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Thread: I just bought a KDX200

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Heres a pic of it from TM. Shes a little rough but running. I have tyres for it. Should make a nice little rebuild.
    You paid money for this

  2. #47
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    20th June 2011 - 20:27
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    So question for those that know. My 06 KDX200, I had a little tumble but no problem with the bike. But after the next lap I noticed fuel coming out the tube at the bottom of the carb which I presume is over flow. I turned it off at the petcock and it stopped, turn it back on and it leaked. But now at home it doesn't do it. Presume a bit of dirt got under the float valve?

    Will drain the carb and see what comes out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  3. #48
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    the float level could be a bit high, or as you said it could have just had dirt in there, or that the float valve is on its way out,

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    the float level could be a bit high, or as you said it could have just had dirt in there, or that the float valve is on its way out,
    I might just get a valve and change it anyway. Looks like I don't even have to pull the carb to do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  5. #50
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    no 2 strokes are great like that, just loosen and twist,

  6. #51
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    30th October 2009 - 14:11
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    I would remove the carb from the bike as this is the only way to check float height which is more than likely the problem. Even set correctly some will spill some fuel when the bike is leaned over , it shouldn't leak if on the side stand though.

    While the carbs off i would check the condition of the reed valves and have a look at what size main jet and pilot jet you have. They came jetted way rich from the factory a 42-45 pilot and 155 main will be close for you.

    Remove the air box lid (just leave enough for the cdi to sit on) and hopefully it has a ffm or pro circuit expansion chamber on it . leave the stock muffler but they are heavy.

    Then take the forks to Bruin engineering on the Shore.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwynfryn View Post
    I would remove the carb from the bike as this is the only way to check float height which is more than likely the problem. Even set correctly some will spill some fuel when the bike is leaned over , it shouldn't leak if on the side stand though.

    While the carbs off i would check the condition of the reed valves and have a look at what size main jet and pilot jet you have. They came jetted way rich from the factory a 42-45 pilot and 155 main will be close for you.

    Remove the air box lid (just leave enough for the cdi to sit on) and hopefully it has a ffm or pro circuit expansion chamber on it . leave the stock muffler but they are heavy.

    Then take the forks to Bruin engineering on the Shore.
    Its got a pro circuit full pipe. Why take the forks there? Do they have a mod?

    will check jetting.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  8. #53
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    The forks are its main weakness and many swap out these for kx forks. To do this though you really need the whole front end; triple clamps,forks,and wheel. Some machine work is required to press in the kdx stem.

    My bike was transformed by replacing the fork springs and valves. Tjebbe Bruin has someone who makes up something like the race tech gold valves but they work out cheaper.

    Its not something that has to be done but keep it mind.

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwynfryn View Post
    The forks are its main weakness and many swap out these for kx forks. To do this though you really need the whole front end; triple clamps,forks,and wheel. Some machine work is required to press in the kdx stem.

    My bike was transformed by replacing the fork springs and valves. Tjebbe Bruin has someone who makes up something like the race tech gold valves but they work out cheaper.

    Its not something that has to be done but keep it mind.
    Not really intrested in swapping the forks out but ive heard about running gold valves. Ive read that XR400 fork springs work out in them for someone my huge weight.

    Will contact him.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  10. #55
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwynfryn View Post
    The forks are its main weakness and many swap out these for kx forks. To do this though you really need the whole front end; triple clamps,forks,and wheel. Some machine work is required to press in the kdx stem.

    My bike was transformed by replacing the fork springs and valves. Tjebbe Bruin has someone who makes up something like the race tech gold valves but they work out cheaper.

    Its not something that has to be done but keep it mind.
    although the KX for swap (or KLX300) is great, the biggest gain in them is getting rid of the underhang of the fork that gets caught in ruts,

    I agree with you on the upgrade, springs makes a big difference, they are way to soft in the front from standard for any sort of fast work,

    the other mod i like is to get rid of the rubber handlebar mounts, DRC do a kit for $25 for alloy spacers, they are worth is as when teh rubber breaks down the bars move in even the slightest crash,

    teh H model KDX is a great all around bike, My old man could have any kawasaki he wants and he still trail rides his KDX

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    although the KX for swap (or KLX300) is great, the biggest gain in them is getting rid of the underhang of the fork that gets caught in ruts,

    I agree with you on the upgrade, springs makes a big difference, they are way to soft in the front from standard for any sort of fast work,

    the other mod i like is to get rid of the rubber handlebar mounts, DRC do a kit for $25 for alloy spacers, they are worth is as when teh rubber breaks down the bars move in even the slightest crash,

    teh H model KDX is a great all around bike, My old man could have any kawasaki he wants and he still trail rides his KDX
    But the DRC spacers are to small as i found out on the weekend. Can you get new rubber mounts?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    But the DRC spacers are to small as i found out on the weekend. Can you get new rubber mounts?
    where they the kawasaki ones? weird, thought they were all the same,

    yes you can buy the genuine ones which are not badly priced, or you can machine up something to go in thier if you have the tools to do so,

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    where they the kawasaki ones? weird, thought they were all the same,

    yes you can buy the genuine ones which are not badly priced, or you can machine up something to go in thier if you have the tools to do so,
    Not sure, they are Red. LOL

    Came with the bike and i had a small drop on the weekend and the bars moved. They can move a couple of mmm each way.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Not sure, they are Red. LOL

    Came with the bike and i had a small drop on the weekend and the bars moved. They can move a couple of mmm each way.
    they will be a bit smaller than the standard rubbers, as the rubber will crush as you tighten them, they should all bolt up tho

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    they will be a bit smaller than the standard rubbers, as the rubber will crush as you tighten them, they should all bolt up tho
    No, at fully tight they can move a bit. Just thought as it has oversize bar adaptor on it so the bolt may bottom out before its really tight. will look at that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

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