Drz400

[dino3310]

There is a restriction between the carb and head on one of the DRZ models not sure which one though, same as some XR650R's. was like Padmei said to do with emmission BS, most are removed by the new buyers i would expect.

[dmoo1790]

Ok I've been surfing the web and kind of confused....

Seems that there are a number of sites saying how to uncork but not really sure if they all apply to the Dr model here in NZ. Rung the local dealer and now confused, more so than usual.

I removed the snorkel which has effectively left the top of the air box open. I think ths has improved the power slightly. It's far from a beast.

I understand there maybe a restriction in the carb manifold that sits in between the carb and the block, legend tells that removal will unleash more ponies.

Can anyone confirm the existence of this restriction and vouch for the removal. Remember this is the E not SM etc.

Will I have to rejet? I don't think I'm running lean with want I've done so far and open to any words of wisdom.

Also just wondering what effect changing the front sprocket from 15 to 14 will have, will this improve acceleration markedly. Running 47 on the rear. If so will it be a bitch to ride in on the road?

Cheers

It came stock with a ridiculous rubber intake restrictor that left no more than 20% of the intake open. Bloody stupid, dangerous crap. It was so gutless it was dangerous in traffic because you couldn't out-drag cars. I wrote about it on KB. Eventually got the dealer to tell me what was the problem and remove it. AFAIK all the mods like 3x3 do not apply to this bike. They're for different models with different carb, compression, etc. So the only way to more power is pipe (= loud) and a rejet to suit I guess. From there it would be a big bore kit, etc.

14/47 runs out of puff pretty quick on the road. Pretty buzzy at 100+ kph.

One thing about modding the airbox: Don't drop it in a river crossing. I'm a serial river crossing dropper so I like my bikes to be as waterproof as possible

[Woodman]

"One thing about modding the airbox: Don't drop it in a river crossing. I'm a serial river crossing dropper so I like my bikes to be as waterproof as possible "


This is very good advice.

[Andy67]

Thanks Dmoo and Woodman,

I did think the air box looked kind of vulnerable with the lid off....maybe I will reinstall and see if changing the gearing will give me more grunt.

Dino and Padmei, yep the 3x3 mod on YouTube looks a different model but still plenty of people posting up pix that look like the E box so still interested in any info around other restrictions.

NI read one of Padmei early posts with his bike around jetting for adventure rides and stock standard mentioned head snapping power. Maybe gearing is the key to get more pep and I am just pissing around the edges looking for mods of dubious value?

I love this bike just exploring options....

[Padmei]

I was musing over your findings that the DRZ was gutless in comparison to your BMW. I rode my DRZ after my BMW & yep I find the power (off road) more than heaps for me. My BMW & yours are at the outer edges of the power continuum

[Andy67]

Maybe that is it Padmei, corrupted by power.....I rode a VFR1200 the other week and felt that was a bit gutless too. Started to get interesting and then I was bouncing off the limiter, my disappointment was palpable.

[ADVGD]

Maybe gearing is the key to get more pep and I am just pissing around the edges looking for mods of dubious value?

Good job on getting straight into it and practicing off road, keep in mind it takes a long long time to get good off road, seat time is key, lots and lots of seat time. On one ride you may learn very little while the next you may find a series of things just click and all fall into place. Pushing your boundaries is important for improvement but don't try and break any records too fast or you may find you end up breaking you. Leave the back-flips for at least three more weeks

The E model will never stack up to your BMW on-road and will certainly feel gutless, but, off road it is a well capable machine with 38ish hp stock on a reasonably light bike. If you put a DRZ in the hands of a good rider he'll make it look like a fast machine, all the extra time and money spent fluffing around to get an extra 2 1/4 hp is better spent on gas in the tank and riding time improving your riding skills, then, you'll be the one able to push it and get the most out of it. The DRZ400 isn't hugely powerful but it has enough usable power to be limited only by the rider.

If you are intent on fiddling there are a range of mods possible, some cheap, some not, some quick, some that will consume hours/days/weeks. Keep in mind you'll never get fists fulls of explosive power from a DRZ400 without spending big money on big bore kits, cam upgrades etc etc plus lots and lots of garage time.

Just my 2c

[Andy67]

Good job on getting straight into it and practicing off road, keep in mind it takes a long long time to get good off road, seat time is key, lots and lots of seat time. On one ride you may learn very little while the next you may find a series of things just click and all fall into place. Pushing your boundaries is important for improvement but don't try and break any records too fast or you may find you end up breaking you. Leave the back-flips for at least three more weeks

The E model will never stack up to your BMW on-road and will certainly feel gutless, but, off road it is a well capable machine with 38ish hp stock on a reasonably light bike. If you put a DRZ in the hands of a good rider he'll make it look like a fast machine, all the extra time and money spent fluffing around to get an extra 2 1/4 hp is better spent on gas in the tank and riding time improving your riding skills, then, you'll be the one able to push it and get the most out of it. The DRZ400 isn't hugely powerful but it has enough usable power to be limited only by the rider.

