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Thread: Torque Settings for Head

  1. #1
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    2nd May 2005 - 15:31
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    eek Torque Settings for Head

    Does anyone know the torque settings and procedure to get the head off a 1991 Kawasaki KX80? Do they have chrome sleves? Cheers
    Ride it likes it's stolen.

  2. #2
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    30th May 2003 - 21:22
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    I have found (and a mechanic has said) for a small single cly 2/ motor, the Torque settings arn't too important if you can't find them. I have taken the head and barrel off my 150 lots of times, and just tighten it up to what feels snugg. Just don't tighten or lossen one bolt fully at a time, but put pressure on (or off), all the bolts in a way that keeps even pressure on the head. And do one bolt this side, one bolt that side, one bolt back over here, etc to stagger how the pressure comes on/off. Not just go right round the outside of the head from right to left. (Clear as Mud?)
    Works for me anyway.
    Racey.

  3. #3
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    Cool as, thanks for that. About to do it, will post back soon.
    Ride it likes it's stolen.

  4. #4
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    29th September 2003 - 12:00
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    Yep,what he said.
    I never used a touqe wrench on my two strokes,mainly coz' I never had one.
    I think the bores on your bike are Nickasil lined.

  5. #5
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    Cool

    Thanks for that. Whats Nickasil? Can I still rebore the sleve? Cheers
    Ride it likes it's stolen.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryaz
    Thanks for that. Whats Nickasil? Can I still rebore the sleve? Cheers
    Nikasil, Aluminum impregnated with Nickel

  7. #7
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    I'm not sure about that,I think they just give them a very light hone an replace the rings.
    Nikasil is similar to chrome just a hell of a lot stronger and harder to damage.
    I've heard about major piston damage that didn't cause any damage to the Nikasil bore.
    But you'd be better off asking a shop I think.

  8. #8
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    Don't know the torque settings,but never rotate more than about 180 deg from stop to stop,or till neck pain occurs.

  9. #9
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    Okay, do you know if it can be re-bored? Cheers
    Ride it likes it's stolen.

  10. #10
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    I took the gearbox side cover off, and everything look alright (keeping in mind I've never seen inside one before) but there was nothing broken etc. If there was something broken in it, would it be obvious? Cheers
    Ride it likes it's stolen.

  11. #11
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    Just got back from town, the Kawasaki guy said that the con rod rollers are gone...lol

    I guess this is going to cost me approx $150 if I did the labour myself? Needs new bearings and rollers and con rod apparently, is this right?
    Ride it likes it's stolen.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryaz
    Okay, do you know if it can be re-bored? Cheers
    No.
    New barrel, or if yer lucky it's got a press-in sleeve.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryaz
    Just got back from town, the Kawasaki guy said that the con rod rollers are gone...lol

    I guess this is going to cost me approx $150 if I did the labour myself? Needs new bearings and rollers and con rod apparently, is this right?
    Uh, be aware that replacing a roller big end on a built up crankshaft (which it sounds like you're talking about) is not a job for the fainthearted. You have to split the crank, press out the crankpin(honking big press needed), then reassemble and align, which needs a set of trammels and a DTI and a LOT of patience (and that big press again)

    You may also need to get the crank assembly rebalanced.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryaz
    Just got back from town, the Kawasaki guy said that the con rod rollers are gone...lol

    I guess this is going to cost me approx $150 if I did the labour myself? Needs new bearings and rollers and con rod apparently, is this right?
    Did anything let go?
    Is the cylinder surface damaged at all?
    If there's no obvious damge you'll prolly not need to replace more than rings.
    Take the barrel, piston and rings into your dealer and get him to measure gaps.

  15. #15
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    speaking of torque settings - helped a mate put the head back on his audi on the weekend - torque head bolts to 45ft/lbs, then tighten a further 180 degrees! fuck they were tight.

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