Please no hate no trolls, but I am a relatively new rider and I am just enquiring if tyres can go from tube to tubeless, is there any options if you have a flatty on a tubed tyre ? do those foam cans work ?
Highway Biker
Please no hate no trolls, but I am a relatively new rider and I am just enquiring if tyres can go from tube to tubeless, is there any options if you have a flatty on a tubed tyre ? do those foam cans work ?
Deus ex ukulele
Figure it out for yourself. Start with some first principles about why some wheels need tubes and what might be different for those that don't.
"Standing on your mother's corpse you told me that you'd wait forever." [Bryan Adams: Summer of 69]
Highway Biker
Like I said ..I am a relatively new rider and I am just enquiring , Im guessing because of spoked wheels ?Originally Posted by Hitcher
Unexpected Spanish inquisition
As a general rule on conventional spoked wheels like yours, no. (It has been achieved with varying success by sealing the rim with various methods, though I'd be skeptical of reliability and ease of use for this mod particularly on a road bike, use Google for more info, here's some starter info which covers most of it: http://adventure-motorcyclingh.com/2...ubeless-tyres/)
There are spoked wheels that are tubeless such as some model BMW's where the spoke is attached at the rim edge like this:
Or other styles (mostly aftermarket and expensive) where the spokes attach to lugs on the inside of the rim like these Kineo wheels on a Ducati SF:
Yes, repair or replace the tube (my 2cents says if you're going to get in there you may as well replace the tube) there are kits available with CO2 canisters and patches/cement etc., similar to this:
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/si...?itok=03iNV9tr
Most seem to come with the tube repair stuff as well these days, so you get to fix your buddies tubeless tyres too! Note that depending on the size of the tyre, more CO2 cannisters may be required, though the ones that come in the kit are generally good for about 20psi +/- in most tyres (using both) which should get you to a servo. If you're on a trip you might want to pack a small tyre pump in with your tools, some of the modern mountain bike ones are very efficient and quite small.
If you are replacing tubes, always try and go for a quality brand heavy-duty tube too as they are more puncture resistant being thicker rubber, downside is they do a little weigh more.
When you clean your bike or do any maintenance like chain adjustments/tyre pressures etc., take the time to inspect your tyre treads for any foreign objects - you may just save yourself a flatty out on the road! Also, replace tyres before they're totally worn out - can't remember the stats but I recall reading that a huge percentage of punctures occur in the last miles left in the tyre.
As a rule they struggle to work in tubeless tyres and in my experience are a complete waste of time for tube tyres, though I'm sure some people have had success with them. Not to mention they make a mess of the inside of the tyre/rim which has to be cleaned out.
Hope that helps, maybe spend a bit of time on Google armed with some of the above info (and opinions!) if you want to find out more.
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. After that, who cares? ...He's a mile away and you've got his shoes
Highway Biker
Thanks heaps cs363, much more helpful response and informationAs a general rule on conventional spoked wheels like yours, no. (It has been achieved with varying success by sealing the rim with various methods, though I'd be skeptical of reliability and ease of use for this mod particularly on a road bike, use Google for more info, here's some starter info which covers most of it: http://adventure-motorcyclingh.com/2...ubeless-tyres/)
There are spoked wheels that are tubeless such as some model BMW's where the spoke is attached at the rim edge like this:
Or other styles (mostly aftermarket and expensive) where the spokes attach to lugs on the inside of the rim like these Kineo wheels on a Ducati SF:
Yes, repair or replace the tube (my 2cents says if you're going to get in there you may as well replace the tube) there are kits available with CO2 canisters and patches/cement etc., similar to this:
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/si...?itok=03iNV9tr
Most seem to come with the tube repair stuff as well these days, so you get to fix your buddies tubeless tyres too! Note that depending on the size of the tyre, more CO2 cannisters may be required, though the ones that come in the kit are generally good for about 20psi +/- in most tyres (using both) which should get you to a servo. If you're on a trip you might want to pack a small tyre pump in with your tools, some of the modern mountain bike ones are very efficient and quite small.
If you are replacing tubes, always try and go for a quality brand heavy-duty tube too as they are more puncture resistant being thicker rubber, downside is they do a little weigh more.
When you clean your bike or do any maintenance like chain adjustments/tyre pressures etc., take the time to inspect your tyre treads for any foreign objects - you may just save yourself a flatty out on the road! Also, replace tyres before they're totally worn out - can't remember the stats but I recall reading that a huge percentage of punctures occur in the last miles left in the tyre.
As a rule they struggle to work in tubeless tyres and in my experience are a complete waste of time for tube tyres, though I'm sure some people have had success with them. Not to mention they make a mess of the inside of the tyre/rim which has to be cleaned out.
Hope that helps, maybe spend a bit of time on Google armed with some of the above info (and opinions!
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