Full License Soon - 600cc or 1000cc?

[Shaun Harris]

Love my thou....

Compared to the 600 - yeah, straight lines are jolly exciting but actually, if you are up for a cruise, you can have a great time, be bloody quick but not have to crash through the gears or hear 11'000rpm all the time.

You can leave it in 5th (or 6th), and just let it burble along twisting the happy grip whenever you want an explosion of torque.

Also, weight isn't a massive difference.... 10kg between GSXRs. I add 10kg when I wear an extra jacket in winter!

Ride both, see what you like, enjoy!!!!!


And fuel consumption? They're bikes. You'll still be doing better than your average cage so who cares.

Great comparrison mate

[n3Xro]

I've just been through the exact scenario you are looking at.

I went the thou on the basis that I seem (so far) to be able to stop any stupid behavior with my right wrist.
When I was buying (back in Feb) every 600 I looked at was high K's or out of my budget... the thous' seem to sit a little lower in the price bracket with lower k's so just keep hunting.
I dont imaging I'll be finding any limits on the gixxer anytime soon given that 1st is still under 9k/rpm just shy of the 100kph mark...

Coming form a ninja 250 what I am loving most is being able flow from corner to corner and through straights without having to be constantly up and down the gear box a 600 will probably give you the same effect. The thou pulls like crazy from idle and only gets sillier form there but it all comes down to can you keep your right wrist in check, if not you probably wont have the bike or your license for very long...

Size wise going from the 250 to thou I have noticed the difference in weight at slower speeds <20 and in slow maneuvers (parking lots etc) but once its on the road I haven't noticed any significant difference in its flick-ability.
If you can go and test ride a 600 and a 1000 see which you like most.

I haven't had my thou long enough to comment on the ongoing running costs but all bikes are gonna hit you in the pocket, so just make sure that whatever you choose gives you a big grin when you fire it up.

[caspernz]

Why are you only looking at supersport bikes? My bike's a 1000, but it has less power than some 600's. Z1000, Hornet 919 etc. are bigger bikes, but probably an easier step to than a 600 sprotty. A lazy thou will surge forward on an easy torque wave. Compared to having to go through the rev range and dancing on the gear lever of the 600.

A 600 will have plenty of HP at 13,000rpm. A lazy thou will make similar HP 5000rpm earlier, and stay in the power for longer.

So what you're kinda alluding to here is that a Busa or ZX14 have the best of both worlds then? Up to 4000 rpm for commuting, up to 7000 rpm for a spirited ride, and above that for life and/or license threatening thrills...

To the OP, the running costs of a bigger bike are incremental really. I mean, you can shred a set of tyres just as quick on a 600 ridden hard versus a 1000 ridden with a bit of restraint. The only real question you have to ask yourself is whether you've got the discipline for a bigger bike. I'll be honest and admit that if I'd had something like my current Busa when I was 18 with only a year or two experience...I'd most likely have been dead in short order. Everyone is different, and only you can decide your next bike. It's fun choosing though isn't it?

[mossy1200]

I think young guys on 600s like to try prove their bikes are fast therefore push limits even further.

[EJK]

Power and speed will be least of your worries. Consider the cost difference in insurance, registration, servicing, tyres, fuel (litre bikes do consume bout 20-30% more depends on the throttle) and other usual running costs.

It all depends how and how much you ride but tyre cost will take a big chunk of your riding budget. If I were to buy a bike again, I'd go for a bike that fits 180 tyre size for the rear cause they are a lot more common and cheaper (more deals too, e.g. last deal from cycletreads was "buy rear get front fitted free").

Insurance will be cheaper on any smaller bike than a litre supersport. Usually it's the litre supersports that pays the most premium (because insurance companies thinks they crash the most).

Rego is not that big but still about $130 more per year on a litre bike.

Service and maintenance cost may probably similar between R6 and R1 since they are both high-performance full faired bikes. If you choose to go European (KTM, Aprilia, or BMW), multiply the service cost by some margin. For my last 10,000kms service I paid $940 and that was considered cheap. Mind you, recommended service intervals for Japanese bikes are every 6,000kms.

