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Thread: Upgrade advice: Thoughts on these super sports bikes?

  1. #46
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grashopper View Post
    Have a look here: http://www.kiwibike.co.nz/ (Yes, without the 'r') There are quite a few people here that highly recommend them, me included. There are loads of insurance threads with more information around here, too...

    Thank you for the feedback. They seems to a good provider with great customer service, will definitely go with them after I upgrade.

  2. #47
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Im not sure you can say that.

    Maybe stretched out bling bike would be better.


    Haha great spotting there Mossy.

  3. #48
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzmikey View Post
    I know of a 2002 R6 that is for sale with 21,xxxkm on the clock ....
    Hi Mikey, Thanks for the reply but I want a newer model bike , so 06' + model of R6 is what I'm after.

  4. #49
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustyrobot View Post
    I would most definitely recommend that you go through Kiwibike insurance brokers. I had a 'mechanical failure' on my bike, which was worth about $7500, and majority owned by the bank. The insurance company weren't going to pay out (as they didn't initially see it as an accident), and Dave at Kiwibike gave me great advice and took care of the process. In the end they paid out - if they hadn't I would have had no bike and still owed the bank $7000.
    www.kiwibike.co.nz

    If you are getting a loan for the bike you will be required to get insurance. Mine costs about $600 a year and I'm in my 30s. I spoke to someone last week who was paying $1000/yr on their (admittedly brand new) <400cc bike.

    From memory the Ducatis need a yearly service that cost in the range of $1200 (valve clearances), but I might have the frequency wrong. Sure someone here can clarify. I was lusting after a Duc and that was ultimately the thing that put me off. My Aprilia is about half that, but it still smarts. Talking of which - have you considered an RSV?

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-654811643.htm


    Wow! thats cool how they will look after you, good on them. I shall surely sign up with them after the upgrade.


    I honestly didnt know the about the expense of valve clearance on Ducati, that's pretty expensive. They seem to be like a luxury to ride I hope its not that much but doesnt look like it from what you have said. Yeah I like Aprila Rsv but the only thing I dont like on them is the bulky exhaust. I personally think they spoil the whole show But I think the bike will look much better with small exhaust. I've just looked up and you can get those shorty exhaust and they look good on the bike

    I've attached a link below:

    https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=sh...l%3B1200%3B803



    And that listing on trademe is already there on my watch list, I'd still give it shot if the buyer is happy to lower the price for it

  5. #50
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    1st October 2013 - 15:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by pratik8890 View Post
    I've read some good stuff about Mv Agusta F4 750cc and 1000cc but my only concern is the cost invloved in maintaining them but if its close to maintaining a Japanese bike then I have no problem buying one .
    Drooooool I have never seen these bikes, man they are purrrdy! Do it!

  6. #51
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    24th September 2008 - 01:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pratik8890 View Post


    I'd really like to know whats the cost involved in maintaining them ( how often does the biek require to change the chain and sprockets, oil and filter and any other stuff thats needs doing ) Would like to know all of these details so that I can have a seprate budget per anum to maintain it.


    .
    beside the quote button is another little box you can tick and do multi quotes, just fyi . . .
    as for the running costs and servicing, thats going to depend on how hard you ride, and how often you ride etc. I have chewed through a rear tyre (no trackdays) an 2600km on my old R1. I can make them last much longer too though. factor in the cost of things like oil and filter changes every 5000km or so, a can of chain lube lasts ages. a set of chain and sprockets should last you 20,000km+ unless youre doing something wrong. brake pads have a variable life depending on how smoothly you can ride the bike.
    bottom line is really that its impossible for us to give you an accurate idea of annual cost for running a bike without knowing all the other details, and knowing how you actually ride.

    your major services arent really that bad, especially if you save money by doing things like your own oil, fluid, brake pad changes etc etc, and they dont come around all that often.

    assuming you ride 15000km a year, at a guess, allow for a set of tyres $400-600, a couple of oil changes $100-$150, a set of plugs $80, maybe some brake pads $75, and add an extra couple hundred bucks for random shit. then theres your rego, and the cost of replacing things as they wear out like chain and sprockets, rotors etc etc

  7. #52
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazz View Post
    Drooooool I have never seen these bikes, man they are purrrdy! Do it!

    Yes they are, the thing i like the most about them is the sound and 4 mini exhaust at the back of the seat..



    Quote Originally Posted by tigertim20 View Post
    beside the quote button is another little box you can tick and do multi quotes, just fyi . . .
    as for the running costs and servicing, thats going to depend on how hard you ride, and how often you ride etc. I have chewed through a rear tyre (no trackdays) an 2600km on my old R1. I can make them last much longer too though. factor in the cost of things like oil and filter changes every 5000km or so, a can of chain lube lasts ages. a set of chain and sprockets should last you 20,000km+ unless youre doing something wrong. brake pads have a variable life depending on how smoothly you can ride the bike.
    bottom line is really that its impossible for us to give you an accurate idea of annual cost for running a bike without knowing all the other details, and knowing how you actually ride.

    your major services arent really that bad, especially if you save money by doing things like your own oil, fluid, brake pad changes etc etc, and they dont come around all that often.

    assuming you ride 15000km a year, at a guess, allow for a set of tyres $400-600, a couple of oil changes $100-$150, a set of plugs $80, maybe some brake pads $75, and add an extra couple hundred bucks for random shit. then theres your rego, and the cost of replacing things as they wear out like chain and sprockets, rotors etc etc

    I will be riding it only during the weekends if the weather is nice so yeah 15,000 km per annum sounds about right and I tend to lower the gear to reduce the speed so I hardly use any brakes unless I have to do a complete stop or when its really required. So I hope to get some extra longevity from the brake pads chain and sprockets etc. And I take your calculation is based on a Japanese bike?

