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Thread: Show us your drz400sm

  1. #16
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    Fuck it. Bought it anyway. $300NZD for the full system.

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  2. #17
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    What's a good replacement handlebar for the 400SM? These stock ones fell pretty horrid.

  3. #18
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    KX450 Motard/Flat Track KTM125SX H2R
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlangMasterJ View Post
    What's a good replacement handlebar for the 400SM? These stock ones fell pretty horrid.
    renthal Jimmy Button Bend, tallest they do, the DRZ always had low bars,

  4. #19
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    renthal Jimmy Button Bend, tallest they do, the DRZ always had low bars,
    Cheers Scott. I went with the RM High bar by Artrax plus some 7/8" to 1 1/8" adapters. Should be a good height.

    While you're here do you know where I can find a 400E header preferably used? Assuming it's compatible with the 400SM inlet.

  5. #20
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlangMasterJ View Post
    Cheers Scott. I went with the RM High bar by Artrax plus some 7/8" to 1 1/8" adapters. Should be a good height.

    While you're here do you know where I can find a 400E header preferably used? Assuming it's compatible with the 400SM inlet.
    not sure where you would find one of those, try Bailey Motorcycles in Hawera, used to be a good source for enduro stuff,

  6. #21
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    I've just ordered an FMF powerbomb knock off stainless steel header from Aliexpress. Appx. $100NZD. We'll see how that goes.


    Installed my RM High bars, 7/8" to 1 1/8" mounts, grips and pivot levers today. I had to move the ignition from where it was mounted on the bar mounts to beside the speedo/tacho. It's a bit of a pain to get to but looks tidy. Also had to drill a couple of 5mm holes in the bars for the locating lugs for both the kill switch and indicator cluster.

    Now the stock bar ends (which are some kind of dark matter because they weigh a pound a piece) are they really necessary? I'm assuming they're there to reduce movement/vibration?


    Looking tidier. I have a few more bits and bobs in mind. A KLX450R headlight, LED indicators and some under bar mirrors.


  7. #22
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    23rd February 2007 - 08:47
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    Suzuki gsxr 600k7. Hayabusa K9 DRZ250 K
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    The heavy bar ends help kill vibes. Let us know how the header works out.

  8. #23
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    Sheeeeit I didn't realise how much of a change swapping the bars, levers and throttle tube out would make. It turned a bike that felt sluggish and boat like into something that a motard should feel like. Now I can ride it aggressively and flick it about far easier.

    I just can't wait to get the better flowing system on it.

  9. #24
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    Alright another noob question. I got my 400E header today now does the midpipe slip inside this or go over it?


  10. #25
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    16th February 2009 - 21:24
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    How you have it in the picture is correct.
    flashg

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by flashg View Post
    How you have it in the picture is correct.
    Cheers it just seemed really tight. Is it common practice to have to open that end up further to push the header in?

  12. #27
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    25th December 2008 - 10:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlangMasterJ View Post
    Cheers it just seemed really tight. Is it common practice to have to open that end up further to push the header in?
    Normally this connection is relatively loose. I.e you could pull them apart by hand just by wiggling and twisting the two pieces

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangere View Post
    Normally this connection is relatively loose. I.e you could pull them apart by hand just by wiggling and twisting the two pieces
    That's about as far as I could get it by hand in that picture.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangere View Post
    Normally this connection is relatively loose. I.e you could pull them apart by hand just by wiggling and twisting the two pieces
    This has also been my experience.
    It appears the "swayging" machine used to expand the pipe is worn or not adjusted properly. Some exhaust places have these machines. Measure the pipe and make some phone calls. It's a two minute job with the right equipment. Should cost fuck all. Take both pipes with you.
    flashg

  15. #30
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    22nd April 2005 - 21:18
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    Thanks to the guys down at TSS Red Baron the system has been installed. Sounds great.


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