Man cave fit out....

[george formby]

I've done a commercial kitchen floor with 2 pack epoxy stylee paint. Most impressed I was, eventually. Perp is vital and application was difficult, it thickens very quickly, well, the stuff I used did.

When it had dried properly over a few days it was really tough. Withstood all the kitchen cleaners, oven cleaners, hot fat, fat chefs and dropped, pointy, heavy things. Slick as an eel when greasy or soapy, though. Add some nice silica sand to it.

Dunno how big the area is but decent quality lino is hard to beat, relatively easy to lay, warmer than paint and repairable in high traffic areas. Fixing damaged paint is a major, never quite works.

Plenty of good, second hand, lino offcuts are available and can be welded together.

Just a thought.

[husaberg]

Stage one.... looking at painted workshop floor.

anyone used this stuff, bunnings have it http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...or-coating-kit

If you want to paint it yourself just use dulux durapave and do add some sand.
http://www.dulux.co.nz/products/dulu...?product=14770
I would recommend getting some offcuts of Vinyl, easier on the legs and knees plus warmer.
You can have separate areas for welding grinding etc.

[Night Falcon]

whatever coating you slap on make sure you get the concrete surface prepped. Acid wash is best. If ya got dodgy knees a small bit of carpet makes it more comfy and it stops screws and stuff from bouncing into oblivion.....just don't use shag-pile

[Swoop]

... we used the resene floor paint. the concrete we coated was probably laid in the early 70's.

2-pack is nice.
A basic workshop needs only resene "Lumbersider" paint for the floor though. Pro painters recommend it and we did a large workshop which has lots of thoroughfare on it. It lasted years!
For a home garage it would do at least 15 yrs.

Nuke the surface first and prep before painting, as always.

[granstar]

Always found a good slab of old carpet is good for the oil change area, and the Triumph parking area (er... same area), as it soaks up spills....leaks, and is easier on the knees when changing filters etc.
Just gotta watch it don't get set on fire when welding nearby, heh done that a few times.

[russd7]

2-pack is nice.
A basic workshop needs only resene "Lumbersider" paint for the floor though. Pro painters recommend it and we did a large workshop which has lots of thoroughfare on it. It lasted years!
For a home garage it would do at least 15 yrs.

Nuke the surface first and prep before painting, as always.

naaa lumbersider is cheap shit and i wouldn't use on floor to slippery, (i paint with it regularly), the resene 2pac that we used on the floor was not cheap but very effective, but as has been alluded to many times in this thread, Prep is the key, we had a big patch of badly oil stained concrete that i scrubbed a lot with grease and oil remover, i didn't get it all out but it hasn't lifted yet

[russd7]

Always found a good slab of old carpet is good for the oil change area, and the Triumph parking area (er... same area), as it soaks up spills....leaks, and is easier on the knees when changing filters etc.
Just gotta watch it don't get set on fire when welding nearby, heh done that a few times.

keeps the food clean for the dogs when dropped by drunken louts also

[Swoop]

It has just occurred to me that we have not had the excellent knowledge of Miss Cassina in this thread, offering her expertise on the subject.
Presumably it would involve concepts not envisioned by thinking human beings. Perhaps using turtle shells to collect drips of waste oil along with covering the floor with hemp?

[george formby]

Speaking of carpet, it's not black and white.



I think having a bike on a rug is a lovely thing.

Luckily I have a carpet fitting mate who is more than happy to drop off some uplift. Make sure you only get wool, it rots beautifully. Chuck a bit under the bike and off you are.

When it gets manky lay it over some wandering dew or wild ginger, kill the weeds, let it rot and boom, compost and worms.

Chuck a newly requisitioned bit under the bike.

Once anything goes through carpet enough to mess up the floor I replace the bit of carpet.

So, yeah. It's an optional luxury which helps look after your snazzy floor, keeps your knees warm, is fully disposable and biodegradable. It can also come in some lovely colours.

Your nuts don't bounce far on carpet, either. The difference it makes to the time spent under shelves and reaching under bikes is astonishing. "Oh, look, the bolts beside me knee. Astonishing".

[BMWST?]

Speaking of carpet, it's not black and white.



I think having a bike on a rug is a lovely thing.

Luckily I have a carpet fitting mate who is more than happy to drop off some uplift. Make sure you only get wool, it rots beautifully. Chuck a bit under the bike and off you are.

When it gets manky lay it over some wandering dew or wild ginger, kill the weeds, let it rot and boom, compost and worms.

Chuck a newly requisitioned bit under the bike.

Once anything goes through carpet enough to mess up the floor I replace the bit of carpet.

So, yeah. It's an optional luxury which helps look after your snazzy floor, keeps your knees warm, is fully disposable and biodegradable. It can also come in some lovely colours.

Your nuts don't bounce far on carpet, either. The difference it makes to the time spent under shelves and reaching under bikes is astonishing. "Oh, look, the bolts beside me knee. Astonishing".

And the latte cup doesnt break when you drop it on the carpet.

[GazzaH]

I must have exceptionally bouncy nuts.

[clint640]

I called up Altex in Tauranga & followed their recommendation, which was a 2 part sealer undercoat & a 2 part topcoat. Came up good & seems pretty durable, been down almost a year now.



The concrete was a couple of years old but was a good finish & really clean, Altex said just sand it, I've got a big random orbit sander so I gave it a buff with that. Made a mixer for the drill to blend the epoxy, rollered it on. Cost about $800 for the 7x9m & I have a bit left over for touch ups. The bikes do get parked on carpet though, a corner of the shed is partitioned & curtained off for toy storage to keep stuff tidy during dusty dirty goings on in the business end of the shed.

Water based paints will lift off under hot tyres. In my previous shed I used Dulux Aquatread which did that & it was getting pretty worn out in the high foot traffic areas too after 8 years. I didn't have the budget for epoxy at the time though & it was hugely nicer than bare concrete.

Cheers
Clint

[F5 Dave]

Well Clint, that looks real clean and I see you have a reasonable collection of hammers, and even seven spanners stored carefully out of harms way.

Bit short of bike posters or as when I posted a pic of my garage some chick mentioned; where are all the nudey pics?
I've since found some tasteful `fairing off` studio shots. I do like an exposed power valve or bulging polished expansion chamber.

[R650R]

I called up Altex in Tauranga & followed their recommendation, which was a 2 part sealer undercoat & a 2 part topcoat. Came up good & seems pretty durable, been down almost a year now.


The concrete was a couple of years old but was a good finish & really clean, Altex said just sand it, I've got a big random orbit sander so I gave it a buff with that. Made a mixer for the drill to blend the epoxy, rollered it on. Cost about $800 for the 7x9m & I have a bit left over for touch ups. The bikes do get parked on carpet though, a corner of the shed is partitioned & curtained off for toy storage to keep stuff tidy during dusty dirty goings on in the business end of the shed.

Water based paints will lift off under hot tyres. In my previous shed I used Dulux Aquatread which did that & it was getting pretty worn out in the high foot traffic areas too after 8 years. I didn't have the budget for epoxy at the time though & it was hugely nicer than bare concrete.

Cheers
Clint

Nice setup clint.

[george formby]

So which colour for the walls did you eventually go with, Clint?