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Thread: Killing engine with spider webs?

  1. #1
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    5th April 2005 - 12:57
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    Killing engine with spider webs?

    How frequently should a bike get it's spider webs blown out?

    Afraid I'm slowly killing my engine due to lack of exercise. It is running fine, just see soot is slowly building up at the exhaust tip in relation to a brand new exhaust.
    Service records are kept fairly up-to-date.

    Commute 5-7 days per week. Distances per trip are 3, 5 or 7km.
    The last long distance run was 30km 18 months ago in a 60km/hr zone across town and back again. The last hill climb was 2 yrs ago.
    Engine is typically kept in the lower half of the RPM range.

    Ever since I've gone back to University, have run out of time to exercise the bike. A proper exercise is defined as spending at least 2hrs in the saddle riding it in "relative" terms hard and fast on hills & flats. That'll make all systems nice and hot.

    So, am I killing my bike with lack of use?
    And how frequently should spider webs be blown out?

    Thanks,
    Horse.
    90% of the time spent writing this post was spent thinking of something witty to say. It may have been wasted.

  2. #2
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    1st July 2004 - 11:19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyingpony
    How frequently should a bike get it's spider webs blown out?
    I'm gonna take some stick here but ...
    A bike like that needs to be taken over 180km/h at least once per week, for at least 10 minutes.

    Nah seriously, you should be fine so long as the oil heats up... if not, try a slightly longer way home on a few days until everything warms up.

    White power around the oil window or milky appearance indicates that it hasn't had enough time hot.. that's condensating water... but that can be changed with a different type of oil. or so I am told.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehollowmen
    White power around the oil window or milky appearance indicates that it hasn't had enough time hot.. that's condensating water... but that can be changed with a different type of oil. or so I am told.
    Oil window definitely has got no white powder or a white milky appearance.
    Just the usual different shades of black indicating age.
    Must be riding enough for water condensation prevention.
    90% of the time spent writing this post was spent thinking of something witty to say. It may have been wasted.

  4. #4
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    I would think the high reving engine would help in this repect, I always hit 11k rpm before changing up except 1-2 and sometimes 4-5 in slow traffic. I only do 15-20mins.

    I should start letting the bike warmup a bit in the mornings? Would it be better for the bike?

  5. #5
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    Just bring it out to the next bucket racing event and have a go, that'll blow the cobwebs out!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gav
    Just bring it out to the next bucket racing event and have a go, that'll blow the cobwebs out!
    Yeah of course not having a race licence you'll have to get someone else to ride it, and I haven't broken anyone elses bike in at least a week and a half so I'm a safe bet
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  7. #7
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    29th May 2005 - 18:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehollowmen
    I'm gonna take some stick here but ...
    A bike like that needs to be taken over 180km/h at least once per week, for at least 10 minutes.

    Nah seriously, you should be fine so long as the oil heats up... if not, try a slightly longer way home on a few days until everything warms up.

    White power around the oil window or milky appearance indicates that it hasn't had enough time hot.. that's condensating water... but that can be changed with a different type of oil. or so I am told.
    180km for ten minutes? you'd start to get your feet wet wouldn't ya?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brains
    180km for ten minutes? you'd start to get your feet wet wouldn't ya?
    hahahah nice trainz
    i love evry one just some more than others

  9. #9
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    "Letting it warm up" before riding is a sure way to stuff an engine. When you're riding, the air flow and load make the engine heat fairly quickly and naturally, and wind around the exhaust prevents distortion due to localised heating. Just ride it. Unleaded petrol deposits carbon on the exhaust, regardless of how the thing's ridden. Sounds like you're doing the right thing. An occasional run out to Kaukapakapa wouldn't do any harm, though, and would clear your head so you can study better.

  10. #10
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    12th November 2004 - 09:11
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    Arrow Spider webs?

    Never, have pest control in the house and workshop. As far as feeding it the fat, as often as possible. But agree that at least once a week is essential. Also good for maintian ones own mental health
    Those who insist on perfect safety, don't have the balls to live in the real world.

  11. #11
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    GB500nz, are you for real? I thought running under load cold was a no-no? I let my bike get to the stage where it idles smoothly (1 or 2 mins?) and off I go. Is anyone else a non warmer?
    I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianGB
    GB500nz, are you for real? I thought running under load cold was a no-no? I let my bike get to the stage where it idles smoothly (1 or 2 mins?) and off I go. Is anyone else a non warmer?
    He's not kidding... but don't push it while it is warming up.. should only take a few minutes riding..

    I don't ever see the F1 cars or rally drivers have a coffee with the car idleing away before the race...

    But then again everybody seems to say different things .. different theories.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianGB
    Is anyone else a non warmer?
    Yep. Run my bike just long enough to put my gloves on, and sometimes not even that. Mind you, that's about 1 or 2 minutes, like you said, not the "I warm my bike up until the temperature on the gauge is bardy blah" that some people religiously do.
    The best way to warm a bike (or car) up is on the road, as it's the only way to get proper fluid circulation. Some bikes are actually ruined by excessive idling on the stand, like the camchain tensioner failure on VTR1000s is thought to be hastened by too much idling while parked.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  14. #14
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    All you really need to do is get the oil flowing freely around the engine and then avoid hammering it for the first 5 mins or so. Then she's yours. If you want encouragement to ride it, we can meet up and go for a ride?
    To every man upon this earth
    Death cometh sooner or late
    And how can a man die better
    Than facing fearful odds
    For the ashes of his fathers
    And the temples of his Gods

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman
    Yep. Run my bike just long enough to put my gloves on, and sometimes not even that. Mind you, that's about 1 or 2 minutes, like you said, not the "I warm my bike up until the temperature on the gauge is bardy blah" that some people religiously do.
    The best way to warm a bike (or car) up is on the road, as it's the only way to get proper fluid circulation. Some bikes are actually ruined by excessive idling on the stand, like the camchain tensioner failure on VTR1000s is thought to be hastened by too much idling while parked.
    It's not about fluid circulation,the pumps pump,whether the the bike is idling or on the road.A modern engine pumps sufficient oil/coolant at idle.
    The reason to warm the engine by riding,rather than idling is to warm the engine as quickly as possible and running at light loads does this.Wear occurs most when the engine is cool,so warming it up quickly is advantageous,idling does not do this as well as running under light loading.

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