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Thread: Full License Soon - 600cc or 1000cc?

  1. #31
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    why not a 1300/1400cc bike?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    If you know how to use tools and can read a workshop manual you could possibly do a lot of the servicing yourself and only pay the shop for something you cant do. With some bikes a lot of the labour cost is actually in taking things apart and putting them back together again as opposed to paying for any parts replaced. I doubt if the majority on here would spend anywhere near $1000 a month running their bike unless they were into racing.
    Depends on the bike. Like EJK, I have a BMW which needs factory tools that are not available to the average mechanic, even bleeding the brakes may require the tools. There is an aftermarket option, but it's hardly cheap.

    Some of my figures are higher than EJK, and I know mossy reckons 50c/km, so on 13k it would make $6500...
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
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  3. #33
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    okay. Who hijacked cassinas account?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
    Depends on the bike. Like EJK, I have a BMW which needs factory tools that are not available to the average mechanic, even bleeding the brakes may require the tools. There is an aftermarket option, but it's hardly cheap.

    Some of my figures are higher than EJK, and I know mossy reckons 50c/km, so on 13k it would make $6500...
    Only because I buy them at max value and then pimp them and then don't ride enough and sell them for half what they owe me.
    Im what you call a Bunny.
    That's only loss on the bike also. It didn't include running costs, consumables and insurance.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    One advantage a 1000 will have if you are doing a lot of straight open road riding will be better stability in side winds which makes a safer more relaxing ride not having to worry so much if at all about being blown off the road. As others have said though handling on hills will not be as good due to the heavier weight.
    what fuckin planet do you live on?

    a modern 1000cc sports bike is basically dimensionally the same as a 600cc.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    What fuckin planet do you live on yourself I wonder? as it is the heavyer weight of a 1000 over a 600 that offers improved stability in side winds. Going by your logic if a 50cc bike was identical dimension wise it would be equally as stable eh. Maybe you need to ride some diiferent size bikes on windy days to understand what I mean?
    My GSX650FU was as Stable as my Hayabusa, The weight difference between some 600 and 1000 bikes can be as low as 10 Kg. Weight certainly helps with Bike Stability - but as Nodrog correctly pointed out - the dimensions are almost identical, which means the aerodynamic properties of the bike will be almost identical.

    The only real difference I noticed was when I went from a 250 naked bike to a 650 faired bike.
    Physics; Thou art a cruel, heartless Bitch-of-a-Mistress

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    What fuckin planet do you live on yourself I wonder? as it is the heavyer weight of a 1000 over a 600 that offers improved stability in side winds. Going by your logic if a 50cc bike was identical dimension wise it would be equally as stable eh. Maybe you need to ride some diiferent size bikes on windy days to understand what I mean?
    you fuckin muppet, a ducati panigale weighs less than a er650.

    maybe you should read some books dated after 1989.

  8. #38
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    Some great advice here.

    DIY maintenance: heaps of it is your garage, if you have one then all things become possible. Simpler bikes tend to dramatically reduce the bills for parts / tools / labour. Fully faired latest and greatest race replicas with all the tech tend increase them.

    Ongoing costs: depends on bike size, but also a lot on how you ride. If you like to take it to the edge then you can expect frequent and pricey tyre and brake disc changes, and that's if you don't have to pick up a crash repair bill sometime.

    Try a few bikes, don't limit your choices and regret it later. You might be surprised at what turns out to be right for you.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJK View Post
    Power and speed will be least of your worries. Consider the cost difference in insurance, registration, servicing, tyres, fuel (litre bikes do consume bout 20-30% more depends on the throttle) and other usual running costs.

    It all depends how and how much you ride but tyre cost will take a big chunk of your riding budget. If I were to buy a bike again, I'd go for a bike that fits 180 tyre size for the rear cause they are a lot more common and cheaper (more deals too, e.g. last deal from cycletreads was "buy rear get front fitted free").

    Insurance will be cheaper on any smaller bike than a litre supersport. Usually it's the litre supersports that pays the most premium (because insurance companies thinks they crash the most).

