Me mate at Motoone seems to have the bits, http://www.mxshop.co.nz/catalogsearch/result/?q=kdx200
He has linkage kits etc.
Me mate at Motoone seems to have the bits, http://www.mxshop.co.nz/catalogsearch/result/?q=kdx200
He has linkage kits etc.
You could easily sink a lot of time and money into this but its cool to save them. Even doing the work yourself the parts will add up.The E-series has quite a following in the states where a lot were sold. With it running rough and given its age you could be in for a bottom end and cylinder replate. The kips sub valves on the e bikes also regularly shear or chip gears.
If you just want to get out and ride i would suggest a good h series. Having said that i hope you get this one running nice , good luck.
its an earlier E model, looks about a 91 to me, the later model e's (93-94) had upside forks,
i would not bother with a pipe as the STD pipe as not too bad on this model, (the H model pipe was not great from the factory and a PC, FMF or BIlls was a much better option) money would be better spent on getting everything else fresh, the genuine pipes are No longer made, and the last time I tried to track one down it was not a goer 2nd hand, i am not sure if PC or anyone else are still making them new, if the pipe is really bad you can get a NZ made repair kit for the lower front of the pipe (which is the bit that rots out)
the repair kit is basically just the bottom section you weld into what you already have, Musket Mufflers make them and MR MC or any other decent bike shop should be able to get them,
I did not think that they were baffled but have not taken one apart,
the H model (95-06) pipes were baffled and horrible, infact very often you brought the pipe and muffler with teh bike on a kawasaki NZ speical,
I'm using agip full synthetic in the DT, used that in the KDX250 too. Use a good bike specific oil, even shell from the local garage is ok. Castrol has the best smell but might be a vintage.
Regarding the pipe. The KDX's are trail / enduro bikes & standard meant to be torquey not peaky. A lot of aftermarket pipes shift the hit to the top end. My 2 fiddly had an FMF fat fucker or some such on it. The bike needed a lot of clutching on hills & in gnarly stuff until it came on the pipe. After that it was a battle for traction or keeping the front wheel down. Not ideal for making progress in technical stuff.
With the standard pipe on the DT it pulls from nothing & tractors up big hills. It's still quick at the top end but does not scare the shit out of me.
Check out the power characteristics & noise of a replacement pipe. The fatty was pretty antisocial, you can hardly hear the DT. Double skinned & heavy but PC & fun. Have fun, compared to the XR you will wet yourself laughing & get those wheelies sussed. Like it or not.![]()
Manopausal.
KDX's need good oil , esp the E model ones, use a fully synthetic 2T, (MR MC sells it bulk if you take your own bottle in)
the most comman problem motor wise on these KDX are stripping the power valves, they are the older style drum type and oil spooge and jam them and strip the gears on them,
DO NOT USE NORMAL 2 STROKE OIL FROM A SERVO, even the bike specific stuff is mineral,
Castrol TTS is available from supercheap and it comes up on a deal every now and then,
The only real way to know the condition of the power valves is to dismantle, clean and inspect.
I wouldn't do this without a manual or at least someone looking over your shoulder who has done this before. I say this because there are a few traps like supporting the kips actuator shaft while undoing the left hand threaded nut.
Not sure on parts availability for an E bike, Scott may know.
As stated use synthetic oil and stick to a ratio like 40:1. Then make sure it is jetted correctly as this will make a HUGE difference to how the bike runs.
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