Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 45

Thread: Chinese oversized radiators?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    6th October 2008 - 13:36
    Bike
    Freeride 250, BETA XT300
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,418

    Chinese oversized radiators?

    Has anyone had any experience with these 'made in china' alloy radiators? Do they do as they claim? ie: 25-30% cooler engine temp.
    From what I can see they have wider vanes which are double sided. How is their fitment and build quality? My factory coolant capacity is 1 ltr. Is it safe to say the fluid volume will increase to 1300ml with an oversized rad?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    2nd September 2008 - 22:18
    Bike
    Changes Weekly
    Location
    NGARUAWAHIA
    Posts
    2,339
    you should try one of those boysen high volume water pumps http://www.btosports.com/p/BOYWAT
    SHE LOOKED UP AT ME WITH BLOOD IN HER EYES
    THEN HER SKIN FELL OFF
    AND SHE PROMPTLY DIED
    IT WAS EBOLA, LA LA LA EBOLA

  3. #3
    Join Date
    6th October 2008 - 13:36
    Bike
    Freeride 250, BETA XT300
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,418
    Quote Originally Posted by flyingcr250 View Post
    you should try one of those boysen high volume water pumps http://www.btosports.com/p/BOYWAT
    Don't know if increasing the flowrate will help. The water churns through already. Actually wondering if I need to put a restrictor on the output end of the radiator. Water Wetter does diddly squat. Haven't tried a 1.6/1.8 bar cap yet...damn they're expensive for what they are!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    2nd August 2006 - 22:17
    Bike
    hopefully bringing something back to NZ
    Location
    Hartford Connecticut USA
    Posts
    4,109
    one of the yzfs we had last year had them they seamed ok cant say what the volume diff was just filled up sorry
    [SIGPIC][/SIG

  5. #5
    Join Date
    24th May 2008 - 21:24
    Bike
    some honda bits in a kx chassis
    Location
    Waiuku City
    Posts
    1,326
    The rated 25-30% increase, is a chinese measures so I wouldnt guarantee they will be 250-300ml greater capacity. Although its possible.
    You also need to consider that increasing the capacity will most probably affect the fitment, so be aware of that.

    Increasing the flowrate will help, although you need to be moving for it to make a difference.
    we may just go where no ones been

  6. #6
    Join Date
    6th October 2008 - 13:36
    Bike
    Freeride 250, BETA XT300
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,418
    Quote Originally Posted by noobi View Post
    The rated 25-30% increase, is a chinese measures so I wouldnt guarantee they will be 250-300ml greater capacity. Although its possible.
    You also need to consider that increasing the capacity will most probably affect the fitment, so be aware of that.

    Increasing the flowrate will help, although you need to be moving for it to make a difference.
    Thanks Noobi.
    I've read in an earlier post Scott makes mention of a cheaper aftermarket 1.6 cap MR MX supplied other than the standard Kwaka 1.6. ....I've read elsewhere Kwaka supply 1.6 caps as standard on their machines, KTM 1.8, Yammy/Suzi/Honda 1.1
    Do you know if you have any in stock?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    10th October 2007 - 13:13
    Bike
    Honda CRF250X
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    330
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool View Post
    Has anyone had any experience with these 'made in china' alloy radiators? Do they do as they claim? ie: 25-30% cooler engine temp.
    From what I can see they have wider vanes which are double sided. How is their fitment and build quality? My factory coolant capacity is 1 ltr. Is it safe to say the fluid volume will increase to 1300ml with an oversized rad?
    Yes they do hold more fluid, we was going to bring them in and sell to dealers but they are a bit rough and sometimes the sides are shaped to the point they look bent. From what I remember the CRF250X ones held about 150ml more each side than stock it could of been more but it was about two years ago now.

    Also the plastics shrouds do not always mount up flush with the holes in the rads.
    www.offroadimports.co.nz Stompgrip Road And Dirt, Hyde Hard Parts, BT Handguards, Scorpion Rad Braces.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    6th October 2008 - 13:36
    Bike
    Freeride 250, BETA XT300
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,418
    Quote Originally Posted by dafydd roberts View Post
    Yes they do hold more fluid, we was going to bring them in and sell to dealers but they are a bit rough and sometimes the sides are shaped to the point they look bent. From what I remember the CRF250X ones held about 150ml more each side than stock it could of been more but it was about two years ago now.

