptive. A to leaner mixture will mean that you are actually holding the throtle open wider that is actually required to get any go out of it and using more gas and a way to rich mixture can pop and carry on giving the symptoms that it is actually running to lean.
Just had a look at the YZ manual and they run a 162 main jet so on a 650 a 150 jet maybe to lean.
What throtle opening are you running at when you are crusing and using to much gas.
The pilot screw /pilot jet has a major effect from iddle to 1/8 throtle and then tappers of to 1/4 throtle. The throtle valve cutaway starts taking over from 1/8 throtle to 1/2 throtle. The jet needle starts from about 1/3 throtle to 2/3 and then the main jet kicks in from 2/3 throtle to full song of course they are overlapping through the hole range and then you also have the richening effect of the accelerator pump and your overide enrichening device to stop the popping on overrun.
Dont make to many changes at one time because you wont know which change had the most effect. Setting carbs when transplanted from another machine / engine can be a time consuming business and remember that your engine must be up to operating temperature each time you are making a comparison. Oil takes about 8kms to get to normal operating temperature.
If you dont have any luck once my shoulder is fixed and you fell like a ride up this way I could reserect my airfuel ratio meter in the shed and help you sort it out.
GSers