I get a small puff of smoke out of my XS1100 upon starting (178000miles)
but the amount of oil is so small, that I have not needed to top her up between oil changes.
I more important thing to look for IMO is a leaking seal around the gear lever,
a very easy fix, and the only place on an XJ that I know off that could be an issue.
From talking with other IL4 yammy owners, aside from FJRider, they concur with this.
How long has this XJ750 been sitting?
To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.
Then the oil burning will subside with more useage
I would strongly advise you change the brake fluid , 2 years sitting it can absorb a lot of moisture.
Also change the hypoid oil in the diff and middle drive.
you should also find a grease nipple just in front of the diff on the torque tude, ( left side of swing arm)
pump a bit of grease into this, as it lubricates the drive splines and the ""throw"" lubes the universal joint as well over time.
To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.
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						Can't complain about Yammie IL4s, had an XJ900 that I traded in when it had clicked over 250000. Oil was being used, but not to the point of worrying me.
Then again I had a GN250 as a first bike that managed serious distances as well, albeit without the urgency of anything that came after it.
Nowadays, GSX750F, HID headlight conversion, Scottoiler, hot grips, touring screen and all ya gotta do is fuel up and go. Quite easy to run 1000km days without trying too hard.
Yeh I recko that would cover the important items...especially the scottoiler on the XJ...
But yes, some wind protection, warm hands, a reliable bike, good lighting added to a comfy seat and riding position and away you go. You should probably have a small carrier or panniers to cary a bit of gear...and I alway tote 5 to 10 L gas, so somewher convenient for that...Good gear to keep dry and something to prevent that first dribble of rain down the neck is important
The "luxuries" then include heated vest and if you wanted to be really decadent...heated socks....but that is getting a bit girly for a tough biker.
I went, I saw, I liked. Only issues I can see is not operating nutureal light, not well repaired fairing, tank could do with external paint and it has new Shinko tyres.
Nice bike but a little rough. I would be very happy to own it though. Nice guy selling it, hes got a collection of 70s bikes.
Now find some coin.....
Agree it might only be the bulb, but it also could be just a wire off the sensor
which is located under the frame on the left side of the sump pan, very easy to get at,
Had a similar problem, replaced sensor, fixed problem,
The Shinko tires are OK for that bike, I have used them on my xs11's for the past 7 yrs, with no worries.
Sounds like you are getting a good deal to me.
To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.
My guess is neutral sensor, wire is off and when you earth it the light stays on.
No offer yet, checked the finance deal I was offered and again the intrest rate is huge. Stupid thing is I want to pay it off by May next year but they charge big pay off fees.
Will see what I can work out next week.
Somebody on the auction is saying carjam says the bikes done 200+ks, ive read the report. Im happy with the ks.
The sensor is basically a switch accessible under the left side of the bike,
It is probably a multi fit unit for a range of Yamaha models and thus probably rather cheap,
But most likely the wire has come off of it.
Shenkos have improved in quality over the past few year, and there has been much discussion about them on this site,
Do a search and read the comments before discarding them.
I believe that they are the new Yokohama, and are now being used for track racing, but I could be wrong on that point.
As for a spare set? wrong size for the XS11's
To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.
When I first had the lights fitted I was running 4 light switches controlling lights, which was bloody nuts. I still have the same switches but more for turning them on and off, but a relay is fitted, so when flicking the high switch, it goes from low (HID low and 2 big spots on low) to high (HID low, +90% bulb high, 2 big spots on high and 2 smaller spots). One switch controls the switch, much easier and safer all round when dealing with oncoming vehicles.
Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
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