just a twist of the wrist..
With regard to tapped holes in aluminium. A lot of manufacturers are now installing Powercoil (helicoil) inserts at the factory stage. This gives a stronger thread with less chance of crossthreading. A kit to thread and insert an M10 thread would include ten or a dozen inserts and cost $80 or so (comes complete with appropriate sized drill, tap to give a final/insert thread of M10, the inserts and an inserting tool). I'd always install Powercoil inserts when dealing with aluminium even if I had to go to a thicker material (which would stand up to crashes a little better anyway).
thanks for the replies people - it turns out that my cheapy rearsets manufacturer can supply individual parts after all, so probably wont need to get anything custom made at this stage
Different grade alloys clean up differently and give a brighter or duller anodised finish. Cleaning the piece up nicely, I use 1200, 1500 and then 2000 grade wet and dry on my alloy pieces. Takes away all machining marks and imperfections. Comes out awesome. As everyone has said here, machine the holes first and clean them up, then anodise.
"...you meet the weirdest people riding a Guzzi !!..."
This seemed to be the best thread about anodising.
I've got a large number of parts I want either chromed, anodised, polished n clear coated, or powder coated.
The parts are - All the handlebar hardware and forward control hardware, plus front
wheel, rear wheel, and rear brake hub and brake arm.
Only issue might
be the master cylinder, as it has a small plastic window and rubber seals etc.
Any ideas? I suppose the levers are cast and therefore would look like crap if anodised?
Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks