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Thread: Questions you're too embarrassed to ask

  1. #211
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    8th February 2008 - 13:58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    You need more lift (so the valve is open wider and more gas can flow in), and more duration (valve open for a longer time).

    So the pointy bit needs to be higher and fatter.

    Removing metal from the shoulders will reduce duration, your valve will not be open as long, so less gas into the cylinder, less power. And the valve coming down with a bang off the lobe will probably cause valve bounce at lower revs so the motor won't rev out.

    Of cours eall of this probably results in a valve hitting a piston, or a broken cam chain, or a wrecked motor one way or other. It can be done, but you definately need to know what you a re doing. And expect to trash a few engines in the process of finding out what works. Or doesn't.
    Cheerssssssssss

    Typically how much more metal on the lobe? supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!

  2. #212
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    14th January 2008 - 14:44
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    Quote Originally Posted by whistlersmother View Post
    Cheerssssssssss

    Typically how much more metal on the lobe? supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!
    Do it, and post pictures of the result.

  3. #213
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    31st March 2003 - 13:09
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    Quote Originally Posted by whistlersmother View Post
    Cheerssssssssss

    Typically how much more metal on the lobe? supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!
    Increasing the height of the lobe will increase the flow, but not as much as increasing the diameter of the valve itself. You also avoid a valve piston clash.

    Lots of small valves opening a bit is better than one monty great big one too (high performance motors have lots of valves for a reason... or two)
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  4. #214
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    5th February 2008 - 13:07
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    cut the back off the cam and lower the lobe a bit, and then adjust the rocker up.

    remove the valve stem boss.

    DB
    Last edited by CookMySock; 20th February 2008 at 13:01. Reason: typo

  5. #215
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    27th February 2005 - 08:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by whistlersmother View Post
    supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!
    surely this is a pisstake, you are too tight to buy another cam but you are willing to fork out 400 for a welder, another cam would be cheaper

  6. #216
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    1st November 2005 - 08:18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DangerousBastard View Post
    ok this sounds like the go. So it seems that any stock detector is just too quiet ?
    Detectors becoming illegal ?? wtf? Is this real?
    There is talk (from our servants in Wellington's round mental asylum) of this. Only talk though.

    Detector. Does yours have an audio output socket? If so, Dick Smith is your friend.
    $9- or so will buy you a nice earpiece unit. Viola!
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

  7. #217
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    5th April 2007 - 08:33
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    Quote Originally Posted by whistlersmother View Post

    I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.

    the bike was free.
    spot the error

    I've got a couple: What is valve bouncing, and why is it beneficial when racing?
    And what is double clutching? TIA

  8. #218
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    26th January 2007 - 17:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by headlesschicken View Post
    spot the error

    I've got a couple: What is valve bouncing, and why is it beneficial when racing?
    And what is double clutching? TIA
    Valve bouncing is the valves moving at the max speed htey can go and being pushed to try and go more. Normaly results in damage to head if done much at all.

    Dubble clutching is when you pull the clutch in change the engine revs to match the new gear then let the clutch out again helping the bits in the gearbox. Mainly used in bikes with worn or old gearboxes.

  9. #219
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    26th January 2008 - 07:37
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    Anyone recommend a battery that wont go flat while the roads are icy? how much for one of those battery maintenance things?

  10. #220
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    One el-cheapo thing you can do with camshafts is to grind down the opposite side of the lobe. Then set your tappets again. Even better, grinding them down there, it doesn't matter that you're fecking up the hardening, as there's no pressure on them there.

  11. #221
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    22nd February 2008 - 09:23
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    Here is my BASIC QUESTION:

    How do you cope with specs and a full face helmet?

    Years ago I rode with an open face helmet - it was the only helmet style way back then - so no problems with sunglasses or regular specs.

    Now I am getting back into biking... got a helmet, found a bike, then the hassle of getting my prescription-and-expensive sunglasses or regular specs on. &%$#@#! I feel like cutting slots into the liner but this would not be a good safety idea.

    It take me ages to put on my specs, having to fiddle with both hands trying to get the spec arms or whatever they are called positioned on my ears so I can see without distortion. Heavy sunglasses are probably no problem since you can just shove and jam right where you want them to fit but my specs are not so thick and heavy, and at around $900 to replace you can see the hassle and worry.

    Any ideas? Will the helmet liner eventually ease up?

  12. #222
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    26th January 2007 - 17:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radar View Post
    Here is my BASIC QUESTION:

    How do you cope with specs and a full face helmet?

    Years ago I rode with an open face helmet - it was the only helmet style way back then - so no problems with sunglasses or regular specs.

    Now I am getting back into biking... got a helmet, found a bike, then the hassle of getting my prescription-and-expensive sunglasses or regular specs on. &%$#@#! I feel like cutting slots into the liner but this would not be a good safety idea.

    It take me ages to put on my specs, having to fiddle with both hands trying to get the spec arms or whatever they are called positioned on my ears so I can see without distortion. Heavy sunglasses are probably no problem since you can just shove and jam right where you want them to fit but my specs are not so thick and heavy, and at around $900 to replace you can see the hassle and worry.

    Any ideas? Will the helmet liner eventually ease up?
    the short answer is yes, a little. About how you are doing now is the best way. Or get a helmet that has the hole face flip up. Cost more but worth it (aparently)

  13. #223
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    22nd February 2008 - 09:23
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    Thanks McDuck. Don't want to pay more $$ on a new helmet at this stage but will check their prices. Going to shops or the petrol station, I want to keep my helmet on due to the hassle with my glasses. Short stints are OK I guess but of course it would not work in a bank and its dorky and uncomfortable to spend time browsing around in a shop with a helmet on!

  14. #224
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    14th January 2008 - 14:44
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    I've got a newbie question that's been bugging me since I got my bike. WTF is this thing for on the exhaust? Purely decorative? It looks like it's supposed to display a badge of some sort, but it would be much too hot for most materials.
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  15. #225
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    26th January 2007 - 17:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soul.Trader View Post
    I've got a newbie question that's been bugging me since I got my bike. WTF is this thing for on the exhaust? Purely decorative? It looks like it's supposed to display a badge of some sort, but it would be much too hot for most materials.
    exhaust guard?

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