Jatz's travels

[JATZ]

I’ve never known a motorcycle resort before, certainly along way from the coast now

It was a nice place. The owners have only owned it since January. hopefully they do well out of it. It seemed quite full the night I was there.
Yeah.... It's been great being up in the hills, much coolerer

Did they give you the address? Badoomtish!…
Awesome trip James, nice pics, have fun!

LOL that's a good one Dad

[JATZ]

I've decided to take a day off in Lafayette (Georgia). Take care of domestics, update this before it gets to far behind, work out where I am, and how far I have to go.
Goodness.... I thought It was further. Gunna have to slow down
Back to the story.
I left the Inn and headed off into a showery morning, to see whether this Dragons tail would live up to all the hype. I found Deals Gap and hung a right onto the tail. It was alright... maybe if I wasn't on a loaded bike shod with knobblies and it was dry ? Less traffic than I was led to believe too
I rode it both ways I only took a couple of pics. This one I waited and waited for something to come 'round the corner so I could get an action shot. Unfortunately all there was, was 1 SUV



Still very scenic though



I stopped back at Deals Gap for the obligatory photo/magnet/coffee



There was a few more "Speedy" looking cars turning up now, Corvettes and Lexus's, But I'd done my dash there. I was off to get something seen to that'd been bugging me.
I haven't really been able to keep an eye on the front sprocket. The cap screws holding the cover on were to tight and made of cheese so they'd just rounded out. I didn't have a torx bit to force them either.
I'd googled up this place, back towards Robinsville, so called in.



It was run by Kid Rocks half brother unk: Real nice guy. He eventually got the offending screws out and replaced them with proper bolts. FWIW, sprocket is worn, but not as bad as I thought it would be
After chit chatting for a bit I made my way onto the Cherohala Skyway. Now that is a nice piece of road It seems it's a popular place to put stickers too



Right here the TAT dives back into the trees and continues on through wilderness area's /Forest parks.
I won't bore you with yet more pics of a V-strom/Trees, and gravel/dirt roads. But it was here I ran into my first other TATers. Having a break roadside. We had a brief chat and I cruised on. Making my way to into Tennessee and Talico Plains.
I rolled into Smithys camp (motorcycle friendly) but the place was locked. A sign said "ring or txt this number" I had no service, I should have Spark roaming has been pretty good.
Back into town, still no service.... find a library with wifi to have a google round and try work out this service issue. I could see a tower not 1/2 a mile from me. Wifi was pretty slow so I trotted of to a Hardys for a feed and better wifi.
Despite checking all settings, which hadn't changed, I couldn't work it out. I fired off a thing to spark help desk thing and went back to Smithys to see if they were there.
I got back, tried the door, nope still locked, but I could see someone coming out of a caravan I figured was the owner, so wandered over. The woman nutted off she was really unwelcoming, something about not going near people's homes. I was a good 10 meters away from it when she came out. She went into a side door of the office and her husband came out the front, followed by her. I apologized for startling her. Her response, and I quote " I dunno about where your from, but round here you go up to strangers houses like that, it ain't gunna end well for you" Say that with a real Tennessee drawl. The husband wasn't the friendliest critter I've ever met either, seemed a little weird
I paid for a site and wood and got well away from the crazy, still unsure whether I should hang around or just go somewhere else.
I stayed, set up camp, read some book, puzzled my phone issue and relaxed....

TBC

[JATZ]

Woke up next morning and I could see rain about the hills, so I started packing, after coffee of course. Unfortunately I didn't get finished before I had to duck back into the tent as the heavens opened, complete with thunder and lightening. It only lasted about an hour, and I was back into it. Finished off packing, just as another session started, so I retired to the communal area to wait it out.
When I eventually set off I knew the infamous Witt rd crossings were coming up. I'd been sent a vid by a fellow NZer who'd done it earlier this year.
I chickened out, didn't see the point in going along just to find out it was to deep, and re-joined the trail further on. This was section TN06. Vid guy had also said there was a section after Witt rd that was a bit rough, simiar to the Porika back home.
I think I was on it I didn't take any pics, I was to busy clinging onto the bike and trying not to fall off. It was hard work
Got through that section unscathed and carried on. Did another couple of sections, also saw my first bear on the trail, a mumma with her cub, then peeled off to find somewhere to stay, and ended up at Ocoee.
Just to give y'all a break from reading.... Trail pics





Everyone was feeling the heat



Next morning I picked up exactly where I left off and carried on. Being a Saturday there was a bit of traffic around. Family's out camping, mountainbikers, guys out driving round with their "bear dogs"
I ran into a couple of guys out trail riding where I took this pic



It doesn't really do the view justice. They said there was a storm a brewing, supposed to hit about 2:00
Crikey, I'd best get cracking then.
It was a good day to be riding in the tall timber...





