Hmmm... inspiration for my airhead.
Don't blame me, I voted Green.
Lucky it is not alone.
The latest, separate the axle block from the upper at the weld and machine the parts to take 20mm Showa cartridges then jig alignment and rewelding.
The cartridge tube was shortened so internal Wirth progressive springs could be used.
Very interesting, I have a set of 1955 BSA A10 forks which I'm wondering what to do with, they have no damper rod at all from factory and a cartridge conversion is something I'd be interested in but was quoted about 2.5k
I have read about people doing this but I haven't seen pictures before
These Moto Guzzi forks seem to follow many older designs including from Brit bikes.
There is a hole in the stanchion tube that allows flow into the cavity between the top fixed bush and the one on the end of the stanchion, that small hole giving some damping.
The internal spike (that I cut off) at the bottom has a slight taper and close fit in the lower bush retainer to act as some form of hydraulic restrictor at full travel. (I opened its ID as far as possible for the 22.5 mm OD cartridge body from a 1997 VFR750 and hope there will be no oil flow restriction (OD to ID)
The main consideration is the ID of the stanchion (27 mm ID on these 35mm OD fork stanchions) to get the cartridge in there, these ones with the stock shim bodies are known to have a flow restrictions at the ports so can be harsh on big hits but should be OK on this old tourer)
What is common on older Brit bike forks is the Eddie Dow type mod that gives some damping, the rod attaching to the top fork nut.
They sound exactly how the A10 fork is internally
I've looked at the Eddie Dow damper rods, but I want something better
This is what I was told about fitting cartridges to them
"FRONT FORKS Cartridge kits are not an option because the internal bore size of the tubes is too small and even if we could squeeze some in there would be a massive change in oil level from full open to full closed position. This also means very high velocity for the oil and this incites cavitation very very quickly. To even have a hope of working properly the tube i.d needs to be a minimum of around 34mm. Believe me we have a lot of data and hardcore experience re same"
The forks worked nicely.
On to the next mod, Tri-Spark introduced a new ignition for the later model Moto Guzzi's with the twin point distributor.
That distributor could be used in an earlier engine if its lower drive gear is swapped to the later unit but only if the generator has been replaced with an alternator for the needed space.
I retained the Bosch generator (rebuilt) but want that ignition but it will not fit inside the earlier single points distributor by around 7 mm ID so only one thing to do, machine a new body so it will fit.
Hopefully finished by the week end and will retain the distributor cap, old school on the outside, digital ignition hidden for the most part.
Finished...
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