    Rego is not that big but still about $130 more per year on a litre bike.

    Service and maintenance cost may probably similar between R6 and R1 since they are both high-performance full faired bikes. If you choose to go European (KTM, Aprilia, or BMW), multiply the service cost by some margin. For my last 10,000kms service I paid $940 and that was considered cheap. Mind you, recommended service intervals for Japanese bikes are every 6,000kms.

    Last summer I rode about 13,000kms and went through (approx numbers only):
    $590 1 year registration
    $100.20 per month insurance = about $500 for 5 month's worth
    Two maintenanc services ($550 and $940) = $1490
    Two sets of tyres (Metzeler M5s 120/70 and 190/55 at $530 per set) = $1060
    About $60 of fuel per week (including weekend rides) = 20 weeks x $60 = $1200
    And other things... $$$

    Approx total spent on my bike last summer alone: $4840 + $$$ other things. That's about a grand per month running cost.

    Don't get me into bike accessories like Akrapovič slipon exhaust, carbon bits and tank grip pads etc = $$$
    Exactly, keeping the spending in check has more of an effect than which bike you start with.
    I have found it doesn't make much difference the mileage I spend about 10k a year on riding.

    If I am doing more mileage I tend to spend less money on farkles and nice gear and more money on rubber, fuel and servicing.


    Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

  10. #40
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    600cc sports bike would be my choice - having owned both 600cc sports bikes as well as 1000cc sports bikes. a 600cc sports bike is going to be much more powerful than say a detuned 600cc naked or semi-sport type. 600's are generally much more usable on the road than the 1000's are, although they still need respect. I had my 600 let the rear wheel go in the rain a few times and would easily power wheelie in first or a brutal change in to second under full throttle. 1000cc is too much of a step up from a 250 LAMS bike IMO and are the equivalent of surgery with a chainsaw for NZ roads. Also - a 600cc sports bike is going to feel like a rocket after riding a 250...trust me!
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  11. #41
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    Just get an SP2 put an optimist yacht mast/rigging on it and have the best of many, many worlds.
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  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    What fuckin planet do you live on yourself I wonder? as it is the heavyer weight of a 1000 over a 600 that offers improved stability in side winds. Going by your logic if a 50cc bike was identical dimension wise it would be equally as stable eh. Maybe you need to ride some diiferent size bikes on windy days to understand what I mean?
    If you had just said 'heavier bikes are more stable' instead of 'thous are more stable than 600s' you wouldn't have come across so dopey. But then I come from a planet where you say what you mean.
    "It's hard to keep an open mind, when so many people are trying to put things in it"

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erelyes View Post
    If you had just said 'heavier bikes are more stable' instead of 'thous are more stable than 600s' you wouldn't have come across so dopey. But then I come from a planet where you say what you mean.
    yeah, naaa, i know this is a response to cassina's post but using that logic then my wing would be easier to ride in the wind than the zzr, personally i find the zzr a whole lot easier in the wind than the wing. both are fully faired bikes, the zzr pulls down on to the road as speed increases and becomes more stable to a point, the wing well, that just might as well have a sail out
    and yes cassina i have ridden a lot in canterbury norwesters as well as our gentle gale force breezes we have down here on the south coast at times so have a reasonable idea of what im talkin about, and yes i know that might be considered dangerous by your standards but hey, sometimes i just like to ride

  14. #44
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    For sale BMW K100CR. Never ridden in the rain or wind!!!
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    What fuckin planet do you live on yourself I wonder? as it is the heavyer weight of a 1000 over a 600 that offers improved stability in side winds. Going by your logic if a 50cc bike was identical dimension wise it would be equally as stable eh. Maybe you need to ride some diiferent size bikes on windy days to understand what I mean?
    And what fucking planet are YOU from ... bike size (length/width) and weight are not totally/consistantly dependent on cubic capacity.


    Wind strength and direction is never consistant on any ride either ... pretty much a lottery in that respect.

    If you actually had any amount of riding experience on real rides ... you would know that already.


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