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Thread: new tyres

  1. #16
    Join Date
    3rd September 2004 - 08:51
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    05 iHornet 900
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    Westham
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    Not intending on sabotarging your thread here Scooterboynz but...
    could you outline the rule of thumb.
    Increase rear or reduce front will slow the steering.
    Decrease the rear or increase the front will make it quicker.

    Is that correct ?
    My aged stead is running 100 front and 120 rear.
    When cornering I have to keep reverse pressure on the bars to get around without the bike standing up again.
    So corner left push on left bar/pull on right bar.
    So my bike is therefore a slow steerer ???

    Tis just that if I could change something I'd like to be able to reduce the pressure required on arms... Any thoughts ?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    13th February 2004 - 06:46
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    Forza 155 SE Pit Bike
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    Talk of "190s" having a bigger contact patch is true, in a straight line. I've been using 180 section Metzeler Racetecs for the past 8 months and have never had an issue with straightline grip.

    Edit: The 180 actually has a bigger "leant over" contact patch

    The only tyre that I believe will out perform it any dry situation is the Michelin race tyre. (Not sure of the name)

    Difference being, Metzeler race tyres are the same price as their road tyres. The others aren't. Rear Racetec will cost ya $300, front $230. You'll never want more grip.
    Vote David Bain for MNZ president

  3. #18
    Join Date
    8th November 2004 - 11:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warr
    My aged stead is running 100 front and 120 rear.
    When cornering I have to keep reverse pressure on the bars to get around without the bike standing up again.
    So corner left push on left bar/pull on right bar.
    So my bike is therefore a slow steerer ???
    That's just normal countersteer. In saying tho, your XJ is not exactly a modern sprotsbike so steering geometry will be utterly different
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    20th August 2003 - 10:00
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    'o6 Spewzooki Banned it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warr
    Not intending on sabotarging your thread here Scooterboynz but...
    could you outline the rule of thumb.
    Increase rear or reduce front will slow the steering.
    Decrease the rear or increase the front will make it quicker.

    Is that correct ?
    My aged stead is running 100 front and 120 rear.
    When cornering I have to keep reverse pressure on the bars to get around without the bike standing up again.
    So corner left push on left bar/pull on right bar.
    So my bike is therefore a slow steerer ???

    Tis just that if I could change something I'd like to be able to reduce the pressure required on arms... Any thoughts ?
    Try raising the forks in the triple clamps by 5 mm, it might help.
    Speed doesn't kill people.
    Stupidity kills people.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    12th June 2004 - 23:15
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooterboynz
    spoken to says run a 180 rear , hmmmmmmm not sure what to do ?
    I only run 190 on the Gixxer. It came out with it so I recommend you stick to it. The 190 is a very different tyre to the 180. Pilot Sport for me.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    23rd February 2005 - 12:39
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    2004/vn1600b-mean streak/ KLR650..09
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    christchurch
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    tryes

    I had a zx12r ran dunlop sportmax and have them on my bike now[dif specs] bloody brillant, actually best I hav ever had .Good milage max grip, like glue

  7. #22
    Join Date
    12th January 2004 - 12:00
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    '87 CR500, '10 RM144
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    'Kura, Auckland, Kiwiland
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    Hmmmm,the old 180 vs 190 thing again.....
    This will always fuel arguments,but here goes.....Your bike will turn FASTER with the 190,but it will lay over quicker and easier with the 180.
    You will also have less tyre on the road at full lean with the 180(unless you run a race tyre,different profile),but more at a medium lean.....
    Try the new Dunlop 218's I'm stoked with mine.
    Drew for Prime Minister!

    www.oldskoolperformance.com

    www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )

  8. #23
    Join Date
    8th January 2005 - 15:05
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    I just bought tyres, did a lotta reading and asking people who know. The best two bits of advice I came across were as follows:

    It doesn't matter so much what bike you ride, what's imoprtant is how you ride it. The more honest you are with yourself about how you ride, the better service you will get from your tyres.

    It's not so important what brand you use so long as you have faith in them.

    You pays your money and you makes your choice.
    Having said that I'm amazed at some of the shite you guys are using :-)
    There is a grey blur, and a green blur. I try to stay on the grey one. - Joey Dunlop

  9. #24
    Join Date
    2nd February 2005 - 13:41
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    600RR3
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    Auckland
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    Check out the tyre test on www.superbike.co.uk for the model of tyre.

    Pretty comprehensive, for the tyres that they cover at least.

    I can't beleive how much quicker the fast guy was on the racetecs, wow! Actually I kinda can, just touching those things after my mate's been riding hard on them...if you keep your finger on them too long it'll probably sink in. Not sure about the mileage, but if you really don't care...
    ...

  10. #25
    Join Date
    25th October 2002 - 12:00
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    Old Blue, Little blue
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    Just replaced the excellent Z6's with Michelin Pilot Powers.
    Fuckin Great!
    “- He felt that his whole life was some kind of dream and he sometimes wondered whose it was and whether they were enjoying it.”

  11. #26
    Join Date
    19th March 2005 - 21:45
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    Zeex12r & Er6rrr
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    the shed
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    Thumbs up tyre choice

    a popular choice is running a 190/55/17 pirelli sc1 tyre. just need to heat and bend the rear hugger to allow for the bigger tyre. run pressure at 36 psi. alot of zx10r around here run that and like it.
    why do black tyres on a black road produce white smoke?????

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