Last summer I rode about 13,000kms and went through (approx numbers only):
$590 1 year registration
$100.20 per month insurance = about $500 for 5 month's worth
Two maintenanc services ($550 and $940) = $1490
Two sets of tyres (Metzeler M5s 120/70 and 190/55 at $530 per set) = $1060
About $60 of fuel per week (including weekend rides) = 20 weeks x $60 = $1200
And other things... $$$

Approx total spent on my bike last summer alone: $4840 + $$$ other things. That's about a grand per month running cost.

Don't get me into bike accessories like Akrapovič slipon exhaust, carbon bits and tank grip pads etc = $$$

[Erelyes]

Anyone who feels the need to ask someone else '600 or 1000' isn't aware enough of their own abilities to ride a thou. IMHO.

I have anecdotally heard of two riders who killed themselves on a thou, weeks after getting their full. I have also heard of one rider who almost, but for the grace of god, killed himself on a 600 weeks after getting his full. In my mind, the 600 is safer as a next step, but only marginally - if you open the taps on either it'll blow your mind compared to a 250.

There is also a school of thought that says you'll be a better rider by riding all sorts of bikes, progressing through the ranks so to speak, than going straight from a 250 to a thou.

Have a read of this article and see if it gels with you.

[FJRider]

FFS. There's all the power you need for the road in just about any 600cc road bike.

There's plenty of dam good 400's that would keep up with a 600 cc bike on most rides.

Horsepower is not the only factor ... actual size and weight play a large part of the ability to stay in control on (and safe) on the road.

It's more fun to ride a slow bike fast ... than a fast bike slow.

Ability upgrades do not come with a full license.

[Swoop]

I was going to comment (but EJ has already done so, quite eloquently) about insurance costs.

Perhaps ring around a couple of insurance companies and ask what you are in for, with your current riding experience and what you are thinking of upgrading to.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Hi all ,

I'm getting my full soon - yes! So... I'm looking at getting an R6 as someone told me that that's all the power you really need on the street.
but I've had so many different opinions about it i'm not sure. I only ride on the road... ideally i should try riding an R6 then an R1 shortly after to see what i prefer.

"You can Borrow my R1 Stranger" - Tui

Don't be a big girls blouse. S1000RR or nothing.

[FJRider]

I was going to comment (but EJ has already done so, quite eloquently) about insurance costs.

Perhaps ring around a couple of insurance companies and ask what you are in for, with your current riding experience and what you are thinking of upgrading to.

Under 25 costs for cars ... are in arm and a leg territory ... for a motorcyclist with a brand new full license ... a promise of your first born's virginity might be required ... (regardless of it's sex)

[EJK]

Under 25 costs for cars ... are in arm and a leg territory ... for a motorcyclist with a brand new full license ... a promise of your first born's virginity might be required ... (regardless of it's sex)

Mention it's a "sports" bike and they'll take your first 20% home mortgage deposit too

[flashg]

Under 25 costs for cars ... are in arm and a leg territory ... for a motorcyclist with a brand new full license ... a promise of your first born's virginity might be required ... (regardless of it's sex)

Vero insurance (David Golightly scheme)charges for the value of the bike if you have full license. My son @ 18 had his full, ticked up an R1 same value as mine and paid same insurance cost. So you can get good deals "shop around"

[Smifffy]

Get a GN 250 until you are sure what you want.

[aws]

I doubt you'd notice the difference between a thou and a 600 if you're moving up from a LAMS bike. Someone used to a thou would definitely notice the drop in torque going down to the 600, but you don't need to worry about that.

I'd agree with many of the others here that you should start smaller and hone your skills. It also gives you something to look forward to for the future. But try a few bikes before you decide - there's more to see out there than just R1s and R6s.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Ripperjon]

I went the 600(ish) route after a good innings (nearly 6 years) on my 250 and am chuffed to cobblers with my bike.
Thousands(ish) havent interested me since the olden days of the FZR and the original Fireblade (when i was too young to get them).
I just dont see anything attractive about any of the newer litre(ish) bikes as a whole package (performance/price/looks).
If all bikes cost the same, i wouldn't swap my bike for any other.

Like others have said, test ride a bunch, buy your favourite then be careful with it and enjoy.