Is it too much to move from a 250 to 1000 right after getting fulls?

[dangerous]

I don't know much about suspension. Are there any new 1000cc bikes that come out with "bad" suspension?

well not so much as bad but the 2012 gsr750 for example has no adjustments what so ever I was more refering to correct set up for the rider, eg take LilM and her R6 when she 1st got it, incorect set up for her 54kg body (set for some fat arsed prick) and whilest on the track it sent her straight into the concrete wall, and I will add she knows how to handle a bike with such power.

Does the thread starter know how to set up a bikes suspension corectly to suit himself?

[Sliver]

this has so much responce you should have made it a poll

[DrunkenMistake]

If your on a Hyosung GT250 the obvious step up would be a GT650, same ergos, similar feel, but way more horses, why a 1000? you'll kill yourself in no time, it only takes one wrong moment of giving in to temptation on one of those beasts when you are a noob.

The obvious step up is never the step up people want to take,
I dont pick my bike because it's then next obvious step up,
But Bluebird has a point, you wanna be looking at a V4 400, like an NC30 or CBR 400, even an older model CBR 600, not enough kick to make your tonsils become your balls when you twist the grip, but enough to give your nuts a real good tickle, especially after coming of a Vtwin 250, your 250 hyo has about 30 hp at the crank, my old CBR 250 was what.. 40 - 45hp at the crank and when I had it on a Dyno it was 38.8 at the wheel, so that alone is a significant difference to your twin, wrap that up another 20 hp at the wheel and your looking at a well used VFR 400 NC30 so thats almost double what your 250 can put out, thats the best way that I can put it to explain what I mean by a tickle in your balls.

[Nastrond]

With the experience with bikes that the OP has, suspension set-up will not come into the equation unless he is going to give it some round a track.

On the road he will come no where near to testing the suspension set-up even if it has not been set up for him. Most important will be the right attitude and sheer concentration to keep 160 plus HP rubber side down

[mossy1200]

Just get a MT01 1670cc.

88hp
0 to 100 in 47 secs

Do you think your desire to live over rides the stupidity of your right hand wrist?

If it does buy what you want.If it doesnt keep your 250 till it does.

[gatch]

With the experience with bikes that the OP has, suspension set-up will not come into the equation unless he is going to give it some round a track.

On the road he will come no where near to testing the suspension set-up even if it has not been set up for him. Most important will be the right attitude and sheer concentration to keep 160 plus HP rubber side down

Suspension will be sorely tested when he grabs a big ol handful of brakes mid turn, or backs off the gas mid slide..

[dangerous]

With the experience with bikes that the OP has, suspension set-up will not come into the equation unless he is going to give it some round a track.

On the road he will come no where near to testing the suspension set-up even if it has not been set up for him. Most important will be the right attitude and sheer concentration to keep 160 plus HP rubber side down

Suspension will be sorely tested when he grabs a big ol handful of brakes mid turn, or backs off the gas mid slide..

farking aye... it has everything to do with it reguardles of speed' one little bump at 60k can upset the bike specially of the calerbra we are talking, of course to an experanced rider it would be unnoticed.

[skippa1]

the fact that the question has been asked may be the best indication that the op is not ready

[Nastrond]

Just get a MT01 1670cc.

88hp
0 to 100 in 47 secs

Do you think your desire to live over rides the stupidity of your right hand wrist?

If it does buy what you want.If it doesnt keep your 250 till it does.

Suspension will be sorely tested when he grabs a big ol handful of brakes mid turn, or backs off the gas mid slide..

If he grabs a handful of brake mid turn at speed he's fucked whatever the suspension set-up is. Same goes for chopping the throttle mid corner. In both these situations the main player in saving the rider would be quality tyres. If you go too hot into a corner the best thing to do is apply more lean, not brake and and try and ride it out. Unfortunately for newer riders the outcome is panic and they try to stand the bike up and we've all seen the outcome that this could bring.

