Thanks for reminding me how long it's taken to get this far. Not long till it hits the track now. I've seen an even smaller turbocharger on a scooter site, hmmmmm!
Thanks for reminding me how long it's taken to get this far. Not long till it hits the track now. I've seen an even smaller turbocharger on a scooter site, hmmmmm!
I was about to do that but saw I got beaten to the punch so deleted my post.
heck I remember this project back when you used to live in Auckland.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Wow, I instantly thought the outside pistons and keep the 2 middle ones... Wicked, can't wait to see some pics
Mint bro, like I said earlier I don't know fuck all about buckets but for some reason this intrigues me, maybe from when i used to tinker with old lawnmowers and chainsaws when I was a kid... Cool
Well done man
Built for speed, not for comfort
Updated photos
Going on my own instincts and what Drew said about a possible air leak I've been over the intake side pretty carefully. It all looked good and I recall taking a lot of care fitting the intake boots. In the end I backed out the butterfly stop screw all the way. It was a bit harder to start but now it idles at 1400rpm. It has no vacuum at idle. I have my old carb balancing gauges fitted with the MAP sensor off a t-piece to one gauge. If the revs are brought up a bit the vacuum climbs. With the bypass screws fully in, the motor will just about idle and a slight discrepancy on the gauges suggests the butterflies aren't perfectly synced so that might be tomorrows job. Then I'll adjust the bypass screws to balance it again and set the idle, though the screws don't seem to make much difference.
I knocked a bit of fuel out of it using the VE table. It kept on idling fine. It was fully warmed up and I've already reduced the warmup fuel multipliers to "0" anyway except at the lower temps. The main effect was it lost it's real sharp responsiveness so I've increased it again. It was running fine, I was just experimenting.
Got a bit of info from Ecotrons about the idle setup. I was already going there anyway but nice to know. I did need to adjust the throttle stop screw. It's pretty sensitive. I've also ended up setting the idle to 2000rpm in software. 1400rpm worked but it seemed a little erratic at the lower revs. So I've set the idle in software and then adjusted the throttle stop to get it working sweet. It looks like the Ecotrons system uses the ignition advance to regulate the idle rpm. If I screw the throttle stop in too far it backs the timing off as far as even after TDC to try and keep the idle down. It works but makes it twitchy. It was far better with the throttle stop adjusted out until the ignition advanced to around 20 degrees. I could then blip it and it just settled straight back to a nice smooth idle without undershooting. Not having the ignition advance swinging wildly about probably helped here. Having the throttle stop screw out too far also seemed to promote hunting of the rpm as the ignition advance swept back and forth trying to control the rpm.
It's pretty sorted at the low rpm now, with no load anyway. Definitely time for the correct generator rotor so I can rev it up on the dyno.
I'm going to have to make an engine brake as well. I'll then be able to install the Lambda sensors, run the engine at set revs and loads, and let the system self-learn. Once that's done it seems that by changing the Eco/rich switch I can instantly switch from stoichiometric to max power rich. I don't need to actually measure the load, the MAP sensor and TPS will take care of which bit is being tuned and there is a table to show which bits have been tuned automatically. The neighbours are going to love that - 12,000rpm and various throttle settings, 14,000rpm and various throttle settings, 16,000rpm, 18,000rpm and so on. Might have to build a quiet pipe instead of the dump pipes on it now.
First public outing was a failure with air in the fuel system. Bled it out with a new supply at home and away it went again. I'm going to have to make a little reservoir that is always full to feed the fuel pump. The main tank will gravity feed into that little one.
Yes ....
This is how I connected the Ecotrons and Ignitec TPS wires together.
The Ecotrons EFI TPS plug. I just spliced a (grey) wire and connector onto the white wire for the Ignitecs grey TPS input wire.
As Wobbly suggests, connecting the Ignitecs blue sensor earth wire to the 0V (green wire) side of the Ecotrons TPS might be a good idea too.
Up dated as suggested by Wobbly.
TZ and I had a bit of a chat about which fuel table is used when. Looking at his "load prediction table" it looked like it only ever looked at the TPS/rpm table. As a comparison I've looked at what I have for the 4 stroke and it's vastly different. Searching the manual - "Small engine EFI tuning guide - v2_6" for "weighting" brings up a description for the purpose of the table which seems to point to it being relevant when the throttle position is changing. My prediction table seems to split the difference 50/50 between the tables up to about 2000rpm and then only consider the MAP/rpm table.
I checked with Matt, and know we know that Ecotrons EFI software for 2T's comes with only the TPS Based Load map functioning and the Volumetric Efficiency map disabled even though we can still see it.
support@ecotrons.com
Re: Does a 2T ignore the VE map?
For the 2 stroke engine, it use A/N MAP in default and disable the P/N MAP.
Because usually the 2 stroke engine intake pressure change is very small, phase judgment is not very accurate.
You can log some data and send to us, if the intake pressure change is bigger, we can help you switch to P/N MAP.
Thx
Ecotrons Tech Support 001
Speedpro clued me into starting a run with the gauges then laying a map over them and the active cell would be highlighted in yellow. He also thought that it might be possible to change the settings on the fly.
I tried it tonight but could not figure out how to change the settings while the motor was running but being able to see which cell needs a tickle will be helpful. I got a few runs in before the dyno battery spat the dummy, I will change it out and have another go tomorrow night.
Not sure about tonight's results but one thing is for sure, my 330cc injectors are too big, I have ordered some smaller ones and its realy a two person job setting the EFI up. I need some way of videoing the screen so I can see which cells to adjust after a run and I can't fiddle with the laptop and keep the bike running at the same time.
Set the camera on the bench recording, looking at the computer and go about your bizzo.
I would have thought it was a two man job on the dyno anyway. Must be a bit of a juggling act to do everything by yourself.
Would it be much easier to put one of these injection set ups on a single cylinder four banger? Is it conceivable to make it direct injected by just hooking it up or would it all be different maps and shit?
Obviously it needs to run higher fuel pressure to overcome the compression.
Direct injection is banned by both the FIA and FIM...but you never know, Billy may be prepared to ignore that too..
In fact, Drew, where it is used, the injection port is usually down the bore where it's covered by the piston well before TDC, so I'd doubt if a very high pressure would be needed.
There are good reasons for indirect injection on a 4 stroke though, not least charge cooling and reducing valve temps.
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