It’s diametrically opposed to the sanitised existence of the Lemmings around me in the Dilbert Cartoon hell I live in; it’s life at full volume, perfect colour with high resolution and 10,000 watts of amplification.
Describe the two crashes after getting the suspension done. Are we talking couple of low impact slides or bigger crashes?
What did it hit and id it roll etc.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
I think what most are trying to say is that the experts ghave done thier bit on certain areas, now it is time to look at other parts that could be contributing to the problem.
Never been too sure as to what your trying to say.
Thinkin you might think "expert" actually means something quite different to what we think it means.
Trumpydom!
Quick search on the interweb fixes all the real world problems. There must be thousands of keyboard warriors with this bikes solve on hand left in a convenient step by step repair format waiting for the OP to find it.
Or it could be the forks are twisted in the headstock from one of the 2 accidents following the suspension and damper upgrades.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
go back to basic's first thing is string line the bike, checking the square of the front tire to the rear.
check for tire stagger ( the bike generally crabs with this issue )
check suspension linkages ( and pivots for play )
check headstock play
Just because a Reputable bike shop has checked doesn't mean they know what the fuck they are doing.
Could also be that the rider has undergone a little modification.
More aggressive now this is track only?
A bit stiff after 2 crashes?
Rider lost / gained weight?
Spending more time in attack mode?
Sometimes when a rider complains about head shake
In particular corners or at particular speeds you can see them waving their throttle arm between gear shifts like a chicken trying to achieve flight. When you see it you can see all that input translating steering input.
Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
Take a few minutes and watch this video, among other things that needed to be remedied his clamps were bent in an accident and as I recall (watched it a few weeks ago) he was experiencing front end wiggle wiggle
Had the same problem on my GSXR when accelerating out of some corners. I just rechecked all my suspension settings and then gave it one more click on the front rebound damping.
Why do you think he is here asking on this forum? Otherwise he would be running back to the guy who set it up. If you knew anything about bikes and track setup then you would know that every track is unique. So some fuckwit wannabe in America has no idea how to set up a bike for Taupo.
Weather conditions temperatures etc on every day is different, why do you think the worlds best MotoGP & WSB teams spend days getting a bike set up? The expertise he is looking for is most likely found right here in NZ where the professional tech's and racers have data and research from experience with his bike model and others similar. This is the best way to baseline set his bike for the specific track. Most of these people can be located right here on NZ's friendliest Motorcycle forum
Oh and FYI this shit (below) shows your ignorance.
This is along the lines I was thinking. The correct suspension settings are not written on stone tablets. If the rider puts on, or loses, weight that will effect things. If the ability of the rider improves so that he is going faster that will also effect things. So, of course, will damage to the bike.
I have here a copy of "Sportbike Suspension Tuning - How To Improve Your Motorcycle's Handling and Performance" by Andrew Trevitt and I commend this work to anyone who wants to understand their bike's suspension. (No not my copy, y'all can buy yer own.)
The book contains a suggested course on how to fully understand what effect the various suspension adjustments have. It also contains a trouble shooting guide.
"High frequency headshake on smooth pavement. Likely cause: insufficient trail
Add trail by lowering rear ride height, reducing rear preload, lowering the fork tubes in the triple-clamps, adding front preload, or decreasing triple-clamp offset."
Those suggested solutions are all separated by an "or" not an "and". When altering settings it is best to change just one at a time otherwise you won't know which change worked.
If I may make one other suggestion? Ask a friendly mod to move this to the "Frame Suspension and Final Drive" forum where it's just possible your thread may attract the attention of people who can help, anyway it should attract less attention from people who almost certainly can't.![]()
There is a grey blur, and a green blur. I try to stay on the grey one. - Joey Dunlop
I loosen the forks on the clamps on the MX bike quite frequently and pump them to resettle them to get rid of any twist from the many offs we have when riding.
I'm bloody sure some days the bike feels different/better after??
Except for the Cassina (miss never wrong) Showsome good suggestions.
Do the measuring and alignment for sure
Small suggestion: Grip with the knees and least amount of grip on the bars when powering out, if the bike still does it, its the bike, if it doesn't, its prob you??
That was part of a lesson at superbike school TBHFully cleared up the countersteering myth for me to
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On a Motorcycle you're penetrating distance, right along with the machine!! In a car you're just a spectator, the windshields like a TV!!
'Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out! Shouting, ' Holy sh!t... What a Ride!! '
It’s diametrically opposed to the sanitised existence of the Lemmings around me in the Dilbert Cartoon hell I live in; it’s life at full volume, perfect colour with high resolution and 10,000 watts of amplification.
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