I eventually left the forest and wriggled my way through lots of little sealed back roads. Passing this what appears to be abandoned factory



Pretty soon I was back on the dirt, although this one had a thick coating of gravel in places, which made life interesting I stopped to load up the next bit of trail, they do stop in some random places, and I could see the storm getting closer. complete with yet more thunder.



I got out to a main rd, exited the track and plotted a course for Lafayette. and found a room for a couple of nights.
Oh, yeah... phone seems to have sorted itself out, sim is roaming again

Will be back in a few days with more...

[JATZ]

Some other random things, while I'm here....
Sena helmet cam decided not to play ball before Elizabeth City. It's in the pannier till I get home where a warranty claim will be made hopefully. I mean, who keeps those receipts, really ??
Guy I was chatting to at Deals Gap, travelling solo from Pheonix via Florida mentioned how tough it was mentally. I'd never really thought of it like that I guess it is tough mentally, but also easier. A democracy of 1 makes it so
They have a lot of afternoon/evening electrical storms here, just had another one tonight. Who knew ??

[Moi]

Great photos. The ol' black tops are the way to see the US of A. Interstates are useful if you're in a hurry...

[JATZ]

Great photos. The ol' black tops are the way to see the US of A. Interstates are useful if you're in a hurry...

Absolutely I really try to avoid interstates, but sometimes it can't be helped. Did about 15 miles today on one. If you're not doing 70 mp/h or more everything, including trucks, just rushes on by.
I must say there has been way more seal than I expected on this TAT. Not saying it's a bad thing though, although some adv. purists would spit on me for saying that

[JATZ]

After a very very laid back day in Lafayette I hit the road again. Lots more little backroads were traversed. both sealed and unsealed. Over hills and down into a canyon, then back up the other side. I only took 2 pics all day.
This one first thing in the morning just outside my room



and this one where I was staying in Sewanee



What a nice little university town that is. Another major electrical storm that night too it was pretty cool standing at the window watching the sky light up.
Interesting too... my phone decided to not get service again. Maybe it's a Tennessee thing It'd been fine in Georgia, I'd ducked into Alabama between Rising Fawn and Stewart Gulch, and I assume it worked there. It appears to be back playing ball now
Then today I made an effort to stop more often. First order of business was to get back on the trail then follow it till I intersected with a semi major road, follow that till I hit another one, follow that.... then BAM !!! I was there... Lynchburg, Tennessee
The home of Jack Daniels, What a massive place. I didn't do the tour though . Massive operation, spread from one end of the town to the other. I only looked around the visitor center, bought a souvenir and trotted into town for a look.



stumbled across this guy playing checkers



I guess he took to long to make a move so the opposition left
Scored another souvenir, had a proper espresso and left. I'm reasonably confident only one of those souvenir purchases will make it onto the plane home
Heading back to the trail I stopped to take a pic of the storage warehouses. No advertising on them, just massive black buildings surrounded by barbed wire topped fences. Both sides of the road. The stream of delivery trucks were also stealth, just painted black with a small Jack logo on the door.



Panoramic image I wondered what would happen if a car/truck/ute went past while I was making the pic. Now I know
Have a look on google maps/satelite to get a scale of the place
With that out of the road I left.
Through cropping land



nice little stands of trees



Old houses, or sheds



I really liked this one



must be a lot of work goes into making one



The owners were just leaving as I pulled up, and with the words of crazy lady from Tellico plains fresh in my brain I hung back. They were leaving, so stopped to check on me, I asked if I could take some pics. No problem was the reply. Apparently the woman in the ute grew up there. and she was going to restore it to a livable state. That's a massive undertaking, I hope she succeeds
Also, the one further back down the road was where her father was born and raised. You could say they were locals ?
Other than that, nothing much to report.... Looks like another storm a brewin for tonight
Back in a couple of days or so..

[JATZ]

Jeebus... Had to look back through my pics to work out where I left off. Pretty sure it was a motel just of the interstate, near Pulaski, always a good spot to find somewhere to stay for cheap, and there's usually something that resembles food.
Anyway, I left Pulaski and carried on, more little back roads. Skimmed the edge of Lawrenceburg, then thought... I might as well get some gas, and something to eat/drink so backtracked. With that out of the road I set sail again.
Just as I was thinking it was going to be another day of mostly seal, I hit some somewhat loose gravel while being chased by yet another dog. Went round a couple of bends and there was a creek crossing



Knob creek it's called. Not to deep and only a little soft so no worries. After that it was all gravel in various states of repair.
I got to where the trail went into what looked like a private entrance way, the signs made it seem like it anyway



A quick flick around on the GPS and I had a work around that joined up further on It was all good
till I came upon this crossing



Slipperier 'n a NZ First leader it was Thought I was going down there, but managed to get through.
I made my way to Collinwood (Pop 970) and found a place to stay. It was undergoing renovations so the lovely lady had to clean it up for me and make it habitable. It was cheap though Turns out it was the only room in town too. Couple of other TATers turned up looking for lodging, but there was nothing. I don't know where they ended up. I warned them about the crossing before they left.
Both restaurants were closed too so I ended up at the diner/gas station thing



Food was below average, but it was worth it to sit there listening to the banter between the serving girls and the cook. Customers coming in were mostly greeted by first name, all in a thick Tennessee accent. I wandered back to the room...



Sat on the porch and watched the day wind down.



That's it on the right. Quite a few dogs and cats roaming the streets and a good portion of the locals driving past would wave. Friendly town, I liked it
The owner, a woman, who must've been inoculated with a gramophone needle, man she could talk was telling me about a place just down the road I should check out, further down the Natchez Trace >>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natchez_Trace
I had to check with her next morning to get the details of a book she recommended about the place I was going to visit.
Of course there was more coffee, chit chat and sausage, cooked by her friend Paul. Another local with a super thick accent. Took me a while to get out of there ....
I covered the 20 miles down to the spot, crossing into Alabama



and made it to Wichahpi commemorative stone wall







and because he hasn't been out much...



Interesting history... >>https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/...ive-stone-wall
I would really like to get my mitts on the book to find out more.
After that little interlude I got back on track





One of the many many many deer I've seen who actually stayed still long enough to get captured on film



and some cattle



I finished the day at a free camp just outside Waterloo



While I was sifting round the campground, looking for somewhere to pitch my tent, I ran into this guy



Robert E. Lee Voyles, I know that 'cause he gave me his card I had to get a couple of shots of his set up





That extra set of wheels on the draw bar he had to add as there was to much weight on the car and it was getting hard to control in the corners, just something he whipped up in his shed
I wanted suggest he could remove some of the 3 cube of firewood, but didn't. He seemed happy. Just travelling around the country in his eclectic/eccentric setup. I left him with a solar phone charger and 150w inverter I'd been given earlier in the trip and promised to send him a postcard from NZ when I got home. I will too

[JATZ]

I left Waterloo in the a.m. and got back on the trail. I had a waypoint marked, which said TN Switchbacks. I figured it was just sharp bends going left and right... I hadn't counted on the vertical switchbacks too Damn they were steep. No pics sorry
Followed by more gravel roads, another of those super slippery fords, this one with a small step running diagonally across it. Had to have a couple of goes at that Then made my way north to skim Savannah, before heading south again, through cropping country



I guess I've left the hills behind for a bit..
Over a bridge...



and got into Pickwick just in time for lunch and a look around. I tried to find Sam Corero's (the creator of this TAT, but failed, so went to the place I'd booked and retired into the aircon
I've had the handbrake on a bit the past few days. Rear tire is disappearing, front sprocket is looking sad and I don't have far to go to Little Rock where new rubber waits and a good service. That's not scheduled till next week though. No point in getting there to early, and hurtling off to look at all sorts of stuff might not be a good idea.
Anywaaaaaay....
I left Pickwick, after another unsuccesfull peek for Sam's house...
More seal, gravel and dirt roads



Glad it's not wet or I think that would be a nightmare
One closed road sign, but I still had to go check



I'm sure with 2 people it would've been doable.Then another.... Bridge closed sign, Once again I had to go check



The bridge was there, it was just blocked by machinery, dammit It was a bit of a walk to get down to it just to check too



Nevermind.... Find a detour and carry on



I got into a wee place called New Albany, found some aircon and finished for the day. Proper Mexican for tea too, and this place didn't have bullet holes in the windows like the last place back in Ocoee

Anyway, your all caught up now.

[JATZ]

LOL
Utube knows what I've been typing.



This is some of the stuff from today, as well as a bit of background of the trail

[JATZ]

Update time again... Probably the last one from on the road too

I left New Albany and wobbled my way along the trail some more. I think these were from that section, can't really be sure It all seems to blend into one these days. Catching a bit of shade and checking out where I was on the phone...



I was in a bit of forest apparently



I feel I need to share with the group the US election signs. They're all over the place... at intersections, on peoples front yards. But no massive billboards, just little 400X300 signs (approx) urging you to vote for such and such for Sheriff/Councillor/Tax collector/Chancery court clerk/Circuit clerk. It seems you need to be voted in to a position instead of applying for the job.
The big ones in the pic were an anomaly excuse the crappy pic too



Ayhooo, What I'm getting at, is it's much better than the visual pollution we get around election time IMHO.
Anyway, pretty sure I ended up in Batesville for the night. I got cracking next morning heading for the State line.
Crops on one side swamp on the other



Pretty sure this is rice



It's an interesting irrigation system they use.... just turn on a dirty big pump and flood the whole paddock I did see a few center pivots but they're few and far between.
Of course I had to stop here... It's mandatory



Chatted to the old geezer for about an hour, had a flick through his books of past TAT participants and enjoyed a frosty cold coke. It was pretty hard to drag myself away from in front of the AC unit, but it had to be done

Past more crops....



And before long I was on the bridge over the Mississippi river



And into Arkansas...



I think I'd done enough by this stage so found a cheap motel in West Helena and called it for the day.
Saddled up next morning and got out of town... Nothing really to report from this day, more back roads, the gravel was certainly thicker in Arkensaw with the odd dirt patch thrown in



I think that's the only pic I took all day, except for this one...



Why is it I can change the speed and odo to miles, but not the temp ?? Maybe because Suzuki know Fahrenheit is just a dumb measurement

It was getting kind of warm so, once again I pulled pin early in another cheap motel and draped myself over the aircon unit
Next day was just a short hop into Little Rock and get a decent service on the bike. The rear tire was done, the front I wasn't really a fan of either so that had to go, chain and sprockets were well due for replacement as well as brake pads. They gave the bike a thorough going over too.... It's just clicked over 50,000 k's
I had a look at the new P-strom 800 while I was there... Nice, but I can't see one in my future.
Grabbed an uber to my digs for the next 2 nights and that was me for the day...

[JATZ]

While the bike was getting a birthday, I had a wee snuffle around Little Rock. Not to much though it was a bit warm to be walking around.
I sweated my way along the riverside walk, through a construction site.... Some serious beams there, holding up a new bridge on the freeway



Across a foot bridge



Where I got to look down on an RV park... looks kind of sterile to me



And along to the William J Clinton Library and Museum



Where they made me tip out my water, it was going to be a tough trip back I thought
It was an interesting place, with replicas of the State room



and the Oval Office



That Oval Office is an exact replica of when Bill was president. Apparently his designer, when she was designing his office had everything duplicated, so they could have a replica like this in his home State. Sadly you can only go in if you're getting your photo taken behind the big desk.
I snuffled round for a couple of hours there... seems like he did some good stuff while he was in office, and I only saw one small bit, with no names or items of clothing mentioned, of course, of his minor indiscretion
S'funny what people are remembered for...
Anyway... lots of stuff there, very interesting



There was also a dinosaur exhibition



They mooved and made noises too.....GRRRRRRRRR!!!!...... eeeeeek
I picked up a magnet, first one in a while and got out. I couldn't face the walk back so hailed an Uber and waited. There was these decorated Globe things to look at while waiting





I couldn't just sit around all day, so wandered into the shopping sort of area just up the road.....



