Hi
as said all answers are IMO
I've ridden a bike for just on 39yrs. Bike has always been MY transport. I've owned just 5-6 cars in this time. When married, of course we had a car (hers)...
overall my time without access to a car has been over 15 yrs in total. The grocery thing can be a pain, decent panniers (throw over) Top box if you prefer or, as well, can carry most of a single persons shopping. Probably the biggest issue is when purchasing 'big ticket' items like TV, washing machines etc.... either use friends/family cars, or, accept you pay for delivery.
Bike? the new law enables you to purchase GOOD larger capacity bikes. Firstly you need to decide on what type of bike you want? If you are really only going to commute most of the time (I will almost guarantee it wont stay just commute for long) a dual purpose like the XT600/DR650/FG650/KR650 are your best bets. They are torquey, sit up high, so you can see over the tin tops and are manoeuvrable. There are also plenty of people racking up big mileage on them doing distance riding. They are reasonably economical, simple to work on, cheap to service.... As a student all those factors need to be taken to account. Shops have a fixed fee schedule for servicing... a single is usually around $300 upwards, a 4cyl $450-600 depending on whether its a minor (oil change etc) or a full (major) service.
regardless of being told how good they are and reliable... MOST 250's have simply been hammered the fuck out of day in, day out. Most sport 250's are high revving (15000rpm+) and need to have their necks wrung to get real performance out of them. I will add a disclaimer here, high revving easy to flick about bikes can be an absolute thrill to ride, but to me? Not as an everyday ride. Bikes like the XT/DR etc are no faster than the 250's but rev at only 50% of their redlines (around 8000rpm max revs) and are more 'usable' in power delivery. There are other options, and older 5-600cc 4 cyl can be a good buy if well maintained.... Z500/XJ500/GS500 all are good bikes IF well looked after. There are twin cylinder V or Parallel 250's that are quite competent ZZR/ZRX250, VT250, Hyo GT250.. these can be found in low K state, BUT often again have been owned by 1 or more young, enthusiastic (thrashes the fuck out of it) owner with low financial ability or know how to maintain it fully .... ALL high performance 250 can/will become a grenade if NOT well looked after. A 650 single will still probably be more economical than a 250 sprot bike, high performance comes at the expense of economy....
The gear?
there are many online sellers on tardme, My advice here, again personal opinion. DONT SKRIMP on what you pay. Even allowing for low overheads for a seller working from home, when compared to a retail shop... a $200 jacket is still 'budget bin'..... I own jackets ranging from the 250-300 to 600+ price bracket. There is a REASON the $600+ jacket cost that much. if you research the net on Cordura and similar materials the higher thread count (just like bed sheets) the better the material. MOST 'cheap end' jackets are around a 600 count.... for good protection it should be around 900
Again it's marketing... many jackets will have tags saying the armour meets or exceeds DOT/Snell/Euro standard..... read carefully how many actually have information on the abrasion resistance to the actual 'cordura' the jacket/pants are made of.
Leather is STILL the best 'abrasion resistant' material... at the expense of being the hardest one to dry out when wet..... a good compromise and often expensive is a cordura jacket with leather on the high abrasion areas... shoulders/elbows etc.
As for carting gear around? Either you will, or you wont... casual situations? there are kevlar lined jeans (tardme) available.. look as good as normal jeans, some offer a cargo pant as well.
Bike boots are the 'best' thing but a good pair of industrial 'cowboy style' (johnny reb etc) are pretty reasonable, lace up boots are going to leak... period.
Helmet? do you have a $100 head? then buy a $100 helmet.
Some dealers have 'run out' stock that is at a reduced price. Go to the SHARP site. it's a UK test facility that has got a rating for helmets and is a good guide to helmet safety. There ARE some 'cheaper' helmets that score very high. Expensive lids usually have the 'niceties' of removable washable liners, better 'construction' better fixings, strap design etc... again with careful watching tardme can be a useful tool to aquire some good quality gear at a lower price, Caveat Emptor.
If the road to hell is paved with good intentions; and a man is judged by his deeds and his actions, why say it's the thought that counts? -GrayWolf
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