a lot of kits seem to use PVC spacers to set preload in shit forks like the ones on my super sherp -- seems a bit dodgey to me ???
Obviously new springs of the correct length and tension would be better, but if you don't want to pay for that, PVC tube is the other option.![]()
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
"PVC" pipe is a bit of a catchall there. Spacers, and they are just that, seem to usually be lathe cut from Schedule 40 or similar. As an engineering plastic PVC has a very high compression strength, and is perfectly suited to use as a spacer. Why pay extra for the tensile strength of metallic spacers when the only load they will ever see is compression?
Even the most well selected springs will need preload/sag "tuning" after installation by the use of such spacers. Just as your rear shock body is threaded for preload/sag.
Yep. I use high pressure tubing I turn down in the lathe.
Made a spacer that was too short and several 5 and 10mm ones to fine tune,
I emphatically disagree. Good design involves ( within sensible limits ) using the shortest possible springs and longest possible spacers, consistent with having enough stroke integrity of those springs so that they are safely above coil bind at fork full closed position. Why would you want to fill a fork up completely with a long and heavy spring? The longer the spring the more coils there are, the more coils there are the more friction there is and also area of rubbing to remove chards of metal off the inner fork walls
Last edited by Robert Taylor; 3rd May 2014 at 09:54.
We have on occassion seen such tube shatter but that was likely enhanced by their home made and unsquare nature. Also if there is any unfinished ''sharpness'' at the ends of springs ( such as we see with low cost springs such as Sonic ) thats going to play merry hell with such spacers.
But Im also averse to seeing spacer tube made out of ''virgin'' aluminium. The reaction with fork oil is very fast, discolouring it and destroying its integrity very fast. Its for good reason that with quality product you see such spacer tube anodised
Also the level of seal drag and how well the forks are aligned. Condition of linkage, etc. Low speed compression damping can also have a measurable affect. Try turning the clickers all the way in and then all the way out. Often you will get two different readings, believe it or not. Same with rebound, if you are making the bike hang up or hang down with the damping it wont settle readily back to ride height and will mess with your measurements.
Who is measuring it and with what etiquette will also affect the readings. I guarantee from my own experience that I could ask ten different guys to measure the same bike and Id get ten different answers. MX riders are the worst, if you can get them to measure anything in the first place after adjusting the backwards inclination of their hats.
Ok, took one out and gave it a thorough testing, 400km mostly gravel and twisties and the climb to 1600m up Mt Altimarloch which is a steep rutted track paved with loose rocks.
One is much better than two, minimal increase in brake dive and the front wheel stays much more planted and less likely to deflect on those gnarley climbs.
One is also better than none because two were better than none.
Oh I have also ended up with sort of progressive springs by default because of the spacing effect of 13.8mm from one intiminator in one leg... Bonus!
So guys, sharing is caring, donate your left intiminator to a mate.
chopperT, if you are not at least removing brake dive you should be back to Ricor because they have clearly sold you something that is not fit for purpose (for your bike) and if they dont address this they are crooks.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks