Spooging 2 stroke. Mechanic?

[matrox02]

Hi All, Been fluffing about with my 1990 RMX250 for a little bit now and im growing tired and getting a bald spot from all my head scratching, Problem is, when hot, My rmx runs next to mint, when been sitting for a day + it doesnt want to start all too easy unless on a new/cleaned plug, and when i get it started it spooges something chronic, I know its got to do with jetting and float height and how hard you ride it vs oil mix setup ( running 42:1 ) , but im tired of fiddeling , i just want to have the issue fixed so i can just mix and go ( so to speak ), So, Who can point me to a decent 2 stroke guy in the Auckland Area?? I have friends that have had 2 strokes buy they even say its hard to get a decent 2 stroke mechanic these days

[awayatc]

Next time you got it running, before parking it up turn off fuel and wait till bike stops...
See if that makes starting easier next time....

otherwise carb adjustments not that hard to do...
All you need is google and a bit of spare time

( taking carb of and giving it a good clean would be a good start....)

[nzspokes]

Next time you got it running, before parking it up turn off fuel and wait till bike stops...
See if that makes starting easier next time....

otherwise carb adjustments not that hard to do...
All you need is google and a bit of spare time

( taking carb of and giving it a good clean would be a good start....)

Yes was thinking the same.

[scott411]

what sort of oil are you running? 42:1 is an unsual mixture ratio but within ball park, how many ml to 10 litres are you using?

how long does it sit between uses? unleaded fuel goes off pretty quick in carb's, if it has been any longer than a week, put the bike on its side before starting it to get the fuel out of the carb,

[matrox02]

Oh bugger, I was at the beach today with the bike and I wished a read this thread today, I would have been keen on trying to run the fuel off to see if it kept the plug from being too oily to spark proper every time I needed it to start, I'll try that next time, otherwise I'm using castrol power1 tts I think its called, otherwise if I run it and then then ride then stop it starts OK, leave for 15 + minutes its a bit harder to start, half hour + id have to pull the plug clean it then try, I'm wandering if maybe using a hotter plug may help, I usually run a b8ev but can only get b7ev at the moment unless I order them in, will it help or harm?

[matrox02]

what sort of oil are you running? 42:1 is an unsual mixture ratio but within ball park, how many ml to 10 litres are you using?

how long does it sit between uses? unleaded fuel goes off pretty quick in carb's, if it has been any longer than a week, put the bike on its side before starting it to get the fuel out of the carb,

I'm using 235ish ml to 10 liters, castrol power 1 tts I think its called, but I think I'll move to motul or repsol since my local stocks it

[scott411]

ok, all good on that front, if its only 15 minutes before its hard to start its not the fuel going off, try turning the fuel tap off, it might be leaking though the float valve, it would be a good way to check something off,

[husaberg]

Hi All, Been fluffing about with my 1990 RMX250 for a little bit now and im growing tired and getting a bald spot from all my head scratching, Problem is, when hot, My rmx runs next to mint, when been sitting for a day + it doesnt want to start all too easy unless on a new/cleaned plug, and when i get it started it spooges something chronic, I know its got to do with jetting and float height and how hard you ride it vs oil mix setup ( running 42:1 ) , but im tired of fiddeling , i just want to have the issue fixed so i can just mix and go ( so to speak ), So, Who can point me to a decent 2 stroke guy in the Auckland Area?? I have friends that have had 2 strokes buy they even say its hard to get a decent 2 stroke mechanic these days

If its in general running about and it isn't incorrect float or weeping float needle set up its running rich on the needle either the needle and the needle jet will be worn drop the needle by positioning it in a higher clip it will run better if it is a keihin ya f-ed without a thicker needle, you will have to find one to suit.
likely out of a similar but 125cc Keihin equipped engine.

One other point is the slow running on some Keihin is partly controlled by the choke,you twist the knob around it raises and lowers as they pw's have a different setup make sure this is correct refer to manual and keihin info of the net

If it is a Mikuni ya fine replace both with factory parts either way they are not expensive.

[matrox02]

If its in general running about and it isn't incorrect float or weeping float needle set up its running rich on the needle either the needle and the needle jet will be worn drop the needle by positioning it in a higher clip it will run better if it is a keihin ya f-ed without a thicker needle, you will have to find one to suit.
likely out of a similar but 125cc Keihin equipped engine.

One other point is the slow running on some Keihin is partly controlled by the choke,you twist the knob around it raises and lowers as they pw's have a different setup make sure this is correct refer to manual and keihin info of the net

If it is a Mikuni ya fine replace both with factory parts either way they are not expensive.

I'm glad its a mikuni then, I'm running the recommended 260 main and 45 pilot according to the FMF site for my FMF expansion chamber, and dropped the needle to leaner as it was smokey as all hell before and took ages to clear up, it runs better like this too, I think im running stock needle according to the part number, but haven't touched it , so I think I'll replace that next, the carbs float valve appears to be good as its not flooding and purging when sitting but I'll try starting with the tap off in case its doing something it shouldn't

[husaberg]

I'm glad its a mikuni then, I'm running the recommended 260 main and 45 pilot according to the FMF site for my FMF expansion chamber, and dropped the needle to leaner as it was smokey as all hell before and took ages to clear up, it runs better like this too, I think im running stock needle according to the part number, but haven't touched it , so I think I'll replace that next, the carbs float valve appears to be good as its not flooding and purging when sitting but I'll try starting with the tap off in case its doing something it shouldn't

Yes but replace needle and needle jet at the same time, as they both wear together. Don't worry, re he main or the pilot it is not a factor in the splooge.
If you're mentioning hard staring when hot rather than cold that also points to rich running. So is the needle now set to fully lean?

[Ocean1]

I'm glad its a mikuni then,

That Mikuni has a delicate float assembly, they have a reputation for sticking when worn a bit. Check the float where the valve touches, and you should be checking the valve tip and seat on any carb with those symptoms anyway.

Edit: this the beastie?

[matrox02]

Yes but replace needle and needle jet at the same time, as they both wear together. Don't worry, re he main or the pilot it is not a factor in the splooge.
If you're mentioning hard staring when hot rather than cold that also points to rich running. So is the needle now set to fully lean?

No, just 1 leaner, I can go one more if I need to, I'll look into getting both, not that I remember that the needle jet can come out...

[matrox02]

That Mikuni has a delicate float assembly, they have a reputation for sticking when worn a bit. Check the float where the valve touches, and you should be checking the valve tip and seat on any carb with those symptoms anyway.

Edit: this the beastie?

Yeah delicate is definitely the word for it, such a prick to set even with the right tools, and yep that looks to be the beasty

[husaberg]

No, just 1 leaner, I can go one more if I need to, I'll look into getting both, not that I remember that the needle jet can come out...

Well go full rich and see what happens then go full lean.........indulge me, it only takes a few minutes, then order the needle and needle jet.......

[gwynfryn]

From memory the rmx's that had the mikuni with the combined choke/idle circuit were terrible to set up even when new.
Swapping for a pwk was common and thats what I would do now. Even better go for a lectern carb and forget about jetting again!