As far as suspension set-up is concerned mine is set for roughly someone who weighs around 10-15 kg's more than me cause I prefer it on the firm side. A lot of older bikes don't have adjustable suspension so they have to suite riders over a vast range of weights. You just have to ride within your capabilities and the capabilities of the bike you are on. The main thing is that the suspension is not shagged. As I said and I stand by it, is that under normal riding conditions (legal highway speeds, suspension set up is not overly important. On the track, it's crucial)

[Nastrond]

farking aye... it has everything to do with it reguardles of speed' one little bump at 60k can upset the bike specially of the calerbra we are talking, of course to an experanced rider it would be unnoticed.

If a rider unsettles a bike at 60km and can't handle the outcome, he/she shouldn't be riding it in the first place. These bikes are fantastic machines but they can end your life in heartbeat.

At highway speeds "under 100km per hour" the result in loss of control after hitting a bump is more likely to be a sudden twist of the throttle followed by panic

[p.dath]

If he grabs a handful of brake mid turn at speed he's fucked whatever the suspension set-up is. Same goes for chopping the throttle mid corner. In both these situations the main player in saving the rider would be quality tyres....

Can't say I agree with that statement.

Applying the front brake mid-corner makes the bike stand up and the most common consequence when it goes wrong is that the rider looses control and rides off the outside of the corner, or rides wide and hits an oncoming vehicle.
I'd suggest that only a very tiny minority of loss of control accidents going around a corner on the road are the result of a front wheel wash out from over braking in a corner. And apart from that case, "quality" tyres aren't going to make any difference.

Chopping the throttle mid-corner destabilises the bike. Often causing the bike to change its line. Sure, a small number of cases on the road (and I mean small) could cause a loss of traction, but on the whole, "quality" tyres will make no difference to the direction the bike will now be heading in.


No matter how much you paid for your tyres, you are not going to be saved by them (expect for in a very very special cases) on the road from using too much front brake or chopping the throttle mid-corner.

[Nastrond]

Can't say I agree with that statement.

Applying the front brake mid-corner makes the bike stand up and the most common consequence when it goes wrong is that the rider looses control and rides off the outside of the corner, or rides wide and hits an oncoming vehicle.
I'd suggest that only a very tiny minority of loss of control accidents going around a corner on the road are the result of a front wheel wash out from over braking in a corner. And apart from that case, "quality" tyres aren't going to make any difference.

Chopping the throttle mid-corner destabilises the bike. Often causing the bike to change its line. Sure, a small number of cases on the road (and I mean small) could cause a loss of traction, but on the whole, "quality" tyres will make no difference to the direction the bike will now be heading in.


No matter how much you paid for your tyres, you are not going to be saved by them (expect for in a very very special cases) on the road from using too much front brake or chopping the throttle mid-corner.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but your agreeing with a lot of what I have said.

Braking mid corner as you say makes the bike stand up as you say and also the rider thinks that the bike may slide and his reaction is to stand the bike up rather than leaning harder making it run wide. This happens with a small amount of brake. When I replied to the earlier thread a fistful of brake was mentioned.

A little trail braking is good if you are confident and know how much to use it.

Tyres and grip are everything. Its what keeps you on the road and you need the grip for harder leaning

Your quote: No matter how much you paid for your tyres, you are not going to be saved by them (expect for in a very very special cases) on the road from using too much front brake or chopping the throttle mid-corner. 'Thats what I said a fistful of brake or chopping the throttle"

This explains it better than me. http://www.motorcyclephilosophy.org/...st-corner.html

[gatch]

Tyres and grip are everything. Its what keeps you on the road and you need the grip for harder leaning

No.

What keeps your tires in contact with the ground ?

EDIT - That website you posted is full of chest beating fuckheads.

[dangerous]

LMFAO... scraping shit shouldnt happen... I wonder if the thread starter knows anything about correct body position, again like susoension something a green hairy arsed newbe will not have had time to perfect befor geting this suposed 1000

get what Im saying... power is just one factor and reason why a jump from a 250 to 1000 is too much.

[Nastrond]

No.

What keeps your tires in contact with the ground ?

EDIT - That website you posted is full of chest beating fuckheads.

We both know that. This was origionally about correct suspension set-up for the riders weight on the road which as I said it isn't such a big issue on the road as it is on a track as a lot of bikes do not have adjustable suspension anyway. What is important is that the suspension is in good working order. Not leaking or worn etc

EDIT - That website you posted is full of chest beating fuckheads