fuckall that are actually that light, though some might claim that to be the case, the panigale according to what i read today was 189kg dry. dry figures are a waste though, they trick you into trying to work out a power to weight ratio at an untrue weight.
The bike isnt going to go anywhere, or make any power unless it has fuel and oil in it, so factor that in when it comes to doing the numbers for real world use.
the lightest R1 is allegedly the 2004 at a claimed 172. Claimed being the operative word, the numbers are often as fudges as claimed power outputs.
after 2004, they increase in weight every year to the current model. add a few kgs to the claimed numbers though.
Yup, dry figures are stupid, some manufacturers take the batteries out to get the figures too! Completely pointless and really don't tell you much.
From memory the '04 R1 tipped the scales around 205-210kg wet, which is a light liter bike in my books.
I've weighed my 600 dry (with a battery) and it was 178 (or thereabouts) I am expecting it to be 185kg dry when finished, so I'd be hoping under 210kg wet (dreams are free)
how would the average joe go about weighing their bike?
I don't think I should break the bathroom scales by rolling the blade onto one on the front and one on the back..
.. or should I..![]()
Most bathroom scales will go to like 150kg, so if your bike is less than 300kg total you should be sweet.
If you have a center stand then one under that and one under the front wheel.
If you have a side stand, one under each wheel and one under the stand.
Add all the readings up gives the total weight.
Of course it won't mean anything except to yourself since what is and isn't a LAM is up to the NZTA, on factory data, for factory bikes, and will be printed on your licence (rego) label.
When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...
Just got myself a LAMS bike for $101
Better value than a 250
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
use two sets of bathroom scales.
In front of the rear wheel, place a bit of timber, to act as a ramp to roll onto a set of bathroom scales. do the same for the front wheel. Then just roll the bike forwards, and the front and back wheels will roll onto their respective scales at the same time.
add the two together for your weight, plus you can see the static weight distribution, remember though that weight bias changed when youre sitting on it
i know this is a old thread but someone might find it usefull. although it wasnt on the list when i purchased my 86' gpz400 i calculated it should be so took a gamble and applied for an exeption through ltsa, i needed the factory specs which i aquired through kawasaki. and the process took over a month but without a problem my bike was lams aproved and might even now be on the list. who wants to ride a 250 for 18 months?
I had the misfortune of buying my first bike in 2011 before LAMS came out, and 2nd hand 250cc bikes were overpriced because they had the learner niche. I paid far too much for a tidy GT250R, then LAMS was introduced, just as I moved up to a 675. I still haven't sold my old bike because it's just too hard to get a decent price when people can now buy up to 600cc bikes on their L license.
Winter's actually a bad time to be shopping from what i've seen. People think same way as you (nobody buying) and so don't list the bike. The people that do list bikes therefore seemingly price them much higher as theres no competition.
Late summer/fall seemed to be the best time to buy. Prices on most bikes gone up 2-5k since then, and there doesn't seem to much as much out there. A bargain appears every now and again ( Somebody was selling a 750 katana for $3,300 the other day. Shame no full license) but seems like best time to be buying was like 3-5months ago)
And to the dude with the hyobag, it's just because you've got a hyobag. They depeciated like a stone long before LAMS came in. A full year before LAMS came in year old hyobags with 10k kms on the clock were only worth $4,000. LAMS got nothign to do with it.
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