  8. #53
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    17th September 2009 - 21:15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pratik8890 View Post
    Yip but they are the one I like the most and I've always been into sportsbike ever since I was a kid so they appeal a lot to me. And yes you are right so I will be doing some test rides oce I come across the right bike for sale on trademe and Yes Busa is the Boss!!!
    The ride style differences between most of the bikes you list is huge, you must be talented indeed, if you can ride a 749 smooth, comfortably and with accuracy, then jump on an R1, then onto an R6, and do the same, generally one platform will work better for any given rider than the others, for anyone normal that is........Just what have you been riding all these years, and just what kind of riding do you do?
    Speed kills-just ask the rabbit......

  9. #54
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300weatherby View Post
    The ride style differences between most of the bikes you list is huge, you must be talented indeed, if you can ride a 749 smooth, comfortably and with accuracy, then jump on an R1, then onto an R6, and do the same, generally one platform will work better for any given rider than the others, for anyone normal that is........Just what have you been riding all these years, and just what kind of riding do you do?

    I agree to what you say, I guess I will have to just find the right bike and evolve with it riding wise. Thank you for your feedback.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by pratik8890 View Post
    Yes they are, the thing i like the most about them is the sound and 4 mini exhaust at the back of the seat..






    I will be riding it only during the weekends if the weather is nice so yeah 15,000 km per annum sounds about right and I tend to lower the gear to reduce the speed so I hardly use any brakes unless I have to do a complete stop or when its really required. So I hope to get some extra longevity from the brake pads chain and sprockets etc. And I take your calculation is based on a Japanese bike?
    Well dropping a cog and using engine braking (on a little 250) isn't the best way to go IMHO if you are concerned with servicing cost. Brake pads are cheaper than engines If you are a fan of engine braking then perhaps you should consider a v twin sports bike.
    Legalise anarchy

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluninja View Post
    Well dropping a cog and using engine braking (on a little 250) isn't the best way to go IMHO if you are concerned with servicing cost. Brake pads are cheaper than engines If you are a fan of engine braking then perhaps you should consider a v twin sports bike.

    Thank you for this valuable advise, I wasn't aware of this. Will do this from now on. Ta

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluninja View Post
    Well dropping a cog and using engine braking (on a little 250) isn't the best way to go IMHO if you are concerned with servicing cost. Brake pads are cheaper than engines If you are a fan of engine braking then perhaps you should consider a v twin sports bike.
    Yeah I was thinking the same. Pads and discs are there to be the replaceable parts Should only ever have to worry about rationing them if you're getting brake fade in a tricky section and would like to live lol


    I'm just quietly going to mention the MV Agusta F4 again in the hopes of planting an subconscious seed =D

    Go on, have another look at those pipes.

    MV Agustaaaaa

  13. #58
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    14th August 2011 - 14:32
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    Take a 2013 Daytona for a ride.

    You owe it to yourself to know before spending your money.

  14. #59
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    14th September 2011 - 19:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road kill View Post
    Take a 2013 Daytona for a ride.

    You owe it to yourself to know before spending your money.

    Wouldn't Daytona 2013 be expensive? I just wanna spend 12 k max on a decent second hand bike out of my wish list.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tazz View Post
    Yeah I was thinking the same. Pads and discs are there to be the replaceable parts Should only ever have to worry about rationing them if you're getting brake fade in a tricky section and would like to live lol


    I'm just quietly going to mention the MV Agusta F4 again in the hopes of planting an subconscious seed =D

    Go on, have another look at those pipes.



    MV Agustaaaaa



    I ve been keeping an eye out on Trademe for 'em but there are hardly any around and the ones that are on trademe are wanting mora than 20k so that price range is out of my league for now but if a decent f4 750 or 1000 comes up in near future then i'll be more than happy to give it a crack.


    I came across this listing for a mint f4 1000 and the guy sold it for around 13k and it was a 09' model from memory. I wish I had the dosh that time. Any how I'm sure the right one will come along my way.

  15. #60
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    13th December 2008 - 18:22
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    Find a budget, then buy the newest bike that you can afford, that also meets all your other requirements. I saw with some bikes you mentioned "2005-2012", the 2005 model will likely cost less than half what a 2012 model of the same bike will cost, so it's a bit hard to give advice without knowing how much you really want to spend.

    Don't forget to have another $1000-1500 lying around to bring ALL the servicing up to date (including things like fork oil, brake fluid etc), unless the bike has a recent service history to prove these things have been done.

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