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Thread: Talon hubs on 2011 YZ250 *HELP*

  1. #1
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    16th November 2015 - 13:34
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    Talon hubs on 2011 YZ250 *HELP*

    Hey guys new member here, so I've bought a set of gold talon hubs w/ excel rims second hand. I was told they would fit my 2011 YZ250 but unfortunately that isn't the case. The part number on the front hub is TW731AG which from looking online suits 98-07'. Now I've been told that I can get a talon rebuild kit (bearings, sleeve, spacers) to suit my bike which is ok. Just wondering when Yamaha decreased the front axle diameter? Because as it is now I get a lot of play between both the front and rear axles in the sleeves/spacers (which with the talon hubs run right through the hub and go between the bearings and axles).



    Now the biggest problem is the rear hub, as I cannot find any part number apart from the number 125640, which shows no information online. So now I'm left with a hub I can't identify, has anyone had a similar problem? One would assume it would suit a similar YZ model as the front wheel which says 98-07'. Although I thought the rear axle diameter has been 22mm for years and didn't change by 2011? If the rear hub is the same width as the talon hub that would fit my bike, would that rebuild kit work to be able to mate this wheel onto my bike? There is probably at least 5mm play at the moment so maybe it was on a YZF or something. Why is there no part number on this hub like the front, could something be hidden under the sprocket? Any help would be appreciated and please share any similar experiences you've had with this sort of problem. Cheers Jason


  2. #2
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Certainly I have no idea of Talon PNs or YZ fitments. But have done many wheel transplants and its all simple stuff for the most part. , . with a little luck.

    So why do you want these on? To replace or swap back and forth with std wheels?

    Biggest thing is the discs and sprocket alignment. What can you tell us about that?
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  3. #3
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Bearings will have numbers on them. Internet will tell you the size, so say 6304 will be 52x20x15. You may find a bearing that has the same outer and a smaller inner. Width can be made up for often.

    Given that you can get bearings to suit both, get the local engineer to turn up an inner support (spacer between the bearings in the hub) same as std but to suit your new axle diameter.
    Find seals to match new bearing.

    Front axle should be sliding shoulder and might position front wheel and disc in right place. Or it might need a shave. Get the disc same distance as std away from leg and you can't go wrong, but the sliding plate can deal with a few mm if needs be.

    The rim can be centralised by loosening every 2nd spoke 1 turn and tightening the alternate spokes 1 turn. Can move the rim easily quite a bit, without going crazy.

    Then you are left with a spacer. Use the std too big one and selected washers to get it right. Then get smaller spacer turned up to match.

    If needs be you can get the centre spacer turned so it slides into the std bearings, but this isn't so easy and not really a job for aluminium.

    Rear is much the same but two spacers
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Bearings will have numbers on them. Internet will tell you the size, so say 6304 will be 52x20x15. You may find a bearing that has the same outer and a smaller inner. Width can be made up for often.

    Given that you can get bearings to suit both, get the local engineer to turn up an inner support (spacer between the bearings in the hub) same as std but to suit your new axle diameter.
    Find seals to match new bearing.

    Front axle should be sliding shoulder and might position front wheel and disc in right place. Or it might need a shave. Get the disc same distance as std away from leg and you can't go wrong, but the sliding plate can deal with a few mm if needs be.

    The rim can be centralised by loosening every 2nd spoke 1 turn and tightening the alternate spokes 1 turn. Can move the rim easily quite a bit, without going crazy.

    Then you are left with a spacer. Use the std too big one and selected washers to get it right. Then get smaller spacer turned up to match.

    If needs be you can get the centre spacer turned so it slides into the std bearings, but this isn't so easy and not really a job for aluminium.

    Rear is much the same but two spacers
    Dave the guy is not a Bucket Racer... Most MX guys are only good at bolting on bling that fits straight out of the box.



    I would have thought a call to Talon would have resolved all of the OP's questions.

  5. #5
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Dirt bike guys do mods too. I just fitted some YZ250 clamps and SSS forks on my GasGas using the std gg wheel (diff dia axle) and brakes. Oh right.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

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