1994 GSX-R750 forks?

[NickNZ880]

Hi Guys, have bought a 1991 bike with 1994 forks, one rebound damping adjuster body is way too high in the fork cap so obviously assembled incorrectly or working its way off the damper rod. I only have information on the 1991 forks, if anyone can help with how to get the top assembly off the damper rod, and correct setting for the adjuster body, that would be great!

Cheers

Nick

[Katman]

Hi Guys, have bought a 1991 bike with 1994 forks, one rebound damping adjuster body is way too high in the fork cap so obviously assembled incorrectly or working its way off the damper rod. I only have information on the 1991 forks, if anyone can help with how to get the top assembly off the damper rod, and correct setting for the adjuster body, that would be great!

Cheers

Nick

You need a special tool to push down the spacer tube to gain access to the damper rod lock nut.

[Drew]

Ummm, aren't the 94 forks cartridge type?

[NickNZ880]

Thanks for the replies, can make a setup to compress the spring and access the nut but the top assembly is nothing like the earlier type - I think it has a cartridge, but I have never worked on this type of fork before.

[Drew]

I think it has a cartridge, but I have never worked on this type of fork before.

Pretty sure they're cartridge style internals.

Hit up Robert Taylor for some advice. Seems funny that the clicker isn't sitting down properly, and kind of indicates the forks have been worked on by someone who didn't know what they were doing....Hope ya didn't pay too much for them.

[NickNZ880]

That's my impresssion, too. They were on the bike when I bought it, I just want a cheap hack to have some fun on.

[Drew]

That's my impresssion, too. They were on the bike when I bought it, I just want a cheap hack to have some fun on.

Pull them apart and investigate is my advice. Do it slowly and methodically, and know that you shouldn't have to force anything apart.

[98tls]

Hi Guys, have bought a 1991 bike with 1994 forks, one rebound damping adjuster body is way too high in the fork cap so obviously assembled incorrectly or working its way off the damper rod. I only have information on the 1991 forks, if anyone can help with how to get the top assembly off the damper rod, and correct setting for the adjuster body, that would be great!

Cheers

Nick

Forget that,post up some pics of the Jota eh....

[ducatilover]

There will be a spec to set the lock nut on the damper rod/top cap, for example: the locking nut needs to be Xmm from the top of the thread on the damper rod before assembly.
By changing how much thread it has above the nut will change how your adjusters work/seat


Or something.

[Drew]

There will be a spec to set the lock nut on the damper rod/top cap, for example: the locking nut needs to be Xmm from the top of the thread on the damper rod before assembly.
By changing how much thread it has above the nut will change how your adjusters work/seat


Or something.

Accessing lost memories....nuerons firing...AHA!

So, when they have been reasembled at some point, some idiot left the rebound clicker wound all the way out. Then when they put the caps back on them all the way down till the bleeder bottomed out. Or some variation resulting the same.

Problem is, if they were heavy handed about it they may well have damaged the needle and seat. The clickers are just bypass bleeders, tapered end on the rod, in a square edged hole. If you bottom them out to hard, the taper gets a ring worn around around it and all of a sudden what should be a fine adjustment, become an open or closed option.

Undo the lock nut, wind the cap up a bit, and screw the clicker in. After of course, you take the clicker out completely to check the surface of the taper.

[NickNZ880]

Thanks, Drew, what you say is kind where I was going with it, no choice but to pull it apart and see where it gets me. The other one seems less molested so I'll probably strip it as well and use as a reference for height setting 'cos I only have data for the earlier non-cartridge version. So if anyone can refer to a '94 manual with the data and oil volume that would be great!

[Katman]

If you give me your email address I'll send you a copy of the service manual.

[Drew]

Thanks, Drew, what you say is kind where I was going with it, no choice but to pull it apart and see where it gets me. The other one seems less molested so I'll probably strip it as well and use as a reference for height setting 'cos I only have data for the earlier non-cartridge version. So if anyone can refer to a '94 manual with the data and oil volume that would be great!

It's pretty simple to do the job, provided the bleeder isn't fucked.

Oil volume. With the cap off, and everything compressed without the spring in, and the fork sitting plumb, leave 120mm between the top of the fork tube to the oil level. Pump the cartridge up and down lots to bleed the fluid through it. Don't do this fast, or oil will squirt out the top all over you and the floor.

Use a small steel rule, and lower the 0 end right in to the fluid, stopping when 200mm is level with the top of the fork is how I measure the air gap. You can put a mark on a stick or summat if you like, just make sure it's clean.

Oil weights are a preferential thing, and completely dependant on what brand you get. The important number is the Centi stroke rating rather than weight, but you'd need to talk to the likes of Robert to guess the best.

If you give me your email address I'll send you a copy of the service manual.

This'd help a bit.

[NickNZ880]

Thanks for help, and Katman, if you have '94 info ( I have '91 manuals) that would be great - bigwinna1@gmail.com

[Drew]

If you're going to strip the forks completely, get some new slider/spacers and put them in. Play between fork tube and staunchin is common as fuck, because not many people ever service their forks properly.

It increases stiction because of the slight kink, so under brakes the compression stroke is hampered.

They're cheap, easy to install, and save on fork seal replacement.

If you do them, (obviously check for play first), or even just replace the seals, it is moocho importantè to seat the slider before trying to put the seals in.