Kawasaki Ninja 300. Petrol and oil type?

**Tall Rider** · 27th February 2016, 15:32

Hi everyone,

I've just bought my first bike, a 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300 and I need some advise. This is my first vehicle, so I don't really know much about petrol and oil types.

What type of petrol should I be using? And what oil should I buy?

The user manual says to use an unleaded gasoline with an Antiknock Index equal or higher than 87.

Also, any advice on things I should buy/do with the bike?

Cheers,
Tall Rider

**Akzle** · 27th February 2016, 15:57

Originally Posted by Tall Rider

What type of petrol should I be using? And what oil should I buy?

Also, any advice on things I should buy/do with the bike?

awwwwww hell yes!

20w full synth, change every 2000kms.
Never mind "petrol" on that little pocket rocket, you're going to want 150 octane avgas, most airports will sell it if you have a drum you can fill, at least bp's 98 but you may need to have your ecu reflashed and detuned, or preferably with one or two bottles of wynns octane booster in the tank.

Mods? Mate the sky is the limit, you're going to want to buy as much stuff for this little beast as you can afford. Sign your paychecks over to the local bike shop and let them guide you, you'll get it all back, with interest, when (IF!!) you ever sell that bag of fun.

**Tall Rider** · 27th February 2016, 17:20

Thanks, I'll go down to my local super cheap auto tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Akzle

you're going to want 150 octane avgas, most airports will sell it if you have a drum you can fill

Ha!

Any other fluids I need to buy? Like coolant, break fluid, etc. I just realised I'll need to get some lube for the chain.

Originally Posted by Akzle

Mods? Mate the sky is the limit, you're going to want to buy as much stuff for this little beast as you can afford. Sign your paychecks over to the local bike shop

I've already accepted that fact. Looks like it's going to be a fun hobby. The two major things I'm thinking about it a tank bag and an exhaust. But exhausts are so expensive. I don't know if it's worth doing up this bike if (IF!) I ever upgrade to a 650.

**Akzle** · 27th February 2016, 17:42

Originally Posted by Tall Rider

Any other fluids I need to buy? Like coolant, break fluid, etc. I just realised I'll need to get some lube for the chain.

I've already accepted that fact. Looks like it's going to be a fun hobby. The two major things I'm thinking about it a tank bag and an exhaust. But exhausts are so expensive. I don't know if it's worth doing up this bike if (IF!) I ever upgrade to a 650.

maaaaate, your going to want to swap out the indicator fluid for some 3w aswell. Probably grab a tube of elbow grease too.

The exhaust willl be well worth it as the oem is restrictive so taking it off with give you another 50rwhp

it would be sad to see you give up the 300, you'd be surprised if it cant keep up with the bigger ones (650)
but if you ever do want to, i'd recomend hyosung

**Moi** · 27th February 2016, 19:24

Don't take too much notice of Akzle... he likes to tease people and pull their leg... but then he sudden comes out with something really sensible and appropriate... it's knowing the difference...

Most laugh and chuckle... a few get really rough on him - I suspect they wanted the job he got: Village Idiot... the one that the rest of the village cares about... even when he's being a right PITA...

**caspernz** · 27th February 2016, 20:00

An AKI of 87 equates to our 91, so go with that. As for oil, check the manual but it's likely something like 5W40 and as long as you buy 4 stroke motorcycle oil you'll be fine. In practical terms a Ninja 300 is like an oversized lawnmower, so low stressed.

Google a few things you're keen to learn. Tyre pressures, chain tension would be two key items for starters...

**Tall Rider** · 27th February 2016, 21:35

Thanks guys, need all the help I can get.

**WristTwister** · 27th February 2016, 22:03

Oil level - you may have a window by the engine that lets you check this. Also, if the bike is brand new, you won't need to change the oil as it will get changed with your first service, but avoid synthetic if it is new, the manuals advise it.
Brake fluid levels (front and back)
Tire-pressure - usually between 36-42 psi but check your manual. I have a tire-pressure meter keyring that's been useful, and a tire-tread depth tester.
Chain lubricant - Make sure you get the right lubricant for your chain too. If you go to one of the Kawasaki dealers in Wellington, they'll know.
Petrol - I'd suggest Caltex 91 with techron because it cleans your engine without paying more for 95

**nzspokes** · 28th February 2016, 06:53

Originally Posted by WristTwister

Petrol - I'd suggest Caltex 91 with techron because it cleans your engine without paying more for 95

Tried that, motor still looks filthy. I should complain.

**Pound** · 28th February 2016, 11:27

Originally Posted by Moi

Don't take too much notice of Akzle... he likes to tease people and pull their leg... but then he sudden comes out with something really sensible and appropriate... it's knowing the difference...

Say what you like about Akzle, but he talks far more sense than most people give him credit for, and needless to say, the comments he makes are fucking hilarious

**neels** · 28th February 2016, 11:45

I would suggest you go to this link https://www.kawasaki.com/ServiceManu...nual/EX300AES# and download the manual, it will tell you everything you need to know.

For instance page 95 tells you to use 10W40 mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic oil, in my experience semi synthetic is probably worth the extra money, full synthetic not so much unless you're thrashing it everywhere.

Should run fine on 91, but worth running a tank or two of 91 and then 95 and see if it makes any difference, sometimes the fuel consumption will be better on 95 and actually costs less overall.

**Swivel** · 28th February 2016, 22:28

I was told to use 95 it suppose to be more responsive and has a longer shelf life then 91. I use 10W40 semi synthetic.

**WristTwister** · 28th February 2016, 22:44

Originally Posted by Swivel

I was told to use 95 it suppose to be more responsive and has a longer shelf life then 91. I use 10W40 semi synthetic.

Mechanic types will be able to explain it better, but some compression ratio thing-ma-jig probably means a 300 won't perform better with 95. I heard that 95 gives you more milage, someone might be able to confirm that.

**rambaldi** · 29th February 2016, 14:04

Originally Posted by WristTwister

Mechanic types will be able to explain it better, but some compression ratio thing-ma-jig probably means a 300 won't perform better with 95. I heard that 95 gives you more milage, someone might be able to confirm that.

Generally what it is, is high compression engines need 95/98. This is because if they don't have the high rating fuel, the mixture ignites earlier in the cycle than it should. The compression from the bore/stroke or high boost pressure is enough to ignite the fuel before the spark can. This is known as knocking, and is pretty bad for your engine.

Generally what you will find is the higher rating fuels have more fancy and expensive additives, which can lead to a cleaner running engine in the long run. I usually run 91 in my VTR250 as that is all the self service Gull has near my place, that doesn't have ethanol. Every now and then though I splurge on some 98 from the BP across from the office to treat the engine to a bit of a clean. No idea if it actually works but the difference in price is pretty small, so I figure if I am going there to check my tyres when i fill I might as well do it.

**Swivel** · 1st March 2016, 03:18

Originally Posted by rambaldi

Generally what it is, is high compression engines need 95/98. This is because if they don't have the high rating fuel, the mixture ignites earlier in the cycle than it should. The compression from the bore/stroke or high boost pressure is enough to ignite the fuel before the spark can. This is known as knocking, and is pretty bad for your engine.

Generally what you will find is the higher rating fuels have more fancy and expensive additives, which can lead to a cleaner running engine in the long run. I usually run 91 in my VTR250 as that is all the self service Gull has near my place, that doesn't have ethanol. Every now and then though I splurge on some 98 from the BP across from the office to treat the engine to a bit of a clean. No idea if it actually works but the difference in price is pretty small, so I figure if I am going there to check my tyres when i fill I might as well do it.

So anything over 750cc would benefit from the higher octane fuel?