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Thread: Munted bolt head on oil filter cover

  1. #1
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    Munted bolt head on oil filter cover

    As the title says i went to change the oil and filter on my YZ (first time its been done since its previous owner) and the 1 of the 3 allan headed bolts is completly stripped round and over tightened beyond buggery. Lots of foul language was used when i found this and the urge to hunt down previous owner and kick them in the head Haha. so Boys and girls, what should i do? what would you do?
    cheers

  2. #2
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    try a a set of hex drives if you can get some the have all the star type scokets etc get one that is a tight fit and tap in with a hammer or an allen key that is ever so slightly bigger either one should work.
    [SIGPIC][/SIG

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    Unless you really know what to do ... Pay somebody that DOES to do it. So many things COULD go wrong ... really wrong ...

    Colin Clyne Motorcycles ... main street northern end where the street narrows up. (next to the bakery)
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck_rebel View Post
    As the title says i went to change the oil and filter on my YZ (first time its been done since its previous owner) and the 1 of the 3 allan headed bolts is completly stripped round and over tightened beyond buggery. Lots of foul language was used when i found this and the urge to hunt down previous owner and kick them in the head Haha. so Boys and girls, what should i do? what would you do?
    cheers

    stud extractors. whack the next size one up in, tap handle that shit out. heat, crc, and an impact driver elsewise.

  5. #5
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    SuperCheap do a low cost Dremel equivalent. If you can get at the bolt head, cut a slot across and use a flat blade screwdriver.

    http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/onli...08#Description
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    SuperCheap do a low cost Dremel equivalent. If you can get at the bolt head, cut a slot across and use a flat blade screwdriver.
    That'd be my pick, use a hack saw blade to cut a slot, instead of a flat blade screwdriver a coal chisel is better though with vice grips for leverage ( not that I've ever done it of course ) .

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post

    stud extractors. whack the next size one up in, tap handle that shit out. heat, crc, and an impact driver elsewise.
    there's two types of stud removers , fluted and tapered. your advice is not going to help someone who has limited mechanical knowledge

  8. #8
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    oooh. good luck. Worst case scenario involves sacrificing the cover. DAMHIK

    I have used the cut a slot technique successfully but that depends on access. Plus your risk is breaking half the bolt head off. If that happens try and break the other half, remove the cover and then the stub should come out. Try and get some penetrating oil on it as well. the tapered screw extractors are OK but they can break the bolt as well.

    Good luck. there are few things more frustrating I reckon.

    Post up a photo if you can because if you can see the head you should be OK. If it is recessed you have a major issue.
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  9. #9
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    Good point on the breaking half off if you cut a slot, you have to be careful you leave enough there so it is strong enough to turn without breaking off.

  10. #10
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    yeah have tried that and just made a bigger mess!! will put photos up later in the week, and btw i'm not an out right novice to mechanical stuff just bikes are different to what i usually play with (v8's)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck_rebel View Post
    yeah have tried that and just made a bigger mess!! will put photos up later in the week, and btw i'm not an out right novice to mechanical stuff just bikes are different to what i usually play with (v8's)
    Damn, I'd probably go for drilling it out in prep for a helicoil, I'm kinda suspicious about it being thread locked or worse in there, I mean the bolt is stronger than the case right, so only so hard you can get em in.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck_rebel View Post
    yeah have tried that and just made a bigger mess!! will put photos up later in the week, and btw i'm not an out right novice to mechanical stuff just bikes are different to what i usually play with (v8's)
    order a new cover online, first, then you know if you fuck it up you're covered. If and when you win, you've a spare cover.
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  13. #13
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    You can get accessory covers for some brands and these are usually cheaper than genuine items , think DRC do one for the Yams or a GYTR yamaha.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    there's two types of stud removers , fluted and tapered. your advice is not going to help someone who has limited mechanical knowledge

    you're not trying very hard...


    it will, a'cause if he has limited mechanical knowledge he's going to go to ta shop and say "i want some stud extractors, biyatch" and they'll say, "right this way sir"

    (btw my stud extractors are tapered AND fluted.... you be trollin'?)

  15. #15
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    Last time I had a situation like this I was lucky enough that it was facing up - I put a circle of sealant around it then left a puddle of Kano Kroil penetrating oil over night.
    Came back next day, cleaned it all off, preheated the area with gas, mig welded a 6" nail across it then let it cool. Came back to it with some gentle gas heating on the surrounding area and a bit of oil at the screw boundary and started gently easing it out using the extra leverage.

    Was a bitch at first but easy after one turn.


    I've also tried the slot cut method and also had it fail once

    Good luck

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