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Thread: Will LAMS kill the 250 bike market?

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrayWolf View Post
    20 year old, thrashed to buggery and back sprot 250's are overpriced, due to 'demand' of the uninitiated/unknowing... LAM's will sort THAT out.
    And those with a 500cc "thrashed to buggery and back" bike will want more for the privilage of owning it too ... but it will put a greater range (read choice) of motorcycles available to a learner.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by reggie1198 View Post
    Actually a 20kw bike with a dry weight of 168kgs would give a kw/tonne of about 107kw/t including the 100kg rider. Which is about the oomph of a standard 2.0l mid size car. Not bad from 250cc

    On another note, is the dry weight really 168kg, cause that's 1000cc sports bike dry weights.

    Reggie
    fuckall that are actually that light, though some might claim that to be the case, the panigale according to what i read today was 189kg dry. dry figures are a waste though, they trick you into trying to work out a power to weight ratio at an untrue weight.
    The bike isnt going to go anywhere, or make any power unless it has fuel and oil in it, so factor that in when it comes to doing the numbers for real world use.
    Quote Originally Posted by DrunkenMistake View Post
    Pretty sure a late model R1 is around 160 - 170 dry also
    the lightest R1 is allegedly the 2004 at a claimed 172. Claimed being the operative word, the numbers are often as fudges as claimed power outputs.
    after 2004, they increase in weight every year to the current model. add a few kgs to the claimed numbers though.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigertim20 View Post
    fuckall that are actually that light, though some might claim that to be the case, the panigale according to what i read today was 189kg dry. dry figures are a waste though, they trick you into trying to work out a power to weight ratio at an untrue weight.
    The bike isnt going to go anywhere, or make any power unless it has fuel and oil in it, so factor that in when it comes to doing the numbers for real world use.

    the lightest R1 is allegedly the 2004 at a claimed 172. Claimed being the operative word, the numbers are often as fudges as claimed power outputs.
    after 2004, they increase in weight every year to the current model. add a few kgs to the claimed numbers though.
    Yup, dry figures are stupid, some manufacturers take the batteries out to get the figures too! Completely pointless and really don't tell you much.
    From memory the '04 R1 tipped the scales around 205-210kg wet, which is a light liter bike in my books.
    I've weighed my 600 dry (with a battery) and it was 178 (or thereabouts) I am expecting it to be 185kg dry when finished, so I'd be hoping under 210kg wet (dreams are free)
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




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  4. #94
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    how would the average joe go about weighing their bike?

    I don't think I should break the bathroom scales by rolling the blade onto one on the front and one on the back..

    .. or should I..

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    how would the average joe go about weighing their bike?

    I don't think I should break the bathroom scales by rolling the blade onto one on the front and one on the back..

    .. or should I..
    That's how I did it, the scales didn't break though
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    how would the average joe go about weighing their bike?

    I don't think I should break the bathroom scales by rolling the blade onto one on the front and one on the back..

    .. or should I..
    Most bathroom scales will go to like 150kg, so if your bike is less than 300kg total you should be sweet.

    If you have a center stand then one under that and one under the front wheel.
    If you have a side stand, one under each wheel and one under the stand.

    Add all the readings up gives the total weight.

    Of course it won't mean anything except to yourself since what is and isn't a LAM is up to the NZTA, on factory data, for factory bikes, and will be printed on your licence (rego) label.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    how would the average joe go about weighing their bike?

    I don't think I should break the bathroom scales by rolling the blade onto one on the front and one on the back..

    .. or should I..
    Google the model bike you have. Most model related sites will give it's dry/wet weight. Also should have "claimed" horsepower.

    I gather the claimed horsepower/weight (supplied by manufacturer's) will be used to decide eligiblility for LAM's ..
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  8. #98
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    Just got myself a LAMS bike for $101
    Better value than a 250
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    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    how would the average joe go about weighing their bike?

    I don't think I should break the bathroom scales by rolling the blade onto one on the front and one on the back..

    .. or should I..
    use two sets of bathroom scales.
    In front of the rear wheel, place a bit of timber, to act as a ramp to roll onto a set of bathroom scales. do the same for the front wheel. Then just roll the bike forwards, and the front and back wheels will roll onto their respective scales at the same time.

    add the two together for your weight, plus you can see the static weight distribution, remember though that weight bias changed when youre sitting on it

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Just got myself a LAMS bike for $101
    Better value than a 250
    Sweet deal!
    Quote Originally Posted by tigertim20 View Post
    use two sets of bathroom scales.
    In front of the rear wheel, place a bit of timber, to act as a ramp to roll onto a set of bathroom scales. do the same for the front wheel. Then just roll the bike forwards, and the front and back wheels will roll onto their respective scales at the same time.

    add the two together for your weight, plus you can see the static weight distribution, remember though that weight bias changed when youre sitting on it
    That's how I did it
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  11. #101
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    gpz400

    i know this is a old thread but someone might find it usefull. although it wasnt on the list when i purchased my 86' gpz400 i calculated it should be so took a gamble and applied for an exeption through ltsa, i needed the factory specs which i aquired through kawasaki. and the process took over a month but without a problem my bike was lams aproved and might even now be on the list. who wants to ride a 250 for 18 months?

  12. #102
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    Killed the 250 price point

    I had the misfortune of buying my first bike in 2011 before LAMS came out, and 2nd hand 250cc bikes were overpriced because they had the learner niche. I paid far too much for a tidy GT250R, then LAMS was introduced, just as I moved up to a 675. I still haven't sold my old bike because it's just too hard to get a decent price when people can now buy up to 600cc bikes on their L license.

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marr0w1 View Post
    I had the misfortune of buying my first bike in 2011 before LAMS came out, and 2nd hand 250cc bikes were overpriced because they had the learner niche. I paid far too much for a tidy GT250R, then LAMS was introduced, just as I moved up to a 675. I still haven't sold my old bike because it's just too hard to get a decent price when people can now buy up to 600cc bikes on their L license.
    The price of bikes, especially small road bikes, varies with season - less people want to learn to ride in the Winter months.

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    The price of bikes, especially small road bikes, varies with season - less people want to learn to ride in the Winter months.
    Which makes me think now is the perfect time to buy a bike
    The beginning of summer would be the time when I'd start trying to sell one.

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grashopper View Post
    Which makes me think now is the perfect time to buy a bike
    The beginning of summer would be the time when I'd start trying to sell one.
    Winter's actually a bad time to be shopping from what i've seen. People think same way as you (nobody buying) and so don't list the bike. The people that do list bikes therefore seemingly price them much higher as theres no competition.

    Late summer/fall seemed to be the best time to buy. Prices on most bikes gone up 2-5k since then, and there doesn't seem to much as much out there. A bargain appears every now and again ( Somebody was selling a 750 katana for $3,300 the other day. Shame no full license ) but seems like best time to be buying was like 3-5months ago)

    And to the dude with the hyobag, it's just because you've got a hyobag. They depeciated like a stone long before LAMS came in. A full year before LAMS came in year old hyobags with 10k kms on the clock were only worth $4,000. LAMS got nothign to do with it.

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