NEW Gas Gas EC300 2T

[Trials Rider]

Linton from Dirt Action Services (DAS Moto) will have the new Gas Gas EC300 2T and the new 250 4T for demos, plus bikes that Linton has lowered for short arses like me, in fact my bike with lowered forks, lowered rear suspension and lowered seat height.

Also suspension re valved to make it more plush to ride, no more arm pump, very nice.

My bike has the six day enduro forks in it which is fine if you do ten foot jumps, I am 46 and don’t do ten foot jumps, if I do it is a mistake - order an ambulance.

Linton re valved my forks for trail riding and what a huge difference, the wheel doesn’t wash out over tree roots, doesn’t bash around boulders, it rides over them, much nicer to ride and a lot lest tiring.

Anyway mark Sunday 7th October for Greta ride park to try this stuff out for yourself.

Also check out www.myrides.co.nz for the listings

[Dent]

Im planning to attend, mostly to check out the bike park, and have a quick try of the 250 4t (with the wr250 engine).

I'll have my 2010 GG 300 there.

[Trials Rider]

Im planning to attend, mostly to check out the bike park, and have a quick try of the 250 4t (with the wr250 engine).

I'll have my 2010 GG 300 there.

Sounds good, yip it is a good area to ride, should be a good day, see you there

[F5 Dave]

Even the std forks are valved crazily, in NZ where we have slippery tree roots & ruts big improvements can be made. Linton is the guy to make them.

[Trials Rider]

Even the std forks are valved crazily, in NZ where we have slippery tree roots & ruts big improvements can be made. Linton is the guy to make them.

Totally agree, it changes the entire dynamics of the bike and the ride ability over tree roots etc, definitely well worth doing and agree Linton is dam good on forks and suspension

[Dent]

The Sachs on my 2010 were fairly good out of the crate compared to the zokes on my 2007. I did still have Linton tweak the forks a little when fitting heavier springs.

[Trials Rider]

The Sachs on my 2010 were fairly good out of the crate compared to the zokes on my 2007. I did still have Linton tweak the forks a little when fitting heavier springs.

I found the rear Ohlins fine, plenty of adjustment but the zokes on the front were to hard (valve wise) springs were fine for me

[Fryin Finn]

I'm not gonna mess with my suspension (2012 300 racing) no need to besides I spent Saturday afternoon changing the needle jet to the carb. This involved removing the seat, right sidecover, silencer and bolts fixing the plastic subframe to the main frame (bloody fiddly) rotating the subframe so the air box detaches from the back of the carb. Then I had to take the sprocket guard off so I could shuffle the carb out and take the carb top off (2 tiny bolts) then pull back the spring to pull the throttle cable out. I bent the clip on the needle and had to straighten it out (fiddly as) before replacing it. The carb spring was a bastard to work with reattaching the throttle cable but it all came together and no left over nuts, bolts or other parts. The bike started 2nd kick (after sitting idle for 3 weeks) and a quick ride up and down my driveway indicated the jetting was better and left a nice trench in my lawn.
Good bike otherwise

[F5 Dave]

S'funny I can do that on the side of the trail & have done. Just have to rotate the carb (away from the chainguard). When you take the clip off push the needle assembly against a flat hard surface with fingers on needle & clip so it can't ping off. Re-assembly the reverse.

Changing mains you need to pull the top off & then rotate the carb the other way but move chainguard.

[Trials Rider]

I'm not gonna mess with my suspension (2012 300 racing) no need to besides I spent Saturday afternoon changing the needle jet to the carb. This involved removing the seat, right sidecover, silencer and bolts fixing the plastic subframe to the main frame (bloody fiddly) rotating the subframe so the air box detaches from the back of the carb. Then I had to take the sprocket guard off so I could shuffle the carb out and take the carb top off (2 tiny bolts) then pull back the spring to pull the throttle cable out. I bent the clip on the needle and had to straighten it out (fiddly as) before replacing it. The carb spring was a bastard to work with reattaching the throttle cable but it all came together and no left over nuts, bolts or other parts. The bike started 2nd kick (after sitting idle for 3 weeks) and a quick ride up and down my driveway indicated the jetting was better and left a nice trench in my lawn.
Good bike otherwise

So I take it watch making is not high on you agenda

Sounds like you had enough of the bike a part, the forks would have been easy