A number of us here and in Aus who have the FCR carbs are using a jetting setup put together after much testing by MX-Rob in the US, who pioneered fitting the DR with the FRC39 carb, however it turns out on proper NZ fuel it's too rich. Rob's setup is designed for a fully cut open airbox and pipe and it would seem on E10 fuel. The bikes run but economy is shocking. I'm currently returning 16km/l where a well setup FCR should return 19 minimum.
Phreaky Phil and a bunch of Aussies have been testing using seat of the pants and wideband tuning and everyone has come up with new settings by their own methods that have turned out to be are very close to each other.
MX_Rob vrs Kiwi/Aus Riders
Main Jet: 155 vrs 150
Pilot jet 40 vrs 38
Leak jet 35 vrs 35
Idle fuel mixture is generally accepted as at least 1.25 turns out, mine won't idle at all unless the screw is less than .75 of a turn, and at .5 it idles not too bad, on the FCR it's a fuel mixture screw, not an air mixture screw.
My bike is piped but doesn't have the fully cut airbox, As I'm after a balance of performance and maintenance I've opted for about 1/4 cut and a slope to protect the air filter so mine would be sucking in less air than what the MX-Rob jetting is designed for.
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Yep so you havent said how much throttle opening that you are using for highway crusing.
If you have the std / what everyone is using pilot jet and you have to turn the pilot adjustment in so that it is 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn out from fully in then you have trouble with your float level / needle and seat you will need to check these. Sounds like the float is to high.
Usually if you hold up the carb body with pivot point for the float at the top and the float hanging with the needle in against its seat the float should be parralell with the body of the carb I will see if I can find a measurement for the FCR.
The idle screw would usually be between 1 - 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed this is pretty std on most carbs.
As for the main jet that is only half of the equation you have to remember that there is a needle that goes through the centre of the orifice that this jet feeds there are several different needles that are listed in the yamaha manual. That is not only that they have different tappers but also have different diameters for the parralell part or the top of the needle altering the clip position alters where and at what position of throttle opening the the needle changes from the parralell part of the needle to the tappered part all affecting fuel economy and perfomance.
As for E10 fuel
QUOTE Today, E10 is sold in every state. In fact, more than 95% of U.S. gasoline contains up to 10% ethanol to boost octane.
The Octane Rating of E10 is 94 but normally with ethanol / methanoll if you run it straight you use twice as much to get the same bang for your buck so with a 10% mixture you would probably need a slightly bigger jet than say if you where running on straight 95 petrol.
Good luck with getting it sorted. I doubt that your air box setup will be affecting your settings as any restrictions are usually associated with hard acceleration from idle and full song. Only one other thing you could look at is if your snorkle is out in the main air flow and pressurising the airbox at open road speeds then the vent for the fuel float chamber must have the same air pressure applied to it.
Its to do with atmospheric pressure applied across the surface of the fuel in the carb pushes the fuel through the jets given they have vacuum on the intake side.
Check the float level.
GSers with to much spare time.
Highway cruising at 100km I'm using probably about 1/3 throttle I think, I'll need to make a note of checking next time I'm out on it.
Float height for the FCR when fitted to a DR is accepted at 9mm, it is possible I've got that wrong as I did forget to double check that before I fitted the carb.
I did different parts of the jetting and setup months apart while waiting for parts to arrive. It's a bit of a dog to check due to how much needs removing to get the carb out.
There's lots of discussion going on with needles, there doesn't seem to be any decision on what works best overall yet.
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On the way home from Cold Kiwi I did North Range Road, it was a bit wet.
Dropping the needle 2 notches has improved my fuel economy from ~16km/l to about ~18km/l on the open road.
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Dropping the needle 2 clips just before the Cold Kiwi trip moved the Fuel Economy from ~16km/l to 18km/l. I've now picked up a 38 Pilot and 150 main jets so I'll fit those this weekend. I pulled the carb last Sunday and checked the float height. it was about 6mm so I have now adjusted that to 9mm. I also want to check the pump setup as i think I may have that going off a little late.
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Yeah sorry Eddie, didn't get back on that one. Float height on all FCR is 9mm thats a big difference at 6mm I would reset the float and try it before changing the jets again.
If you think about it with the carb up the correct way and imagine the bowl full of fuel the level will run across not far below the hole that the needle sits in 3mm higher and it would be just about running out into the venturi.
You should probably find the idle adjustment will be closer to spec.
Good Luck
GSers
Nordie, did you fit the 150 main jet to your FCR?
I have fitted the 150 to mine and lifted the needle up 2 slots to the central slot. I'm happy with how it's responding on the jet. A test run, on closed roads of course, saw the bike run up to an indicated speed about 20km/h faster than what it would do when the 155 was in there.
I also fitted the 38 pilot at the same time and I'm having similar issues with getting the idle sorted as I did with the 50 pilot, though I've not had time to play with it much.
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I'll have to pull it apart some time and see what's in there.
I think it's mxrob's settings but with a #40 instead of #35 leak jet.
18-19 km/l.
I'm pretty happy with the 150 main. I've been tinkering trying to get the idle sorted but the bike runs smoothly throughout the rev range off idle. I came out of my sisters place today and was putting along at idle in first gear then opened it up and the front wheel came right up off the ground really easily. Big grins all round!
Aside from that I've fitted the DRZ 2540 cartridge forks after Box'a'bits gave me ,ots of assistance rebuilding them a few weeks ago. They are a big improvement but I am getting a sort of oscillating pogo effect at about 50-60km/h. It's not doing it at faster speeds. I've started with all the adjustments all the way out. Any ideas what it needs to address the pogo'ing?
I documented the forks over on ADVrider: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=842073
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Balance the front wheel.
GSers
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Not enough sag. Too much preload.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
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