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I sorted the overheating out by drilling a small hole in the side fairing and putting in a switch to the fan and I put a 5A fuse in right by the battery. That fucking throttle thing is still loose (the one that I tried to fix at Ruapuna). I added a couple of washers under the screws and it's still moving around heaps. I still can't figure out why it's raping headlight bulbs either when the voltage coming out of the headlight plugs is not much above 12V. Every 2 tanks of fuel it needs a new headlight bulb, just as well I bought them in bulk.
Just a thought, it could be arching at the switch, or you're touching the glass on the bulb when you change it? They'll hot spot and burn out quick as fuck if you get human slime on them
And what voltage is it throwing out at 5,000rpm?
Third thing: get a fucking big hammer
I never touch headlight bulbs with bare skin. If I do make that mistake, I clean it with a cloth that has high strength alcohol on it.
I'll have to find out the voltage some time at 5,000RPM, but I'll need to get it running first. Interestingly enough, the battery voltage is higher at idle than 5,000RPM.
Could run a meter over the lighting circuit and make sure it's not suffering a dirty connection if you like? On holiday from Friday fwiw.
Early next year I'm going to buy an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for all your carbs, so don't give up on it just yet. Park it up, get high, dont buy a 125 just save some money. Does it have a dynojet kit (or rather a worn out dynojet kit)?
Probably just needs a kiss and a cuddle... but that might be my bikes or maybe you're doing it wrong (it's not a Honda, so no tounge btw)
hehe, nothings changed since the ruapuna day then. Something is definitely going on bro and it will be fixable. Don't you have some "extra" wiring in there for ciggie lighter or radar or satnav or someshit? check out what thats doing to the rest of the bikes circuit.
Are they OEM headlight bulbs? maybe ur running some fake shit that can't take the heat!
over heating seems strange, if the fans normal auto on/off is working it should be able to regulate itself. I would remove the band aid and get the cooling system working again (it worked when it rolled off the factory floor, its not a complicated system)
The throttle assemble needs to be replaced or attended to by a plastic welder. The same thing happened to my aprilias throttle and clutch switch blocks actually, plastic welder to modify and get it clamping tight on the handle bar again. You could also buy skateboard sticky grip tape and wrap the handle bar with on layer then chuck the switch blocks n shit back on.. band aid tho!
Take up imdyings offer of giving it a going over with a multimeter.
thats odd, should be at its peak about 5,000 and should stay steady if u rev it higher. There are gremlins in there and are no doubt doing the damage to ur headlight bulbs and maybe even the running of the bike, ignition circuit etc.
I do have extra wiring in there for the radar detector, but the electrical issues were there before I did anything to the wiring. I've used a few different types of H4 headlight bulbs, and they all seem to have a very short lifespan. I'll take it to Roger at Road and Race Motorcycles and he can have a look.
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