    Also the plastics shrouds do not always mount up flush with the holes in the rads.
    Thanks Daf,
    This is the one I am looking at. It seems reasonably priced and a lot cheaper than the other alternative in Oz.
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=524810211
    It's almost worth the punt for that price. A 20~30 psi rated bike rad cap would set me back close to $50 which is really a stop gap measure. Car caps are easy to find up to 16psi and are heaps cheaper but its hard to find one rated at 20psi.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    10th April 2008 - 12:42
    Bike
    SV1K
    Location
    East Auckland
    Posts
    384
    I put one on a KX85. From memory it cost $140 landed here with hoses (3). Quality seemed ok from new but fitment wasn't perfect and the plastic air flow fins seemed to rub on it which over about 4 - 6 months rubbed a hole in the alloy. I went back to the company (through ebay) and with an exchange of photos a new one was sent free of charge. In comparison at that time a new one was around $450 and an aftermarket one similarly priced. Get what you pay for I guess... It was slightly bigger, I think the base under the fins was about an inch deeper. Hope that helps.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    10th October 2007 - 13:13
    Bike
    Honda CRF250X
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    330
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool View Post
    Thanks Daf,
    This is the one I am looking at. It seems reasonably priced and a lot cheaper than the other alternative in Oz.
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=524810211
    It's almost worth the punt for that price. A 20~30 psi rated bike rad cap would set me back close to $50 which is really a stop gap measure. Car caps are easy to find up to 16psi and are heaps cheaper but its hard to find one rated at 20psi.
    Yep they are the ones price is good as I remember our buy price out of China was around $70-80 NZD so yes well priced.

    Do you have overheating issues?
    www.offroadimports.co.nz Stompgrip Road And Dirt, Hyde Hard Parts, BT Handguards, Scorpion Rad Braces.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    6th October 2008 - 13:36
    Bike
    Freeride 250, BETA XT300
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,418
    Quote Originally Posted by dafydd roberts View Post
    Yep they are the ones price is good as I remember our buy price out of China was around $70-80 NZD so yes well priced.

    Do you have overheating issues?
    My 14 y/o daughter rides a bigbore rmz and has a penchant to ride tight logged tracks at the sandpit. If she stops longer than a minute or two yep it starts to boil. Everywhere else she's fine. The overflow bottle I rigged up only helps so much. Over sized radiators and a higher pressure cap are on my shopping list so she can continue this urge.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    10th October 2007 - 13:13
    Bike
    Honda CRF250X
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    330
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool View Post
    My 14 y/o daughter rides a bigbore rmz and has a penchant to ride tight logged tracks at the sandpit. If she stops longer than a minute or two yep it starts to boil. Everywhere else she's fine. The overflow bottle I rigged up only helps so much. Over sized radiators and a higher pressure cap are on my shopping list so she can continue this urge.
    I see right the rads are a good start but take it from me you need to rig a fan up of some sort it will stop it from boiling instantly there are a few home made ones on ebay if you have the $$$ try find a KTM or Honda fan kit and make it fit if Suzuki don't make an aftermarket part?

    The high pressure caps are good we used to sell them but they can blow pipes off and in half.
    www.offroadimports.co.nz Stompgrip Road And Dirt, Hyde Hard Parts, BT Handguards, Scorpion Rad Braces.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    10th October 2007 - 13:13
    Bike
    Honda CRF250X
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    330
    www.offroadimports.co.nz Stompgrip Road And Dirt, Hyde Hard Parts, BT Handguards, Scorpion Rad Braces.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    2nd May 2007 - 11:33
    Bike
    Sandpit 2 Smoker
    Location
    The Sandpit
    Posts
    1,300
    I'd go for the fan option. My Berg used to boil really easily but since the fan has been fitted I can seriously bush bash with no over heating problems.
    Surely there are some after market ones out there.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    19th August 2012 - 19:32
    Bike
    1994 Kawasaki ZZR1100
    Location
    Milford Auckland
    Posts
    380
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool View Post
    Has anyone had any experience with these 'made in china' alloy radiators? Do they do as they claim? ie: 25-30% cooler engine temp.
    From what I can see they have wider vanes which are double sided. How is their fitment and build quality? My factory coolant capacity is 1 ltr. Is it safe to say the fluid volume will increase to 1300ml with an oversized rad?
    I don't understand why you would want to run an engine 25% cooler. (??) Car engines & larger bike engines have an optimum temperature at which they are designed to run all the time. The cooling system (including the fan) should provide more than enough cooling for any driving/riding condtions or you have a design problem. The thermostat is intended to continuously adjust the coolant flowrate so that engine temperature is always correctly maintained.

    Are you saying that you need more cooling to meet the conditions under which you operate some engine?
    (The old English cars pre-60s often suffered from this problem when operated in NZ.)
    An over advanced ignition, operating in 40 deg C temps or blocked radiator fins can obviously cause heating problems too.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •