Question

[Magua]

Do either of these look like fuses boxes? In an awkward place they be.

[Ixion]

Nope. BUT -- I found a hint that some (not all apparently) of the Yami FZR250s (is what we are talking about, yes) , have the same setup as my SRX250. No fuses at all , instead a little circuit breaker . When it pops it turns off ALL current. To reset it you just push down on the top. It will be a wee box about 1 cm long , half a centre wide and high, with a squashy plastic top. Usually under the seat (well, that's where mine is anyway)

I don't like it myself, because it has to handle ALL current (except starter motor) it has to be quite heavily rated, which means that light weight circuits are not adequately protected. I've put in line fuses in mine.

Anyway , look for the CB

EDIT. Sorry, Should read the whole thread. I see Mr Speedmedic already said this.

[Magua]

I've had a thorough search and yes I managed to find one fuse, all alone on itself. It checks out fine though. I see the circuit breaker box, put pushing down on the box doesn't do much as it's hard on top.

[Ixion]

I've had a thorough search and yes I managed to find one fuse, all alone on itself. It checks out fine though. I see the circuit breaker box, put pushing down on the box doesn't do much as it's hard on top.

Little button on it somewhrere maybe

[Magua]

Little button on it somewhrere maybe

Not that I can see....can you? On another note I went over the bike with a multimeter and it's reading 12V. Kill switch seems to be fine.

[erik]

Have you had a look at the alternator cover that got damaged when the bike fell over?
I dunno if it's possible, but maybe it's damaged the electrics in some way (damaged wires or something)?

[Magua]

The bike wasn't going before I dropped it. But I'll have a look at it tommorow.

[bungbung]

I wouldn't think it would be the killswitch as the headlights are not working either. I'm going to try and scrounge a multimeter to have a play though.

Are you certain that your battery is good? yes?

As your battery is disconnected via your ignition switch, I would have a look at the cable entry to the connector blocks on the underside of the ig switch, looking for frayed/broken wires.

[Ixion]

Not that I can see....can you? On another note I went over the bike with a multimeter and it's reading 12V. Kill switch seems to be fine.

Eh - Do you mean that you have 12V at the kill switch . If so , it can't be the circuit breaker, cos that cuts power way before the kills switch

[bungbung]

So you have 12V at the kill switch, but no headlights/horn/indicators/brake lights activity at all?

[Groins_NZ]

Keep on with the multimeter.....

Check the main connections using your multimeter, i.e. stick the red/positive side from the multimeter into one of the connections (normally there is a red wire leading in to the connector, or red + another colour signifying positive side of the circuit ). Again, put the negative end on a good frame grounding to check you have a circuit.

Of course you'll need to have a little idea of what circuit your testing. It might be that the ignition switch is faulty i.e. your key is in the ignition and turned on but the ignition circuit is failing. You might have to pull off the front headlight etc to get at the wiring to test it with your meter.

[Magua]

So you have 12V at the kill switch, but no headlights/horn/indicators/brake lights activity at all?

I believe so. I wasn't using the multimeter a friend was, but he says it all checks out.

I think this is getting a little over my head. I'll try the multimeter again tommorow, but I think I'm going to have to drop the bike into the shop again.

[Ixion]

Keep on with the multimeter.....

Check the main connections using your multimeter, i.e. stick the red/positive side from the multimeter into one of the connections (normally there is a red wire leading in to the connector, or red + another colour signifying positive side of the circuit ). Again, put the negative end on a good frame grounding to check you have a circuit.

Of course you'll need to have a little idea of what circuit your testing. It might be that the ignition switch is faulty i.e. your key is in the ignition and turned on but the ignition circuit is failing. You might have to pull off the front headlight etc to get at the wiring to test it with your meter.

This could be . Li'l Ratty karked his ignition switch. The terminals inside the switch are very poor quality, the wires are not mechanically secured, just held on by the solder (like most Jap bikes - at least Mr Lucas did screw his wires in). The solder blob holding the main feed into the switch fell off, which killed everything , just like yours is. The lights are fed through the ignition (ie they go off when you turn the ignition off) so that killed ignition and lights.

I disassembled the switch and resoldered the connection. Was a bit fiddly cos there is very little tolerance on the size and position of the blob. Hardest bit was removing the light and mini fairing to get at it. The mountings are a bit of a pain, also

Find the wires going to and from the ignition switch. Find where they plug into. One set will be power in the other power out. See if there is power FROM the switch, in any key position. If so, it's not that . If no power, see if the wires they plug INTO have power. If they do it's a dud switch

[k14]

I'm wondering if there is a problem at the ignition, he's turning the key but it isn't turning the bike on. Maybe one of the wires there has fallen off or rusted out etc, have a look under where u put the key in.

**Edit** lol, should refresh a thread after its been there for a few hours.

[The Pastor]

Anyone who doesnt know what a fuse is shouldn't own a bike..........

Nice pictures.

Bring your bike round, I have heaps of stuff to play around with at my place... oh wait you cant bring it round.....