Can an inline 4 engined bike be made to behave more like a V-twin engined bike?

[Jerry74]

When you don't know what you're talking about...you shouldn't be talking.


Mixing tyre brands is absolutely fine. I mix them to get the ideal performance, Racetech front and supercorser rear is the best I've had on the road. But a Shinko front and Bridgestone rear is good for touring with a few bags on the bag.

If you don't know what tyres are like, then matching pairs is a good way to keep grip levels close to each other, but it's certainly not a requirement.

If you actually took the time to read my post it says PERSONALLY!!! MY OPINION... The tyre manufacturers themselves won't recommend mixing tread patterns, even within their own.

It's not because they want you to just buy two of their tyres instead of just one, either (although they do...LOL)

Tyres are designed and built to work as a set. The tread designs themselves compliment one another when dealing with dispersing water and with mechanical grip. The internal constructions of the tyres front and rear are different (due to the geometrical and physical characteristics of a moving motorcycle), yet they also compliment one another.

Having different tyre brands on the front and rear may have unknown issues (things like handling, wear, etc.). There is no realistic way a tyre manufacturer can test all the possible combinations to make sure they are all safe, so as a blanket method of "CYA" they will just say no...but at the same time it does make sense.

It would be best to wait and be able to change both tyres to the same brand if at all possible...the added benefit is that you really get a better idea of how the new tyres truly perform as a set for you if you are switching brands.

Take note of other peoples opinions who have been riding for 20 years and may just know a wee bit too.

[Fast Eddie]

Tyres are designed and built to work as a set. The tread designs themselves compliment one another when dealing with dispersing water and with mechanical grip. The internal constructions of the tyres front and rear are different (due to the geometrical and physical characteristics of a moving motorcycle), yet they also compliment one another.

hehe I read the bridgestone brochure, it sounded just like that

but yea, I also buy matching tyre set when spending cash, but I do end up with an odd rear towards the end of the sets life, i go thru the matching rear quicker than the front and usually fit a used rear off trademe or whatever until the expensive front is gone too and then buy a new set again.

never had probs, any peculiar handling is just what I need to liven up my day anyway.

but matching tyres are sweet

[Fast Eddie]

been there...
If yer want a 4 cyclinder to put out the low end punch of a Vee

cut the cams in half turn them 180* and weld back togeather
put the plug leads to 1 & 3 off one coil / 2 & 4 of the other..
the motor will run as a twin.. fireing on 2 cyclinders at the same time.


Gavin Sendal / Craig Webby won the NZ speedway side chair champs with a GSXR1100
running as a twin..

this sounds awesome - noted for future build

[Tigadee]

been there...
If yer want a 4 cyclinder to put out the low end punch of a Vee
cut the cams in half turn them 180* and weld back togeather
put the plug leads to 1 & 3 off one coil / 2 & 4 of the other..
the motor will run as a twin.. fireing on 2 cyclinders at the same time.
DON"T try to pull the same red line as it did .. drop 2000 rpm off the red line..

Too much work...

Couldn't I just pull out two of the plugs? That'd make it a 2-cyl, right?

[Drew]

If you actually took the time to read my post it says PERSONALLY!!! MY OPINION... The tyre manufacturers themselves won't recommend mixing tread patterns, even within their own.

It's not because they want you to just buy two of their tyres instead of just one, either (although they do...LOL)

Tyres are designed and built to work as a set. The tread designs themselves compliment one another when dealing with dispersing water and with mechanical grip. The internal constructions of the tyres front and rear are different (due to the geometrical and physical characteristics of a moving motorcycle), yet they also compliment one another.

Oh yeah, so how do they compliment each other, and I REALLY want to know how the tyres effect how the other one moves water? Saying they do it is one thing, saying how they do it is where EVERY manufacturer just baffles with bullshit.

Having different tyre brands on the front and rear may have unknown issues (things like handling, wear, etc.). There is no realistic way a tyre manufacturer can test all the possible combinations to make sure they are all safe, so as a blanket method of "CYA" they will just say no...but at the same time it does make sense.

Have you actually tried mixing and matching tyres? I don't mean anyone should fit a Supercorser slick to the front, and a Kenda to the rear, but if they are both touring/sports/hypersport or what ever, it is ALL whatever works best for the rider.

It would be best to wait and be able to change both tyres to the same brand if at all possible...the added benefit is that you really get a better idea of how the new tyres truly perform as a set for you if you are switching brands.

Take note of other peoples opinions who have been riding for 20 years and may just know a wee bit too.

Bwahahahahahaha, you clearly haven't consideredd what I said either. Pot, meet kettle.

I was probably a bit rude with my opening comment, but your post validates it.

Guys like you are the reason I've been able to try so many combinations, (and we're talking fuckin dozens here). You buy in sets thinking it's the best thing to do, for no other reason than it's what you've been told, and given no evidence as to why.

It aint my money to waste, so go right ahead and swallow the marketing whole if you want.

[Jerry74]

Yes I have mixed in the past GSXR did not handle nearly as well or track as well as with a matching set, each to their own mate but for the most consistent handling matching sets are the best.

PS no offense taken it wouldn't be Kiwibiker if we could not handle a bit of stick from each other.

[GrayWolf]

If you actually took the time to read my post it says PERSONALLY!!! MY OPINION... The tyre manufacturers themselves won't recommend mixing tread patterns, even within their own.
of course they dont, it would be like Holden saying put a Ford motor in our car, it'll go better..they want you to remain 'brand loyal' you answer your own reason with the comment below .

