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Thread: Kawasaki Ninja 300. Petrol and oil type?

  1. #16
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swivel View Post
    So anything over 750cc would benefit from the higher octane fuel?
    dont understand the difference between compression and displacement, huh?

  2. #17
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    27th November 2012 - 11:25
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    everytime someone mentions the kawasaki ninja, I get this song in my head...........

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46pg6Sjvf0M

  3. #18
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    17th February 2013 - 19:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tall Rider View Post
    Any other fluids I need to buy? Like coolant, break fluid, etc. I just realised I'll need to get some lube for the chain.

    /

    The two major things I'm thinking about it a tank bag and an exhaust. But exhausts are so expensive. I don't know if it's worth doing up this bike if (IF!) I ever upgrade to a 650.
    Don't worry about the coolant and brake fluid just yet... just focus on the oil changes and chain lube. Kero is good for cleaning that type of chain.

    I'd also skip replacing the exhaust, it's just a waste of money on the 300. I'd spend the cash on rider training or gear tbh. Have fun!

  4. #19
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    27th October 2015 - 08:04
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    Quote Originally Posted by rambaldi View Post
    Generally what it is, is high compression engines need 95/98. This is because if they don't have the high rating fuel, the mixture ignites earlier in the cycle than it should. The compression from the bore/stroke or high boost pressure is enough to ignite the fuel before the spark can. This is known as knocking, and is pretty bad for your engine.

    Generally what you will find is the higher rating fuels have more fancy and expensive additives, which can lead to a cleaner running engine in the long run. I usually run 91 in my VTR250 as that is all the self service Gull has near my place, that doesn't have ethanol. Every now and then though I splurge on some 98 from the BP across from the office to treat the engine to a bit of a clean. No idea if it actually works but the difference in price is pretty small, so I figure if I am going there to check my tyres when i fill I might as well do it.
    you can run 91 in a high compression motor is it has knock sensors, but I personally stick with a min of 95.

    Regarding this new bike, my advice would be..
    Check air pressures regularly (37F 41R) as opposed to normal bikes that are 38/42 that have wider tyres. This part is critical to your bikes handling and braking.
    oil- use sight glass as a guide only (seems silly but make sure the bikes level when you check, not on the side stand)
    clean out air filter regularly
    keep chain lubed or buy a scotoiler automatic chain luber (about $260). If you use a spray I recommend a Motul product that is white when applied and fades when its worn (visual indicator) should be done roughly every 500-1000km or after you have been riding in rain.
    buy a rad guard and light guard. this $200 could save you a hell of a lot more if you break your light or even worse get a hole through your radiator.
    Change the headlight globes to something like a Narva Untra Blue, way more light than a standard globe. You could also try fitting a LED globe, think there round a $150 each from fleabay.
    As a comfort item, change your screen to a proper double bubble type.
    Pipes, try some of the other cheaper brands. just search fleabay
    And the most important one is ........ Just ride your bloody bike and have fun

  5. #20
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    17th February 2013 - 19:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrendonF View Post
    Check air pressures regularly (37F 41R) as opposed to normal bikes that are 38/42 that have wider tyres. This part is critical to your bikes handling and braking.
    28F, 32R.

    Any higher and that bike will not handle anything apart from riding off the road on sharp corners

  6. #21
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    27th October 2015 - 08:04
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ive View Post
    28F, 32R.

    Any higher and that bike will not handle anything apart from riding off the road on sharp corners
    really?? that seems rather low. Those tyres must be skinny. I run a 120 section front and a 190 section rear and must admit I havnt had anything below 120F,180R rear in a very long time.

  7. #22
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    23rd July 2014 - 12:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swivel View Post
    So anything over 750cc would benefit from the higher octane fuel?
    See Akzle's comment. There is a difference between the engine displacement and the pressure it squishes everything to in the combustion chamber before ignition.

    As BrendonF said, with high compression engines if they have knock sensors you can run the lower fuel. But depending on how it is controlling knock you may loose out on some power.

  8. #23
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrendonF View Post
    you can run 91 in a high compression motor is it has knock sensors, but I personally stick with a min of 95.
    which work by retarding the timing,
    and we all know what retarded means...

    Moral of the story, use the correct fuel, regardless of your engines electrickery.

  9. #24
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    18th June 2015 - 12:52
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    Cog Manual?

    Hey do you have the manual? I found a link to it here Page 83 covers maintenance.

    The manual page on tire pressure:

    MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

    Tire Air Pressure (when cold)


    Wheels
    Front
    200 kPa (2.00 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
    Rear
    225 kPa (2.25 kgf/cm2, 32 psi)


    My bad for saying 42psi - it's what mine are

    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    which work by retarding the timing,
    and we all know what retarded means...

    Moral of the story, use the correct fuel, regardless of your engines electrickery.
    Never go full retard man!

  10. #25
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    17th February 2013 - 19:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrendonF View Post
    really?? that seems rather low. Those tyres must be skinny. I run a 120 section front and a 190 section rear and must admit I havnt had anything below 120F,180R rear in a very long time.
    Yeah man, they're only 17s: 110/70 and 140/70.

    I bet there are a lot of smaller bikes out there with over-inflated tyres though

  11. #26
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    23rd July 2014 - 12:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by WristTwister View Post
    Hey do you have the manual? I found a link to it here Page 83 covers maintenance.

    The manual page on tire pressure:

    MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

    Tire Air Pressure (when cold)


    Wheels
    Front
    200 kPa (2.00 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
    Rear
    225 kPa (2.25 kgf/cm2, 32 psi)


    My bad for saying 42psi - it's what mine are



    Never go full retard man!
    That is if it is the stock rubber. When I switched off the shitty Bridgestones on my bike they suggested 34/36 psi front/back (34/38 if riding 2-up). And that seems to ride better than if I let them get a bit lower.

  12. #27
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    13th March 2015 - 18:47
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    This forum is the worst place to ask about this sort of stuff.If you have to ask here it would be better for you to take it to a motorcycle shop to get the oil changed, and just use premium fuel.

  13. #28
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    27th February 2016 - 15:21
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    2014, Kawasaki Ninja 300
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    Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

    Yeah I got the manual, haven't read it yet though. Only read the user manual.

    My bike's got some nice Bridgestone BT-45's. Does that change the pressure?

  14. #29
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    3rd March 2008 - 11:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tall Rider View Post
    Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

    Yeah I got the manual, haven't read it yet though. Only read the user manual.

    My bike's got some nice Bridgestone BT-45's. Does that change the pressure?
    The manual will tell you pretty much everything you need to know to own and ride it.

    BT-45's are nice tyres, if they're the same size as the manual specifies then run the same pressure unless you're really loading the thing.
    Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987

    Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->

  15. #30
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    17th February 2013 - 19:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tall Rider View Post
    Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

    Yeah I got the manual, haven't read it yet though. Only read the user manual.

    My bike's got some nice Bridgestone BT-45's. Does that change the pressure?
    The required pressures are written on the chain-side swing-arm, as well as on the sidewall of the actual tyres...

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