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Thread: Popping the bead

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy mac View Post
    Wheel on bike, deflate tube, ride 300 metres up road, U turn - bead comes off rim now. Ride home with back end fishtailing. Tyre is now warm & pliable.
    Agree......

    As simple as that......
    Opinions are like arseholes: Everybody has got one, but that doesn't mean you got to air it in public all the time....

  2. #62
    Swapped some tyres over yesterday - tubeless rims and I broke the bead with my crocs. They are tubed tyres though, tubeless on the same rims takes some serious effort.
    In and out of jobs, running free
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  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    tubeless on the same rims takes some serious effort.
    It shouldn't make any difference, bead profiles should be the same it's normally the rim that is different
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  4. #64
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    26th September 2005 - 21:14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JATZ View Post
    40cm irons ?
    Pussy
    2x 22 cm is all you need. It's all about technique
    One of these days may show you young fullahs.....
    Here here. I'm with ya. Canny be bothered carrying 3x 40cm irons when on a ride so why use them at home.

    Actually the real reason is that 40cm irons and poor technique could result in stuffed tyres. Proper technique means you only need a 22cm.

    Cheers R
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

  5. #65
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    8th July 2004 - 14:56
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    I can change a tyre quite happily with short irons but I got Rosie some of the long ones with the curved ends (michelin style??) mainly to make it easier to peel off the 2nd side, but they are rather nice all round, a good shaped tip plus the bend just make the job a liitle quicker & easier.

    On the road you're usually only taking one side off & the tyre will be warm so it a piece of piss with short levers.

    Cheers
    Clint

  6. #66
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    20th January 2010 - 21:19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JATZ View Post
    40cm irons ?
    Pussy
    2x 22 cm is all you need. It's all about technique
    One of these days may show you young fullahs.....
    What does that make the guy at firestone shirley that uses an iron 1m long ?

    If I do the DB1 hopefully one of you guys won't have to show me how its done

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by clint640 View Post
    I can change a tyre quite happily with short irons but I got Rosie some of the long ones with the curved ends (michelin style??) mainly to make it easier to peel off the 2nd side, but they are rather nice all round, a good shaped tip plus the bend just make the job a liitle quicker & easier.

    On the road you're usually only taking one side off & the tyre will be warm so it a piece of piss with short levers.

    Cheers
    Clint
    Size matters
    But I can still use the shorter levers if necessary.
    We use watered down window cleaner to lube the tyre, and it seems to work well.
    The road to hell is paved...

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    It shouldn't make any difference, bead profiles should be the same it's normally the rim that is different
    Oh, so it's just me that I have to take my wheels with tubeless tyres to the tyre shop to break the bead, but I'm a tough guy when it comes to the K70? Another theory that doesn't work in practice.
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  9. #69
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    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Oh, so it's just me that I have to take my wheels with tubeless tyres to the tyre shop to break the bead, but I'm a tough guy when it comes to the K70? Another theory that doesn't work in practice.
    Yep. It's all psyco sykol all in your mind.

    Be the tyre lever...




    The front of the DR, you can use the heel of your hand to break the bead. The TT350 front and rear, likewise.
    The 160x60x17 on the rear of the Nordwest? Riding 20km out of the Rainbow at speeds up to 60kph didn't pop it off or loosen it at all...

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by brp View Post
    ......If I do the DB1 hopefully one of you guys won't have to show me how its done
    Just make sure you bring something the right size to remove the axle. One pre run I didn't 32mm is a large socket, even for a cocky.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rosie View Post
    Size matters
    But I can still use the shorter levers if necessary.
    We use watered down window cleaner to lube the tyre, and it seems to work well.
    Even if size does matter, at least you know how to make use of what you've got. Even got the lube well sorted

    Sorry Rosie - that was too easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    .....The front of the DR, you can use the heel of your hand to break the bead. The TT350 front and rear, likewise.
    The 160x60x17 on the rear of the Nordwest? Riding 20km out of the Rainbow at speeds up to 60kph didn't pop it off or loosen it at all...
    Ya missed one - what about the rear of the DR?


    (quite day at work - either that or I'm trying to avoid something!)

    Cheers R
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooneyr View Post
    Ya missed one - what about the rear of the DR?
    That's been covered here. In gory detail

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooneyr View Post
    Just make sure you bring something the right size to remove the axle. One pre run I didn't 32mm is a large socket, even for a cocky.
    Cheerz R - Very good point


    (Rosie - I thought its not the size of the wand but the magician behind it)

  13. #73
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    CRC and WD40 dry to a tacky waxy sticky substance - no good for long term light-duty lube. Never used it on a tyre. Dish soap can be trapped in the bead and not washed out till you start spinning up the wheel and flexing the bead in wet sloppy mud, when it first becomes a lube again then eventually is washed away.

    Get a small pump-spray bottle of lens cleaner, dilute up to 50% with water, refill with windex from a big bottle. Cheap as chips. Multi-function as it can also be used to clean your visor or goggles. Creates just enough short-term lube to get the tyre on.

    Whilst the long fancy levers are very nice (the KTM ones are majick!) they aren't required and the sharp points can scratch and gouge the rims very easily. I use two shorty levers, and even then the second is only used to get the second bite when getting the first side off. Three levers might be useful if you are an octopus, but for me they just create two extra things you have to move outta your way.

    To get the tyre completely off, flip it over and lift the second side out just like the first, so that the rim ends up inside the tyre. Stand the whole lot up, separate the tyre and rim, and push the top of the tyre down so you can lift the rim up and out. I've been shown - and tried/used - lots of ways; this is the easiest of them all for me.
    Cheers,
    Colin

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
    All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by brp View Post
    (Rosie - I thought its not the size of the wand but the magician behind it)
    This magician likes her long levers two of them, plus one short lever. I use my knee or the back of my leg to hold the third one, octopus-stylez.
    The road to hell is paved...

  15. #75
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    "Good On Ya Gal"

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