Just made me think of these guys.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwyZl...eature=related
2t or 4t easy bros.
Just made me think of these guys.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwyZl...eature=related
2t or 4t easy bros.
Managed to get sling off, still swollen right shoulder. Collar bone isn't connected to shoulder anymore I'm told. Gotta wait to see if it needs screwing back down to its normal pozzy.
Be prepared to need to buy another one. Then just go for it. Slight twist of the throttle should bring the wheel up on the DRZ, unless it's an SM and then it requires a tug on the bars. Once it's up you'll get the feel of it progressively, and learn to modulate the throttle in time.
Have fun.
owch! Hope it heals fast for you!
~ Proud Mummy to Alyssa, Rogue & Cole ~
....... www.bysharyn.com .......
Web Designer | Photographer | Nail Technician
You sound prepared to accept a sore arse, so I'll elaborate a touch.
Take off and roll the throttle as normal, when you get to the mid rev range, 'tweak' the throttle a little further quite quickly. You'll soon get the hang of how much at what point in the rev range.
That should get the wheel up, if it doesn't, as you 'tweak' the throttle give a tug on the bars and 'Bob's your uncle'.
Biggest most important part of a wheelie is throttle control. Smooth modulation is the key to long smooth monos. Your spoilt on the DRZ for ease of hoisting, but disadvantaged when you get near the balance point because it moves as the suspension compresses and extends. Take your time! You will not be world number one stunter after three days practice, and there are fuck all prizes for most scars on your arse, (trust me, I've got some serious scars up my left hand side from just one fuck up).
Go have fun, and you'll be doing stand ups through traffic just like the pros.
Cheers Drew and yes I expect to flip at some point....
General disclaimer: I am in no way an expert on this....
That method may not be that useful for off road riding as you are usually wanting to lift the front at a specific place on the trail rather than at a particular speed, the method I was taught is based on trials riding / slow speed getting over large, lumpy things.
This works from idle up, just watch out for power bands.
Clutch in, push hard down on the front suspension then pull back , move your weight back and release the clutch at the point of pulling back, throttle is rolled on slightly as the clutch is released.
This will lift the front as high as you want and you can choose where you get the lift, ie: in front of a log / hole at a controllable speed.
Probably not much use for stand ups through traffic tho, so ignore it if I missed the point entirely!![]()
I use a completely different approach to wheelies. I do all the modulation with the clutch
WHEELIES ARE NEITHER BIG NOR CLEVER
![]()
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks