'Breaking in' a new bike

[Nurse Ratched]

Have got a 2013 Suzuki GW 250. Done 250+ k's so far.
The manual says don't go above 5500rpm for the first 800k, but 5500 rpm only takes me to 73kph. Not much good for the open roads.
The retailer says "just go for it".

What's the opinions of the experienced riders here?

[Ender EnZed]

Just go for it.

Don't hold the revs at any speed for any period of time. But otherwise go for it.

[The Baron]

I don't think you will hurt the bike. ride it.

Enjoy it.

Be safe out there.

[smmudd83_1999]

Just go for it.

Don't hold the revs at any speed for any period of time. But otherwise go for it.

Yes. There is a science to break-in periods. The reason they tell you not to thrash it as it is the safest thing to tell you from a manufacturer's point of view.
But when bedding an engine in, there is a school of thought that it's OK to use high revs. The consensus is you have to vary engine speed as quoted above (avoid constant 100km/hr motorway work) and work up to higher revs.
Also during break in period, having the bike with the oil warmed up before opening it up is even more critical than after the break in period.

[EJK]

Jesus it's only a low performance 250. Just go for it.

[nodrog:Me]

Jesus it's only a low performance 250. Just go for it.

not all of us are rich Asian's with flash motorbikes.

[pritch]

It's running in, not breaking in. That's different.

[skippa1]

You should immediately dump the factory or shop oil, make up a mix of 50%diesel oil, 48% kerosene and 2% 180grit lapping compound. Give it a good stir to mix, make enough to fill to the top of the oil filler bung.

Start the bike, warm up by fanging up and down the road just below the rev limiter being as consistent on the throttle as possible. Once warm, drop the mix.

then run on canola or coconut oil if you want it to run really lean (which is best for the motor)

it can help to take out the plugs and drop a magnet down the hole, put the plug back in and run the bike for 20min, then take tha magnets out. They just pick up any loose swarf or metal filings.

[EJK]

You should immediately dump the factory or shop oil, make up a mix of 50%diesel oil, 48% kerosene and 2% 180grit lapping compound. Give it a good stir to mix, make enough to fill to the top of the oil filler bung.

Start the bike, warm up by fanging up and down the road just below the rev limiter being as consistent on the throttle as possible. Once warm, drop the mix.

then run on canola or coconut oil if you want it to run really lean (which is best for the motor)

it can help to take out the plugs and drop a magnet down the hole, put the plug back in and run the bike for 20min, then take tha magnets out. They just pick up any loose swarf or metal filings.

Why don't you also tell him to clean brake rotors and pads with WD40?

[skippa1]

Why don't you also tell him to clean brake rotors and pads with WD40?

Because animal fat or silicon grease is better.....sheesh dont you know that shit?

[Oakie]

Why don't you also tell him to clean brake rotors and pads with WD40?

Oooh, and to prep the seat with spray on 'Lemon Pledge' or 'Armor All'.

[Swivel]

Oooh, and to prep the seat with spray on 'Lemon Pledge' or 'Armor All'.

bwahahahahaha

[AllanB]

Oooh, and to prep the seat with spray on 'Lemon Pledge' or 'Armor All'.

Don't forget the hand grips too (bloody amateurs aye).

[varminter]

I put supa glue on my grips, works good but the wife complains in bed at night. Just about the bike being there, nothing else you understand.

[rastuscat]

It's the risk of glazing the new bore that is the problem.

If you maintain the revs at any given level for too long, you'll glaze the bore.

Just make sure you keep the revs moving up and down.