Holy Crap..... I thought I was going to die Notice there's no one else on the street ? I thought about getting a haircut, but my head was that sweaty, I couldn't do it. so beat a retreat back to the hotel. Only venturing back out to try catch the sunset....



Wasn't really the shot I planned, but it's all I got..
That's about it... Picked up the bike this afternoon and made my way back out to Beebe and another cheap motel... Ready to pick up the trail again tomorrow.

[Tokerau boy]

Often is it the poor quality tyres or rough terrain or the load of camping gear on the back ? only asking as I have not done anything like what you have traveled

[JATZ]

Often is it the poor quality tyres or rough terrain or the load of camping gear on the back ? only asking as I have not done anything like what you have traveled

That's a good question. I'm glad you asked...

The first change in North Sydney the tires were due for replacement, almost. I used that shop because they did the job last year and understand that the needs of a "traveler". The normal wait time for getting work done at that shop was 3 weeks. In Halifax it was 5 weeks.
Unfortunately, the tires they supplied were great on sealed roads, not so flash on gravel. Hence the second change. They still had plenty of life left in them.... That's where Elizabeth city dropped the ball. If they hadn't that would have been the last change. I took what I could get in Rocky Mount. It appears " adventure" style tires are not widely carried, or maybe my 17 & 19 in size tires aren't widely available. I spent ages on the phone, ringing various shops, with nothing available. Revzilla could send me a set of my preferred Heidenau K60's overnight, but it was a 2 week wait to get them from their supplier.
By the time I got to Little Rock, 2500 miles later, the rear was done, and I wasn't gelling with the front, it was o.k. but felt pretty unstable on lose/thick gravel.
Hence the last change in Little Rock. This set should get me all the way to Port Orford.

[JATZ]

Enough tire chit chat .... lets get this wrapped up

After a day in Little Rock it was time to go pick up the bike. Freshly serviced, new rubber, shiny new chain and sprockets and air filter. Apparently it was in very good shape for a 50,000 k bike. It seemed to be a lot smooother now too. It was early afternoon by the time I left, so it was just a short day, back to Beebe
A leisurely start next morning, after a massive breakfast and I rejoined the TAT. It doesn't look like I took any pics that day.... just the one of breakfast
I ended up in a place called Scotland, where there was supposed to be accommodation. I couldn't see anything, so beetled of to Clinton for the night. Nothing much to report there....
It was back to Scotland in the morning to rejoin the trail... I actually did stop to take some snaps this morning





An interesting fence



It didn't take long and I was back on some wee gravel back roads. Before to long though the track tuned to dirt.... After weeks of fine weather, there'd been a shower of rain over night, which made traction..... unpredictable
I got to this point....



and decided to pull pin. I figured it wasn't going to get much better for a while and the front tire was already binding on the front guard with the build up of clay and gravel



I made my way back out to the main road and continued on, rejoining the trail further along. Next stop was a lunch stop at a bit of an icon....





I had lunch, v.good burgers with a couple of guys from Missouri, who'd ridden down for the day. They gave me a couple of ideas for roads to ride in the area.



Ride with care ? As if....
Anyway....I ended up in Ozark for the night.
By this stage I'd run out of pre loaded GPS tracks for the TAT ( I only loaded what I figured I'd need) It was also time to start making my way back east to Greenbriar, slowly.
I spent a bit of time next morning plotting a route back east, picking squiggly lines from Google maps and finding them on the GPS.
It actually turned into one of the best riding routes so far.... Perfect mix of sealed road.



and dirt/gravel



Some nice views too



I was well chuffed with the day and ended up in a place called Mountain View.
What a nice, chilled out little town. They have an amphitheater there





I ended up at a BnB for the night, Had BBQ for tea and went for a wander around town.....



then spent the evening sitting on the porch yakking with the other guests. A perfect end to a great day.

Next morning was my final day of riding. Only 75 odd miles so it was a pretty late start. Got a haircut, picked up some fuel stabilizer and made my way slowly South.
I think this is the only pic I took..... of a random dam



Then made my way to Greenbriar and a shed to park the bike in for the next 10 months



I spent the night there with Cliff and his wife then Cliff dropped me at the airport next morning for the long trek home....