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Thread: How do you keep your goggles clean?

  1. #1
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    15th February 2006 - 15:25
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    How do you keep your goggles clean?

    Ok, this may be the dumbest question out but not many have accused me of being smart so here goes...
    I don't ride much in rain and yesterdays Riverhead ride reminded me why...I can't see a bloody thing after 10 minutes.
    Now some of this is down to old age and slightly dodgy eyesight but once I get a film of water on the goggles it gets really hard to pick the lines and miss the obstacles which is somewhat important in the likes of Woodhill & Riverhead (most of my riding is single track so there is a lot of fine detail you don't want to miss).
    I've tried removing the goggles and apart from the rain impact on the eyeballs there is just too much stuff to jamb into your eyes (toi toi, branches etc) for this to be safe. Before you start the wussy thing I've had to stop and remove a branch that entered the front of the helmet , slid down my cheek and exited past my neck. I don't want one of those in my eye.

    So, how do you keep your goggles working? Tear offs etc seem a bit environmentally unfriendly so another solution would be nice. I'm all ears.

  2. #2
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    roll off's are the only thing that work in the rain, but prep them well as if water gets under the film they are horrible as well,

    Tear Offs are all but banned for most off road racing, and even getting banned from more and more motocross events

  3. #3
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    31st March 2007 - 09:43
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    mentioned this in a similar thread some time ago... a mate used to swear by cutting the mesh out of a sieve to replace the lens. He said your eyes adjust quickly to focus past the mesh. Looked like he had bug eyes, but no problems with rain

  4. #4
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    14th January 2006 - 23:37
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    Hole shot, I get to the front, at the start, Im so far back I don't have that problem
    I just pull the string I have roll off's, as scott said, you have to make sure water/mud don't get under the film.
    Why would you ride that long and that gnarly stuff if you don't have to, Its what we do, we love it.
    Nathan Woods R.I.P.

  5. #5
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    Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. After that, who cares? ...He's a mile away and you've got his shoes

  6. #6
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    Ok, roll offs it is, I see a visit to a bike shop in my future, thanks guys!

  7. #7
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    31st August 2009 - 21:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs363 View Post
    Pro grip lenses have a raised strip so you dont have to piss around doing this

  8. #8
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    11th January 2010 - 04:48
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    When it's wet I make sure I carry a couple of pairs of $5 safety glasses from Mitre 3. They don't tend to fog up as much and are easier to wipe down, especially if you're trying wipe wet sand off your expensive goggle lenses. Plus you can grab yellow lens safety glasses, for darker conditions (never found yellow lenses to improve low-light vision myself though).

  9. #9
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    26th July 2004 - 15:34
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    Nice tip on the safety glasses, must go get some.

    The yellow-lens thing is a wierd one, it seems to work better when it's getting towards proper dark, not just a bit dim. Something to do with human eyes working most efficiently in the orangey-yellow part of the light spectrum (the same reason they use those crappy orange sodium street-lights - more perceived light per watt of electricity) and when it's dark your iris opens wider to let in more light. This causes problems trying to focus different wavelengths of light onto your retina through the enlarged iris (photographers: feel free to chip in here about aperture & depth of field). So if broad-spectrum white light reflects from a few places at night, more of it will be out of focus than if it was bright daylight. The French used to make everyone drive around with yellow-tinted headlights/bulbs for the same reason.

    The physics makes sense, but it takes a while for people to get used to, meaning the full advantage may not be realised before you crash...

    Or something.
    BM-GS
    Auckland

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