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Thread: I just bought a KDX200

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by paturoa View Post
    You might give your credit card a fright!

    Extract the old bearings and take them to a bearing shop like this one just down the road from you.

    http://www.saeco.co.nz/newlynn.htm
    Me mate at Motoone seems to have the bits, http://www.mxshop.co.nz/catalogsearch/result/?q=kdx200

    He has linkage kits etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm84mxc View Post
    Looks she's had a hard life, get a Bills or Pro circuit and the muffler to check with Mr Motorcycles as they will have some , a fork kit will do wonders and a shock rebuild.
    The sub frame looks twisted , and these had a very soft seat great for comfort but can be a pain if touching the seat base.
    Ive planned for a fork and shock rebuild as the bike cost is so low. Are the sub frames hard to straighten?

    Was planning on a new seat cover with gripper material so if the foams soft I will redo it, or get Caveweta to do it properly after I stuffed it up.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  3. #18
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    You could easily sink a lot of time and money into this but its cool to save them. Even doing the work yourself the parts will add up.The E-series has quite a following in the states where a lot were sold. With it running rough and given its age you could be in for a bottom end and cylinder replate. The kips sub valves on the e bikes also regularly shear or chip gears.

    If you just want to get out and ride i would suggest a good h series. Having said that i hope you get this one running nice , good luck.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwynfryn View Post
    You could easily sink a lot of time and money into this but its cool to save them. Even doing the work yourself the parts will add up.The E-series has quite a following in the states where a lot were sold. With it running rough and given its age you could be in for a bottom end and cylinder replate. The kips sub valves on the e bikes also regularly shear or chip gears.

    If you just want to get out and ride i would suggest a good h series. Having said that i hope you get this one running nice , good luck.
    So would getting a new gears for the Kips is a good idea? Do you not bore the cylinders when they wear? Not worked on this type of 2 stroke before.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    So would getting a new gears for the Kips is a good idea? Do you not bore the cylinders when they wear? Not worked on this type of 2 stroke before.
    google 'nikasil'

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coldrider View Post
    google 'nikasil'
    Oh that's cool. So if the bore stuffed you can get it re-done. Seems like a great idea.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm84mxc View Post
    Looks she's had a hard life, get a Bills or Pro circuit and the muffler to check with Mr Motorcycles as they will have some , a fork kit will do wonders and a shock rebuild.
    The sub frame looks twisted , and these had a very soft seat great for comfort but can be a pain if touching the seat base.
    its an earlier E model, looks about a 91 to me, the later model e's (93-94) had upside forks,

    i would not bother with a pipe as the STD pipe as not too bad on this model, (the H model pipe was not great from the factory and a PC, FMF or BIlls was a much better option) money would be better spent on getting everything else fresh, the genuine pipes are No longer made, and the last time I tried to track one down it was not a goer 2nd hand, i am not sure if PC or anyone else are still making them new, if the pipe is really bad you can get a NZ made repair kit for the lower front of the pipe (which is the bit that rots out)

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    its an earlier E model, looks about a 91 to me, the later model e's (93-94) had upside forks,

    i would not bother with a pipe as the STD pipe as not too bad on this model, (the H model pipe was not great from the factory and a PC, FMF or BIlls was a much better option) money would be better spent on getting everything else fresh, the genuine pipes are No longer made, and the last time I tried to track one down it was not a goer 2nd hand, i am not sure if PC or anyone else are still making them new, if the pipe is really bad you can get a NZ made repair kit for the lower front of the pipe (which is the bit that rots out)
    Would that just be a patch welded to the bottom? Have read that you can open up the stock pipe on a E model and gut it as they are packed with sound deadening. That gives a good power gain they say. But im more wanting it running well etc over huge HP.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Would that just be a patch welded to the bottom? Have read that you can open up the stock pipe on a E model and gut it as they are packed with sound deadening. That gives a good power gain they say. But im more wanting it running well etc over huge HP.
    the repair kit is basically just the bottom section you weld into what you already have, Musket Mufflers make them and MR MC or any other decent bike shop should be able to get them,

    I did not think that they were baffled but have not taken one apart,

    the H model (95-06) pipes were baffled and horrible, infact very often you brought the pipe and muffler with teh bike on a kawasaki NZ speical,

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    the repair kit is basically just the bottom section you weld into what you already have, Musket Mufflers make them and MR MC or any other decent bike shop should be able to get them,
    Cheers good to know. Was in at Mr Motorcycles earlier, nice bikes there. Saw a few toys I may get for me bike once it turns up.

    Would like to do the Maize scramble but think Im pushing it for time.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  11. #26
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    Being new to 2 strokes and all, what 2 stroke oil should I use in it?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Being new to 2 strokes and all, what 2 stroke oil should I use in it?
    I'm using agip full synthetic in the DT, used that in the KDX250 too. Use a good bike specific oil, even shell from the local garage is ok. Castrol has the best smell but might be a vintage.

    Regarding the pipe. The KDX's are trail / enduro bikes & standard meant to be torquey not peaky. A lot of aftermarket pipes shift the hit to the top end. My 2 fiddly had an FMF fat fucker or some such on it. The bike needed a lot of clutching on hills & in gnarly stuff until it came on the pipe. After that it was a battle for traction or keeping the front wheel down. Not ideal for making progress in technical stuff.
    With the standard pipe on the DT it pulls from nothing & tractors up big hills. It's still quick at the top end but does not scare the shit out of me.
    Check out the power characteristics & noise of a replacement pipe. The fatty was pretty antisocial, you can hardly hear the DT. Double skinned & heavy but PC & fun. Have fun, compared to the XR you will wet yourself laughing & get those wheelies sussed. Like it or not.
    Manopausal.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by george formby View Post
    I'm using agip full synthetic in the DT, used that in the KDX250 too. Use a good bike specific oil, even shell from the local garage is ok. Castrol has the best smell but might be a vintage.
    :
    KDX's need good oil , esp the E model ones, use a fully synthetic 2T, (MR MC sells it bulk if you take your own bottle in)

    the most comman problem motor wise on these KDX are stripping the power valves, they are the older style drum type and oil spooge and jam them and strip the gears on them,

    DO NOT USE NORMAL 2 STROKE OIL FROM A SERVO, even the bike specific stuff is mineral,

    Castrol TTS is available from supercheap and it comes up on a deal every now and then,

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    KDX's need good oil , esp the E model ones, use a fully synthetic 2T, (MR MC sells it bulk if you take your own bottle in)

    the most comman problem motor wise on these KDX are stripping the power valves, they are the older style drum type and oil spooge and jam them and strip the gears on them,

    DO NOT USE NORMAL 2 STROKE OIL FROM A SERVO, even the bike specific stuff is mineral,

    Castrol TTS is available from supercheap and it comes up on a deal every now and then,
    Am I best then to rerplace these gears now? Are they easy to get ?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  15. #30
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    The only real way to know the condition of the power valves is to dismantle, clean and inspect.
    I wouldn't do this without a manual or at least someone looking over your shoulder who has done this before. I say this because there are a few traps like supporting the kips actuator shaft while undoing the left hand threaded nut.
    Not sure on parts availability for an E bike, Scott may know.
    As stated use synthetic oil and stick to a ratio like 40:1. Then make sure it is jetted correctly as this will make a HUGE difference to how the bike runs.

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