If your disc is warped it pushes your pads back out when wheel rotates.....
can be mistaken for need to bleed....
If your disc is warped it pushes your pads back out when wheel rotates.....
can be mistaken for need to bleed....
Opinions are like arseholes: Everybody has got one, but that doesn't mean you got to air it in public all the time....
If its not a floater is there a lot of chance its warped? Maybe if its taken a knock.
After getting my wheels powder coated the discs were forcing pads away like this because of a small amount of paint on the mating surface. Discs slight out of line. Not fun on the front end when you need pump fast to stop
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
Someone else mentioned up ending the bike to get the calliper bleed nipple to the top. Just wondering if the brake hose does a bend over the swingarm? As in; the high point of the hose is above both the calliper and the master cyl? If so you can have a fair bubble of air sitting in there. No amount of bleeding will help as the bubble will always stay at the top, obviously. Try whipping the calliper off and bleeding it whilst holding it up so there's an obvious route for any air to make it to the bleed nipple.
My Triumph is like this and I have done all this before. Thought your set up might be similar?
Of course all the cleaning servicing type advice is worthwhile also.
Do us all a favour, by bringing yourself up to speed, before pulling onto the motorway.
You're fuckin shitting me, did someone actually suggest that? that's kinda like the old joke about how many Irishmen it takes to change a lightbulb, one to hold the lightbulb & three to turn the ladder. Wouldn't it be easier to dismount the caliper & turn that upside down? But hey, I'm no expert.
i think this guy was trying to bled his brakes that way
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPHd_2RJHyU
Another issue I've noticed a few times, is when someone has adjusted the lever movement to a point where the moving piston seal inside the master cylinder can not retract enough to expose the 'from the reservoir' intake hole. This means the master cylinder can't suck from the reservoir, and get enough fluid the presser the line for the next stroke.
While bleeding, you should be able to observe the reservoir fluid level go down, down, down. If it goes, down, up, down, up, While Bleeding.... that could be the problem.
make sure you put a different colour brake fluid in each brake system, ie one colour in the front and a differrent in the rea, that way you'll be able to identify which brakes are leaking.
Thanks for the advice guys!!
All sorted.....
Didnt have to to pull the brakes apart all though will rebuild them next month when have available funds
All ready to be re vinnd next week
only thing that needs a good deal of work now is my riding![]()
I have a similar problem. What was the fix in the end?
The fix for me was that im a idiot
I had bled everything in the wrong order
I bled the master from the banjo to make sure there was not air in it, then bled the caliper the right way round, and vuala all fixed.
i had bled it the wrong way meaning the air and crap was just getting pushed around and not getting out of the system.
Indeed, I've seen a number of Trials bikes with out of the way but poorly thought out rear callipers. And yes, lifting the rear up on a crate while leaned on the fence is the easiest way to do it without the calliper moving around, you only have so many hands.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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