It's not because they want you to just buy two of their tyres instead of just one, either (although they do...LOL)


Tyres are designed and built to work as a set. The tread designs themselves compliment one another when dealing with dispersing water and with mechanical grip. The internal constructions of the tyres front and rear are different (due to the geometrical and physical characteristics of a moving motorcycle), yet they also compliment one another.
yes they do, to a point, personal example. I have an FJ1200 in the garage, heavy, old school suspension and has handling 'quirks' that are well documented. many modern tyres are constructed with the modern bike in mind not heavy old dinosaurs like the FJ.. Tyre issues? Rear tyre was a 'semi radial' OEM, when compared to modern day ones.. the sidewall is very pronounced (deep) which allows a fair amount of sidewall flexing and it IS noticeable. Trying Diablo's on the front the weight and elderly styled suspension just ripped it to pieces in less than 6k, and we are not talking hard out riding either.
Best handling from that bike was gained BY mixing brands,,, using the Dunlop series produced for very high loads (Harley specific) on the rear. (Highly rigid carcass which immediately felt more planted on the raod compared to even the dual compound tyres for Wings etc). and a standard diablo or dual compound touring tyre on the front.


Having different tyre brands on the front and rear may have unknown issues (things like handling, wear, etc.). There is no realistic way a tyre manufacturer can test all the possible combinations to make sure they are all safe, so as a blanket method of "CYA" they will just say no...but at the same time it does make sense.
What is far more likely to produce an issue is the profile difference between the fitted tyres, which can also be used to improve a bikes handling characteristics. Again using the FJ example: long low heavy, will run out wide on bends, stands up under braking into bends... so a sportier profile tyre on the front has an advantage, it will allow a 'drop in' effect, which helps to counter the stand up under braking. With the rear profile I found the flatter tyres no issue to handling, in fact the chicken strips were pretty even between both tyres... So there is how mixing tyres can have an advantageous outcome.

It would be best to wait and be able to change both tyres to the same brand if at all possible...the added benefit is that you really get a better idea of how the new tyres truly perform as a set for you if you are switching brands.

Take note of other peoples opinions who have been riding for 20 years and may just know a wee bit too.

As above, sometimes people who have ridden almost 38yrs continuously may know just a wee bit too, but then I admit to knowing bugger all

[gatch]

Been riding for 11 years. I've forgotten more than I ever learned..

I fit matching sets to my current bike. For the simple reason that these is fuck all choice for a 150 profile 18" tire. So if I have the stickiest of the icky tire on the back, I put the stickiest of the icky on the front to keep it in line.

However one day I may find an IRC rear and keep the a12h front. For a bit of drift fun at manfield..

[Tigadee]

I have no idea about Kenda, but my main concern is that it says "Cruiser" while the front is a Metzler Lasertec (a well-known and respected tyre).

Now I don't go to the track and I consider myself a mild-mannered sensible rider, so with that in mind, do I really have to change the Kenda? It's new too, as is the Metzler, so it seems a shame to do that. I'd much prefer to change the rear shock first, as that stands out to me most, being a soft 'floaty' suspension.

[ducatilover]

You might find that the Kenda is not very nice and confidence inspiring in the wet. If you're not a speedy bugger you won't run out of grip in the dry.

I'd change it just because it's an ugly tyre

[Drew]

Here's how I roll. There's tread, it'll pass a warrant, I'll live with it. I'm a tight bastard.

If you have a skill set to know when the tyre is at it's limits you're fine on the Kenda. Christ, 99% of the time you're not in a situation that will cause the tyre to let go, but if the shit hits the fan, it will let go and not grab again.

Rear end letting go is by far the most preferable way to fall off though, least likely to cause injury.

[gatch]

Here's how I roll. There's tread, it'll pass a warrant, I'll live with it. I'm a tight bastard.

If you have a skill set to know when the tyre is at it's limits you're fine on the Kenda. Christ, 99% of the time you're not in a situation that will cause the tyre to let go, but if the shit hits the fan, it will let go and not grab again.

Rear end letting go is by far the most preferable way to fall off though, least likely to cause injury.

Agreed. On the race track at least it's not really that big of a deal to feel the back end sliding around. When the front starts to go that's when the old anus does it's impression of a camera lens.

[pete-blen]

Too much work...

Couldn't I just pull out two of the plugs? That'd make it a 2-cyl, right?

And use the 2 spare cylinders as a supercharger

[Tigadee]

If you're not a speedy bugger you won't run out of grip in the dry.

Speedy bugger I am not. I just hope that's enough when it's wet...

I'd change it just because it's an ugly tyre

Ah, then it's fine paired with me then... LOL

If you have a skill set to know when the tyre is at it's limits you're fine on the Kenda. Christ, 99% of the time you're not in a situation that will cause the tyre to let go, but if the shit hits the fan, it will let go and not grab again. Rear end letting go is by far the most preferable way to fall off though, least likely to cause injury.

OK, thanks for that info... *scribbling in notebook*

Agreed. On the race track at least it's not really that big of a deal to feel the back end sliding around. When the front starts to go that's when the old anus does it's impression of a camera lens.

Like this? Or like this?

And use the 2 spare cylinders as a supercharger

I like that idea!

[ducatilover]

Should be fine if you ride like me in the wet (I'm average ish in the wet, don't like being fast when it's slippery)