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Thread: Ask an Engineer

  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete-blen View Post
    Been there done that... made a GSXR750 think it was a twin...
    for one of my TQ midgets...
    Cut the cams turn one end 180* re-weld back togeather..
    change the plug leads..
    just don't try to rev it it 11,000 rpm... set the red line about 7500/8000
    and make use of the massive torque it will gain..

    Gavin Sendle/Craig Webby won the NZ speedway side car champs with a
    GSXR1100 running as a twin..
    That's a proper big bang though, this is only a half arse one


    I have a set of ZZR400k cams in the garage, same journals as the 600 ones and same dimensions, except lobe height.
    I could experiment with them?
    They're not hollow, just have indents in each end for the magic cam making machine or some shit
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  2. #137
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    30th July 2008 - 18:56
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    Coppercoat is IMHO the best thread lubricant to stop exhaust threads binding up. In the old days they used to use brass nuts on exhausts.
    Just another leather clad Tinkerbell.
    The Wanker on the Fucking Harley is going for a ride!

  3. #138
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    The why is easy; they came with an engine. I have some long brass manifold nuts I thought I might try.

    Drills Taps and Dies have LH twist drill bits.

  4. #139
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    31st January 2012 - 16:09
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    The why is easy; they came with an engine. I have some long brass manifold nuts I thought I might try.

    Drills Taps and Dies have LH twist drill bits.
    Umm, in the years Ive been doing it, never seen taps come with a LH drills
    as for Die's you don't need to drill a hole for them...

  5. #140
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by carburator View Post
    Umm, in the years Ive been doing it, never seen taps come with a LH drills
    as for Die's you don't need to drill a hole for them...

    He means the company "Drills Taps and Dies Ltd" in Christchurch. These dudes.

    And they do indeed list LH jobber drills. Available online no less! Location on the site is a bit obscure bt the link takes you straight there.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  6. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by carburator View Post
    Umm, in the years Ive been doing it, never seen taps come with a LH drills
    as for Die's you don't need to drill a hole for them...
    Never said they did!

  7. #142
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    The why is easy; they came with an engine. I have some long brass manifold nuts I thought I might try.
    Wasn't trying to imply that Mr Honda (et al) don't know their shit, it's just that I've see Ti fail so many times in new applications. It seems to behave quite differently to "normal" materials, and the failure mode and frequency is very difficult to predict. Brass nuts should be fine as long as you've got enough extra length. If you want AB2 nuts let me know, I've got some round bar stock here.

    Drills Taps and Dies have LH twist drill bits.
    Cheers, looks like a fairly good selection too if they actually stock what they've got listed. When I'm feeling braver I'll ask them about prices.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  8. #143
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    31st January 2012 - 16:09
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Never said they did!
    Ah, Id better go and shoot a crow, bast and slow roast it so I can eat humble crow..

    did'nt realise you mean't a company..

  9. #144
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    9th January 2005 - 22:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by carburator View Post
    Ah, Id better go and shoot a crow, bast and slow roast it so I can eat humble crow..

    did'nt realise you mean't a company..
    At last I can contribute! First slow cook it like you would lamb shanks*: so get the crow in a pot and put in onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, beef stock and red wine, some herbs and whatnot, and cook it for a few hours till tender. reserve the liquid, and put the crow in the fridge overnight. When you want to serve it, roast it uncovered for 45mins or an hour till the skin is crispy. Meanwhile, get the fat off your cooking liquid and reduce it till syrupy. Serve with new potatoes and seasonal veges, sauce over the top and more on the side.



    *This works a treat for duck so should work with most game birds.
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  10. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Wasn't trying to imply that Mr Honda (et al) don't know their shit, it's just that I've see Ti fail so many times in new applications. It seems to behave quite differently to "normal" materials, and the failure mode and frequency is very difficult to predict. Brass nuts should be fine as long as you've got enough extra length. If you want AB2 nuts let me know, I've got some round bar stock here..
    They're not factory, they just came with a 'race' motor I purchased... I know the previous owner has had a couple of them with a bit of Ti hardware all over them, so presumably they're reasonable adequate. It's only for the track, so not the end of the world if one breaks Yup, nice long manifold nuts like you'd see on much older vehicles, I'll see how they go with some Coppaslip or similar. The way I figure it, even if they're not really suitable, they'll be soft enough to remove without too much hassle?

  11. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    The way I figure it, even if they're not really suitable, they'll be soft enough to remove without too much hassle?
    The nuts? Yes, worst case clean up the studs with a dienut.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  12. #147
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    19th August 2012 - 19:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete-blen View Post
    Been there done that... made a GSXR750 think it was a twin...
    for one of my TQ midgets...
    Cut the cams turn one end 180* re-weld back togeather..
    change the plug leads..
    just don't try to rev it it 11,000 rpm... set the red line about 7500/8000
    and make use of the massive torque it will gain..
    I can understand limiting the revs with the engine firing more unbalanced, but do you really gain torque??
    I would have thought the road grip on dirt or gravel might improve, but why does engine torque change (if this was what you meant) ?
    Fairytales are the domain of infants ... Dreams are the stuff of progress.

  13. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by sootie View Post
    I can understand limiting the revs with the engine firing more unbalanced, but do you really gain torque??
    I would have thought the road grip on dirt or gravel might improve, but why does engine torque change (if this was what you meant) ?
    Total torque per engine firing cycle doesn't change but instead of getting it in four small lumps at pretty even intervals, it comes in two big lumps spaced further apart....technically, peak torque values seen at the clutch and gearbox are doubled....

    Which is why I said earlier i wouldn't give much for the cush drive in the Kawa clutch's chances of survival...they don't have a good reputation as standard.

    i'm curious about the GSXR though -I've built a lot of TQ GSXR's and wonder what the limiting factor was. I'd assume diff drive cos a std box would not take it. Mains cutting out with shaft flex ? That is a low rev limit....

  14. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Total torque per engine firing cycle doesn't change but instead of getting it in four small lumps at pretty even intervals, it comes in two big lumps spaced further apart....technically, peak torque values seen at the clutch and gearbox are doubled....

    Which is why I said earlier i wouldn't give much for the cush drive in the Kawa clutch's chances of survival...they don't have a good reputation as standard.

    i'm curious about the GSXR though -I've built a lot of TQ GSXR's and wonder what the limiting factor was. I'd assume diff drive cos a std box would not take it. Mains cutting out with shaft flex ? That is a low rev limit....
    No it was a chain drive car... but as you will know the GSXR750 had a weak 2nd gear when used as the main drive gear...
    We use to put GS1000 gears in... had to cut a new cerclip groove in the shaft... then remove the other GSXR gears so
    you only had in gear / out of gear..
    Pete

    90% of all Harleys built are still on the road... The other 10% made it back home...
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  15. #150
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    31st January 2012 - 16:09
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    At last I can contribute! First slow cook it like you would lamb shanks*: so get the crow in a pot and put in onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, beef stock and red wine, some herbs and whatnot, and cook it for a few hours till tender. reserve the liquid, and put the crow in the fridge overnight. When you want to serve it, roast it uncovered for 45mins or an hour till the skin is crispy. Meanwhile, get the fat off your cooking liquid and reduce it till syrupy. Serve with new potatoes and seasonal veges, sauce over the top and more on the side.



    *This works a treat for duck so should work with most game birds.
    have to find the photos of the ravens.. more meat than a crow..

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