If you are intent on fiddling there are a range of mods possible, some cheap, some not, some quick, some that will consume hours/days/weeks. Keep in mind you'll never get fists fulls of explosive power from a DRZ400 without spending big money on big bore kits, cam upgrades etc etc plus lots and lots of garage time.

Just my 2c

Thanks mate, you have hit the nail on the head around the questions I've been asking. I agree that performance mods can be a pandoras box and often do more harm than good or are of questionable value.

The bike itself is fantastic for what I want and I am no where near exploring its off road capabilities which is what I bought it for after all. I am not fussed about the road performance as its hard to imagine me carving off big open road miles on it.

I think I was after more lift in the front and maybe gearing will sort that out for me. Absolute power is probably not a concern otherwise I would've been looking at a different bike. I am quite pleased with the low down grunt, seems to be a strength with this bike.

I have a couple of other questions if you will indulge...

How often do I need to clean the air filter ?

How hard is it to change the front sprocket ? Anything I need to be careful of ?

Is there anyone out there who would be prepared to show me some off road techniques to practice ?

Real noob questions I know...

Cheers Andy

[dmoo1790]

How often do I need to clean the air filter ?

How hard is it to change the front sprocket ? Anything I need to be careful of ?

Is there anyone out there who would be prepared to show me some off road techniques to practice ?

Real noob questions I know...

Cheers Andy

Filter: According to the manual or when it gets dirty. Check especially after dusty rides.

Sprocket: I found it to be impossible but others may have better technique. Torque is 100 Nm so it's pretty tight. Case guard needs to be swapped to fit the sprocket size although I guess you could leave the 15t guard on with a 14t sprocket.

Have a look at this: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...-old-warhorses

[bart]

Sprocket: I found it to be impossible but others may have better technique. Torque is 100 Nm so it's pretty tight. Case guard needs to be swapped to fit the sprocket size although I guess you could leave the 15t guard on with a 14t sprocket.

I do recall grinding a large section of the chain guard thing to make a 15 tooth sprocket fit. You don't have to buy a new one.

The bolt to remove the sprocket on mine wasn't too bad. Just make sure you regularly change the locking tab thing. If the bolt and sprocket come loose, you can blow the counter shift oil seal and be left stranded. I know from experience.

[Padmei]

Mate i've got oodles of offroad techniques - shitloads in fact - I've got offorad techniques coming out my butt hole. I'd show them to ya but I don't think they'll help ya
dance you banana dance

When you get a chance can you measure the seat height on your bike - not just what it says on the web but a real measurement standing next to it- no hurry sometime this month or so. cheers

[Oscar]

Mate i've got oodles of offroad techniques - shitloads in fact - I've got offorad techniques coming out my butt hole. I'd show them to ya but I don't think they'll help ya
dance you banana dance

When you get a chance can you measure the seat height on your bike - not just what it says on the web but a real measurement standing next to it- no hurry sometime this month or so. cheers

If'n they're coming outta yer butthole yer probably doing it wrong.

Just sayin'

[JATZ]

I told ya you shoulda got a 350

I have used a 15 tooth front sproket for getting to the interesting bits and carried a 13 tooth for when I got there. It's a 5-10 miute job to change them over, although the 350 has a circlip, can you put a circlip on the 400 ? There's not much adjustment left in the chain after the swap so it probly wont work if you chains stretched already when using the 15 tooth

[Andy67]

Mate i've got oodles of offroad techniques - shitloads in fact - I've got offorad techniques coming out my butt hole. I'd show them to ya but I don't think they'll help ya
dance you banana dance

When you get a chance can you measure the seat height on your bike - not just what it says on the web but a real measurement standing next to it- no hurry sometime this month or so. cheers

One of the more interesting posts P man...

950 at lowest point, hope that helps?

[Andy67]

I do recall grinding a large section of the chain guard thing to make a 15 tooth sprocket fit. You don't have to buy a new one.

The bolt to remove the sprocket on mine wasn't too bad. Just make sure you regularly change the locking tab thing. If the bolt and sprocket come loose, you can blow the counter shift oil seal and be left stranded. I know from experience.

Interesting, I've read plenty about using loctite when changing sprocketson this bike. I used to adjust the chain on my X11. That was 80 ft lbs at rear axle. Had a torque wrench and it seems a good grunt and then a bit. How much precision does one actually need?