New headlight tech

[Tazz]

Yeh, I'd be surprised if they counted the high beam as a separate switch that could be disconnected and used for other things is all. It'd want to be a momentary switch too, otherwise you'd have two things to switch off when you notice oncoming traffic...

Yeah, so full disclosure, you are 100% on the right thought train and there is a problem there which is being a work lamp legally speaking it shouldn't be on when you're driving It just gets around the WOF issue

Considering the size of bike gloves it's not hard to thumb two switches that are right next to each other at the same time though in the name of courtesy/not running people off the road with your brighter than the sun, retina melting lights. Even in one of my old 4x4's I'd just flick them off about a second after the stalk switch.

[Tazz]

As they would only be needed from time to time and I dont need to see possums in trees I think it could work.

Meh, whatever works for you. We obviously ride in very different areas.

While not perfect the original unit you linked is easier than bolting on extra lighting either way, which is a big bonus for it. Chur!

[bogan]

Yeah, so full disclosure, you are 100% on the right thought train and there is a problem there which is being a work lamp legally speaking it shouldn't be on when you're driving It just gets around the WOF issue

Considering the size of bike gloves it's not hard to thumb two switches that are right next to each other at the same time though in the name of courtesy/not running people off the road with your brighter than the sun, retina melting lights. Even in one of my old 4x4's I'd just flick them off about a second after the stalk switch.

Yeh, but it's a lot easier to add switches within hands reach to a 4x4 than it is a bike.

I'd like to see the what a distributed lighting system could do, I mean the fancy one is just a bunch of different LEDs in the bucket, what about doing away with the bucket and putting a bunch of LEDs on the yokes, forks, mirrors, etc...

[nzspokes]

Meh, whatever works for you. We obviously ride in very different areas.

While not perfect the original unit you linked is easier than bolting on extra lighting either way, which is a big bonus for it. Chur!

Oh I agree with you. But not going to put half the value of the bike into a flash headlight.

[Tazz]

Yeh, but it's a lot easier to add switches within hands reach to a 4x4 than it is a bike.

I'd like to see the what a distributed lighting system could do, I mean the fancy one is just a bunch of different LEDs in the bucket, what about doing away with the bucket and putting a bunch of LEDs on the yokes, forks, mirrors, etc...

Not really. How long is a piece of string type thing for both. I've owned under 10 bikes but they've all had room to mount the thin switches you can get for under 20 smackos right next to the stock cluster of them. The only annoying part is when they only slide on and you have to pull your grips and shit off to mount them

That said of you like pretty and matchy matchy, those cheap switches don't really fit the bill.

[bogan]

Not really. How long is a piece of string type thing for both. I've owned under 10 bikes but they've all had room to mount the thin switches you can get for under 20 smackos right next to the stock cluster of them. The only annoying part is when they only slide on and you have to pull your grips and shit off to mount them

That said of you like pretty and matchy matchy, those cheap switches don't really fit the bill.

Yeh I'm of a mind that those cheap switches don't fit the bill, so you end up with the cost of billet, CNC operators time, IP67 rated switches, circuits boards, relays, new wiring harness... etc etc. Easier to bung a hole in a 4x4 dash and mash a few wires together for sure

[eldog]

Oh I agree with you. But not going to put half the value of the bike into a flash headlight.

Buy a BMer the light won't be half the value of the light, unless it's a BMer one

[eldog]

Yeh I'm of a mind that those cheap switches don't fit the bill, so you end up with the cost of billet, CNC operators time, IP67 rated switches, circuits boards, relays, new wiring harness... etc etc. Easier to bung a hole in a 4x4 dash and mash a few wires together for sure

Cheap stuff only for testing....

Easier to add to existing wiring harness for signals and add extra wires for the power draw to a relay/control system to drive the LEDs.

Its good with separate LEDs makes it easier to point in the direction/area you need. I use floods rather than spots on my rig. Adjust the brightness so it's easy on the eyes. Use the high beam/pass just like normal with an on/off switch for those difficult situations when it may be frowned on.

The OP product needs some more development but is on the right path, I don't know how it could compete with std bulb setups $ wise.
Having said that see how cheap even brand name LED lights for homes are becoming vs std bulbs.

[Tazz]

Yeh I'm of a mind that those cheap switches don't fit the bill, so you end up with the cost of billet, CNC operators time, IP67 rated switches, circuits boards, relays, new wiring harness... etc etc. Easier to bung a hole in a 4x4 dash and mash a few wires together for sure

Yeah well, with the shit you build the effort shows and is worth it man

Mine, well, that light and accompanying switch in that picture was dunked into a river about 24hrs later
If it's working, to me it's good to go.

[bogan]

Yeah well, with the shit you build the effort shows and is worth it man

Mine, well, that light and accompanying switch in that picture was dunked into a river about 24hrs later
If it's working, to me it's good to go.

Mk2, the periscope LED floodlight... just splice in to the horn button

[Gremlin]

Time for a pic



Big spots are Clearwater Krista - US$650
Small spots are Denali D1 (now you've got D2, dual intensity stuff etc) - ~US$200-300
HID low beam
+30 or +50 high beam
LED strips on the handguards (battery wired for light around the bike when stopping at night)

Denalis aren't currently fitted, Kristas are angled down, but when all setup I could get reflective boards on the Taupo bypass about 2km out. It's hard finding a flat straight with boards at the end.

HID and high beam are factory wiring, Kristas were a specific order to use the existing BMW fog lamp circuit and Denali has it's own wiring loom (fed via an accessory hub). Then a relay triggers the Denali when high beam goes on. Kristas already have some tricks (when wired) that they light up to full power on high beam (also on horn if you want). Low beam and it has a dimmer for 15-85% ish... minimum power is plenty for visibility and at night too much. I used the LED strips instead, except now I've replaced the handguard with stronger ones... it's never ending

[bogan]

Time for a pic



Big spots are Clearwater Krista - US$650
Small spots are Denali D1 (now you've got D2, dual intensity stuff etc) - ~US$200-300
HID low beam
+30 or +50 high beam
LED strips on the handguards (battery wired for light around the bike when stopping at night)

Denalis aren't currently fitted, Kristas are angled down, but when all setup I could get reflective boards on the Taupo bypass about 2km out. It's hard finding a flat straight with boards at the end.

HID and high beam are factory wiring, Kristas were a specific order to use the existing BMW fog lamp circuit and Denali has it's own wiring loom (fed via an accessory hub). Then a relay triggers the Denali when high beam goes on. Kristas already have some tricks (when wired) that they light up to full power on high beam (also on horn if you want). Low beam and it has a dimmer for 15-85% ish... minimum power is plenty for visibility and at night too much. I used the LED strips instead, except now I've replaced the handguard with stronger ones... it's never ending

The man in the highvis hasn't caught fire, you need more lumens...

[Racing Dave]

I have extra lights on my R1200GSA, which needs the 60 amp alternator. Lesser bikes need not apply.

2 x 100W driving lights for straight ahead (upright) vision.

LED arrays angle upwards and outward for cornering vision.

As used on several TT2000s; not to ride faster, but to ride more safely.

The photo shows the comparison between high beam (= high + low) and all guns blazing.